町興し+汗=戸倉上山田ルネサンス Civic Improvement + sweat = Togura Kamiyamada's Renaissance

March 13, 2009: Uncategorized

町興し工事

日本中の市町村は「町興し」を良く話します。話すだけではなく、実際動くのはなかなか難しいです。行政はやる気があるかどうかはとに書くとして、予算がない。民間の皆はやる気があるけど、メインの仕事もあるから時間がない;お金がもっとないという現状です。
その難しい状態の中で、この戸倉上山田温泉は去年の10月に足湯が出来て、沢山の体験コースがそろえて、そして本通の中心な場所にあるこの建物の様子は感動的です。「今、工事現場じゃないか」と思われるかもしれませんが、それがポイントです。工事しているのです。大正時代の建物の顔を改造している作業です。亀清旅館のヒバの露天風呂の周りを手伝ってくれた村越さんが大工の仕事をしています。県と市と民間がお金を出し合って、旅館の先輩方がコネを使って、その全部を上手く結びました。先輩達の管理、皆の出し合ったお金、そして地元の大工さんの才能、皆の努力のお蔭です。自慢できる和風外観になりそうです。窓に格子、壁にしっくい、日本の伝統的な造りです。ひょっとしたら、周りの建物の皆が真似して外観を和風に改造したくなるかもしれません。
"Civic Improvement" is a term that gets batted around a lot. But it's a lot easier to talk about than to actually do. Government officials don't have the time or energy, nor the budget. Local individuals may have the energy, but not the time as they have full-time jobs to deal with, and they have even less of a budget. Despite all of these difficulties, Togura Kamiyamada is seeing a renaissance of sorts with the building of a footbath last fall, the creation of all sorts of programs for visitors to participate in, and now, the refurbishing of Sarashina-kan. This historical inn, built in the Taisho era, is getting a full face lift, complete with wood grills over the windows and "shikkui" plaster exterior. Perhaps after it is complete, the neighboring buildings will even consider remodelling their exteriors in a more traditional Japanese fashion.

戸倉上山田の町興し「カラコロ」会のHPはこちらClick here for the Kara Koro civic improvement group's website.



traditional architectural features


Profile in English

March 12, 2009: Uncategorized

Tyler with Mari and daughter Misaki in front of Kamesei's entrance

(以前から日本語のプロフィルがありましたが、英語が漏れていました。My profile had only been in Japanese, so here it is in English.)

Hajimemashite. My name is Tyler Lynch. Welcome to my "American Innkeeper in Japan" Blog. I have been enjoying running a ryokan here in Nagano, as well as writing this blog, and hope you have fun reading it. Here is a little background about me:

I was born, reared and raised in Seattle, Washington, USA. Seattle, being a port town, has a long history of interaction with Japan. In the past, it was mostly forest products and fish. Now its Boeing and Microsoft related. When I was in high school, my dad got me a job in the shipping industry dealing with the Japanese trading houses. That, along with influence from the homestay students my parents hosted over the years, led me to study Japanese language in college. Learning the language got me interested in Japan's culture and its way of thinking, which led to an exchange study trip to Kobe. That experience rocked my world, the world I had known unitl then.

After graduating the University of Washington with a major in International Studies, I wanted to improve my Japanese language skills more, which meant living here. I ended up doing an Eikaiwa gig in Nagano. The prefecture's beautiful nature, with the green mountains and all the onsens, really charmed me. When I met the daughter of an onsen ryokan, I invited myself over for a bath, and we hit it off from there!

I ended up dragging Mari back to Seattle where we got married and lived for 11 years. I worked for a trading company dealing with, among many things, shipping produce to Japan. Meanwhile, I kept thinking about how nice Kamesei Ryokan was, with its spacious lobby and warm wood construction, relaxing gardens, watari-roka passageway leading to the detached guestrooms, and (of course) the hot spring mineral baths. Mari, who had seen how hard her parents had to work, wanted nothing to do with it. However, after starting to raise kids, she came to want to return home. Her mother was wanting to retire but with no one to take on the inn, she was going to tear it down and turn it into a parking lot.

We decided not to let that happen.

In the fall of 2005, we moved here to start helping out. People may think that shipping onions and running an inn are too different, but I assure you they are basically the same. As an onion shipper, my job's main purpose was to make the customer happy. That is the essence of a ryokan -- making the guests happy. It's just with here, we get comments back from the guests like, "Thanks to staying at your inn, I feel as if my body's batteries were recharged." I never got feedback like that from my onion customers.

I am fortunate to have this opportunity to work here at Kamesei, and to be able to provide a relaxing experience for our guests. Flipping futons and making outdoor baths is only half of my job. The other half is working with the other innkeepers to make our town more attractive to visitors, and with people throughout the prefecture sharing Nagano with travellers from overseas. This blog is a chronicle of my endeavors, offered for your enjoyment. Yoroshiku.






たぬきの新しい酒瓶Kamesei's Tanuki has a new Sake Bottle

March 11, 2009: Uncategorized

亀清の中庭のたぬきは昔から酒の瓶と一緒に立ていました。当館ではせっかっく姨捨正宗の酒を扱っているから、その便があればいいナと思っていました。打ちの担当者に頼んでみましたので探してくれました。蔵からこの格好いい瓶が出てきたそうでし、今日、持ってきてくれました。喜んで、たぬきの隣に飾っておきました。
Most establishments that sell sake in Japan have a tanuki statue. He's kind of a good luck charm, and is usually made holding a ledger and a bottle of sake. The tanuki here in our Naka-niwa garden has always had a sake bottle at his side, but I thought it would be most appropriate if the bottle were from our local sake brewer, Obasute Masamune. I asked our rep, and he found this cool bottle in their warehouse and brought it for us. So I proudly displayed it next to our tanuki.





野鳥の歌といい文章 Bird Chirping and Good Copy

March 10, 2009: Uncategorized

今、亀清旅館の新しいパンフを作っている最中です。英語・日本語の両方にし、新しい露天風呂の写真を載せたりする予定です。

今、亀清旅館の新しいパンフを作っている最中です。英語・日本語の両方にし、新しい露天風呂の写真を載せたりする予定です。
広告会社と打ち合わせしている中で、文章は一番悩んでいます。英語の文章は私が自信を持っているので書いていますが、日本語の文章は困っています。私の日本語が十分じゃないけど、妻とかは自信ないようです。
プローに注文する手もあるので確かにそのは格好いい文章になります。但し、問題はそういうプローの人亀清に来ることはなく、書く言葉は亀清の独特の事より、どの宿でもあってはまるような言葉になっちゃう。
亀清の現在のHPは野鳥の鳴き声のことから始まる。今朝も起きたら鳥の鳴き声はあちらこちらから聞こえました。亀清は庭が多いのでそのお陰で鳥は沢山来ます。
でも、おそらく、どの宿でもそうかもしれません。そのHPの文章は恐らく、どの宿でも使えるかもしれません。
今回のパンフは文章で亀清の味をもっと出したいですね。まあ、いい結果を出せれるようにがんばります。
Currently, I am working on Kamesei Ryokan's new brochure. We are updating it to include English text as well as pictures of the new outdoor baths.
As far as the text, I am confident about the English, but my Japanese isn't good enough for something as official as our brochure. Unfortunately, none of the Japanese here are confident either.
so that means we'll have the ad agency hire a copy writer. They are good, but the pro writer will never have been to Kamesei, and his or her writing would probably be something that could apply not just to Kamesei, but to any inn.
This morning, I woke up to the sound of birds chirping. It reminded me of our website. It starts out with Japanese text about the songs of the wildbirds in our garden. Now, our inn does have more gardens than most, and as a result a happy number of birds, but text like that could just as well apply to any inn, not just Kamsesei.
I'm hoping to put together some uniquely Kamesei text for our brochure.





外国人向きのおもてなしは。。。無し?Japan's "Omotenashi" for foreigners not so Welcoming

March 9, 2009: Uncategorized

私の憧れているデビトさんの情報で、先週の新聞に出た:国道交通省の調査によると「国際観光ホテル整備法」に登録している旅館やホテル1560施設の約40%が外国語によるサービスを行っていなくさらに約23%が「行っていないし、行う予定もない」だそうです。この法に登録すれば、固定資産税の軽減などあるそうです。
私もよく分かりませんが、長野のインバウンドの大先輩と相談したら、
我が旅館の世界の中で大体3つの協会に登録している:
日観連 www.nikkanren.or.jp 4000施設 (亀清も)
国観連 www.ryokan.or.jp 全国の55,000件の内の1300幹
全旅連 www.yadonet.ne.jp 残りの4700幹?
1940年代にJRのきかけであるレベルの制限を越えた旅館の指定が今の日観連になった。そして、「国際レベル」と言うステータスの為に、国観連もできた。両方共は国道交通省の下に入っている。
全旅連は厚生労働省の下に入っていて、マーケティングより衛生関係の目的だそうです。
そして、上記の「国際観光ホテル整備法」の登録している1560施設の旅館の分は恐らく国観連の事だと思います。「国際」というのは外国人を受けているより、日本人のお客さんにアピールためだとのことが多く、なおかつ税金の割引は会費で消されているらしいです。
My buddy Debito-san posted some interesting info from last week's newspapers: according to an MLITT survey, of the 1560 hotels and ryokans registered with the Law for Improving International Tourism Hotels, approx. 40% don't provide foreign language service, and a further 23% had no intention of doing so either.
I checked in with my "Inbound" senpai here in northern Nagano, and found out the following:
Debito-san, Thanks as always for the great info.

I conferred with my Inbound "senpai" here in Nagano, and offer the following possible explanation of why inns registered as "international" aren't actually international.

In the ryokan universe, there are 3 main organizations with whom we typically register:
Nikkanren -- Japan Ryokan Assoc. (www.nikkanren.or.jp; 4000 members, including yours truly)
Kokkanren -- Japan Ryokan & Hotel Assoc. (www.ryokan.or.jp, boasts 1300 members of a total of 55,000 ryokans in Japan)
Zenryoren -- All Japan Assoc. (www.yadonet.ne.jp; the remaining 49700 inns?)
Back in the 40's, JR formed what became the Japan Ryokan Assoc. based on accreditating inns that met a minimum level of requirements.
Then a group of snazzier inns formed the Kokusai (=International) Kankou Kyoukai aka Kokkanren supposedly for a more international level of service, but in actuality mainly for a more cosmopolitan image. Both organizations are now under MLITT.
The Ministry of Health, Labor and Welfare overseas the Zenryoren, which is focused more on cleanliness issues than marketing.
The Kokkanren inns are likely the ryokan component of the above-mentioned 1560 establishments, and 40% is likely a low figure. That's because they use the international image as status in attracting domestic guests, not because they provide service to foreigners. And any tax benefits are offset by high membership fees.
FYI, there are groups of ryokans actively working to provide better service to guests from overseas, such as
Japanese Inn Group http://www.jpinn.com/
Welcome Inns http://www.itcj.or.jp/
Our inn recently joined the former. I thought it would be a slam dunk, as I am 6'7", oops, a native English speaker. But when they came to inspect, they pointed out we had no English sign out front of our inn. (Got that fixed right away!) My point is, they are serious about serving foreigners.

Unlike the Kokkanren inns.




戸倉上山田温泉の若旦那伝統 Togura Kamiyamada's innkeepers -- one of our traditions

March 8, 2009: Uncategorized

戸倉上山田温泉の旅館青年部員として、本来なら私は地元の冠着太鼓に入るべきでした。個人的に太鼓は大好きだし、ものすごく憧れている。但し、問題は2点ほどございます:私の音痴のことと、太鼓の練習の時間はいつも布団引きの時間と重なっちゃうためになかなか行けない。代わりに、上山田神楽保存会に入らせて頂いています。横笛をやっておりまして、有難いところは歌の分からない部分は格好を付けるだけとのは可能です。(笑い)
さて、この温泉の太鼓に憧れている理由はもう1つがあります。メンバーの誰かが結婚すれば、披露宴で太鼓の演奏が必ずあると、お聞きしました。今日は有田屋旅館の息子の結婚式で私がやっと、この有名な習慣を自分の目で見れて、というより、自分の体で感じれました。今までは冠着太鼓を祭りの時しか見ていなかった。そういう時は長い時間をかけて演奏するので最後まで打てるように力は多少抜けるそうです。今日は本当に特別でした。短い演奏のうちで、皆が一生懸命、死にそうになるほど力強く打ちました。新郎の喜一郎君も格好よく打ちました。
私は三年前にこの温泉に引越ししてきて、この伝統を始めて体験しました。もう、忘れられない。
As an innkeeper here at Togura Kamiyamada Onsen, by rights I should be a member of the Kamuriki Taiko group. However, I am not, for 2 reasons: I have no musical talent; and the practices are always when I'm busy flipping futons for our guests. But I love taiko, and part of me still wants to join. Instead, I joined the Okagura shishi lion dance troupe, and have been practicing the flute.
Anyways, one of the reasons I really look up to the taiko guys is their tradition of performing at each others wedding parties. Today, I finally got the opportunity to witness this. Kiichiro-kun from Arita-ya Ryokan got married today, and sure enough, Kamuriki Taiko was there to mark the occasion. Every time I've seen them perform in the past, it was at festivals where they play for an extended time, and have to pace themselves to be able to play until the end. Not tonight. This time they went full out, and gave it everything, intensely packed into three explosive songs. Even Kiichiro got into the action. It was absolutely incredible -- I will never forget it.

有田屋さんのHPはこちらClick here for the website of Arita-ya Ryokan


Kamuriki Taiko at Kiichiro's wedding


芸者三味線とセッション Jammin' with a geisha

March 7, 2009: Uncategorized

impromptu shishi lion

普段は「どのネタにしょうか?」という日があるけど、今
日は「ブログに何を書こうか」とちょっと悩んだ日です。過去の経験では、こういう時は気をつけるべき。今日も結局そうでした。
お客様の宴会で挨拶をしたら、なぜか何の楽器ができるかと聞かれました。あほみたいに、しし笛と答えておきました。そのお客さんは芸者さんが二人を呼びました。三味線のベトランの春駒さんと踊れる千姫さん。宴会の途中で私が笛を吹きに呼ばれました。そして、一人のお客さんが座布団・酒瓶、と帯でできた獅子で踊って、もう一人は太鼓、春駒さんは三味線、私が獅子笛で1曲をやりました。私はまだまだ獅子笛の初心者なのでいつも前の人の指を真似しながらやっている。一人じゃ。。。まあ、何とかなりました。お客さんも喜んでくれた。(酒のお陰?)
Normally, my biggest problem in writing this blog is choosing which among the interesting things from the day to write about. Today was unusual in that I was starting to get worried about not having anything to write about. That's usually when something funky happens, and today was no exception.
When I made my official "greeting" at one of the banquets, for some reason I was asked what musical instrument I play, and I replied the shishi flute. I have to learn to shut my big mouth! That particular group had requested some geisha for entertainment, including the shamisen veteran Harugoma-san. Partway through the banquet, I was called back to play the flute. We ended up jamming, with one guest doing a dance with a shishi made up of a seat cushion, sake bottles, and an obi, another customer played the taiko drums, Harugoma-san on the shamisen, and me on the flute. I have to be honest: normally when I play the flute there is another member in front of me and I follow his finger movements. So I was way out of my league to play flute for those guests, but they seemed to enjoy it (maybe thanks to the sake?).



Harugoma-san and Senhime-san w/ guest taiko player


veteran shamisen


大学卒業生、おめでとう!Congrats to the Grads

March 6, 2009: Uncategorized

Husky Hakama?

うちの妻の従妹の娘が袴を穿いたままで顔を出してくれた。近くに住んでいるけど、遠い親戚だ。アメリカは大学卒業が大体6月ですが、日本では今が卒業の時期です。一番驚いたのは、Saoriさんの袴の色は私の大学の色:紫と金。格好いい!
ということで、さおりさんと他の卒業生の皆さん、おめでとうございます!これからはスクール・オブ・ライフ(人生学校)でがんばってください。
My wife's cousin's daughter stopped by today. She lives close, but is a distant relative. (Sorry, bad joke.) Anyways, she was wearing a hakama, which until now I had associated with martial arts. Her college graduation celebration was later in the day, and she was dressed up for that. Back in the States, June is when everyone graduates, but here in Japan, it is March. What surprised me the most was the coloring of her hakama: purple and gold. Those are the colors of the University of Washington, my alma mater.





雛人形はどんな思い出が付いている? What kind of memories do people have of Hina Dolls?

March 5, 2009: Uncategorized

亀清の今年の雛

亀清の今年の雛人形はこちらです。3日からロビーに飾られた。この辺は旧暦でやりますので、3月3日から4月3日まで飾る習慣です。
毎年、隣の坂城町の「坂木宿ふるさと歴史館」でこの時期に古雛まつりが行います。今年の祭りは3月20日(金)から5月6日(水)までの予定です。雛人形研究家の田口先生は先日に公演しに来ましたのでまた亀清に泊まってくらました。その先生曰く、北信が東京と京都の中心になるので両方の雛人形の文化が流れてきて、独特なスタイルになっているそうです。本人は元々西洋人形の研究から始まって、途中から雛人形に切り替えたと、美咲ちゃんがGrandmaからもらった人形と遊んでいる姿を見たときに話してくれました。この人形はGrandmaの子供のころに本人が良く遊んだらしいです。自分の娘に遊んでもらえるようにずっと持っていたが、私と弟2人で、息子切でした。孫娘を待っていたら、アメリカからうんと遠い日本で生まれたこの美咲ちゃん。それでも、この大事な、思いで深い人形をうちの美咲ちゃんにくれました。Grandma Judiの記念でJuちゃんと呼んでいます。

雛人形もこの感じで「思い」が付くのでしょうか?

March 3rd is the Hina Doll Festival in Japan. Households throughout the country put out these Hina doll sets for their daughters to enjoy. Most of the inns here at Togura Kamiyamada Onsen also have elaborate Hina sets on display, including the 8-level one at Kamiyamada Hotel. Kamesei's set this year is this relatively simple one. Our daughter Misaki seems happy with it.

At the Sakaki-juku Furusato Historical Hall in neighboring Sakaki Town, every year they put on an Antique Hina Doll Festival. This year's event is scheduled to run from 20-March (Fri) to 06-May (Wed). They often have Taguchi-sensei, a Hina Doll scholar, come for a talk, and this year he once again stayed at Kamesei. According to the sensei, northern Nagano is at a sort of crossroads between Tokyo and Kyoto, and our local Hina dolls were influenced by both sides for a style unique to this area. Taguchi-sensei actually started out researching Western doll culture. He mentioned that when he saw our Misaki playing with her Ju-chan doll. Ju-chan is named after Grandma Judi who kept the doll from when she played with it as a child. Grandma initially kept it to give to her daughter, but for better or worse she only had my two brothers and I. So she waited for a granddaughter. She finally got one in Misaki, but here in far-away Japan. Even so, Grandma still gave Misaki her treasured doll.

I wonder if Hina dolls have such memories attached to them.

坂城古雛まつりの詳しくはこちらClick here for details on Sakaki's Antique Hina Doll Festival

戸倉上山田温泉の亀清旅館のHPはこちらClick here for the website of Kamesei Ryokan in Nagano.





客室のインフォーメーションの本の更新Updating the Information Books in the GuestRooms

March 4, 2009: Uncategorized

千曲市の観光課は市の観光ガイドブックを更新した。一部は雑誌っぽいでとってもよくできました。亀清の客室にインフォメーションの本が置いてあるのでこの新しいガイドブックを入れさしておきました。この本は亀清のストーリーや上山田温泉の由来などいろんな情報が日本語・英語の両方で集まっていますのでお泊りになる方はぜひ、目を通して御覧なさい。
Chikuma City just updated their Sightseeing Guidebook (Japanese). The front section is like a magazine -- very chic. I went ahead and put copies of the new guidebook in the Information Books we have in each of the guestrooms. These Info books that we put together have all kinds of background information on our inn and the town, in both English and Japanese. So for people who come and stay, feel free to take a look at the Info book.