Misaki helping with the snowman
久しぶりの大雪！
しかし、上雪ですからすぐ溶けそう…
溶ける前に雪だるまを作ろう！
Snow! It's been a while since we've gotten so much of the white stuff.
But this snow is 'kami-yuki', meaning it came from Tokyo and the Pacific Ocean side of Japan.
That means it will melt away quickly, as opposed to snow coming from the Sea of Japan side which tends to stick around a lot longer.
Come on Misaki, let's build a snowman before the snow melts away!
洋風の雪だるま
Ganshoin -- home to Hokusai's Phoenix Painting and Inspiration for Issa
小布施に行った時に、せっかくだったから岩松院に行ってみました。北斎の鳳凰の絵や、一茶の俳句で知られていますから、楽しみにしていました。
北斎の絵は本当に畳に寝って見るのか？
一茶はどういう所からカエル合戦を見たのか？
色々と興味津々でした。
そして、見事に受付が方は熱心だし、ものすごく詳しかったのでとっても良かった。私が聞きたかった質問をしっかり答えてくれた上で、なお詳しい事を色々と教えてくれました。
一番驚いたのは、北斎の絵はずっと見えているけど、色は薄くならないのかと心配していましたが、北斎は絵を塗った時に、色の変更現象を計算していて、書いてから２００年先で一番鮮やかになる様に作ったと、受付の方が教えてくれました。
という事は、完成してから１６０年がたっていますので、これから４０年後にこの絵が一番良いそうです。４０年後という事は私が８０歳… その時に又来なっきゃ！
While at Obuse the other day, I also went to see Ganshoin Temple. It is famous for a ceiling painting by ukiyo-e master Hokusai as well as being the setting for one of Issa's most well-known haiku poems.
I had heard and read so much about the temple, so I was looking forward to seeing it in person. Do you really lie down on the tatami to look at Hokusai's painting? From where did Issa watch the frog mating that inspired his poem?
I had so many questions!
And luckily, the lady behind the counter was full of answers. Not only did she cure my curiosity, but she shared a number of fascinating facets about the temple.
The thing that amazed me the most was regarding the pigments in Hokusai's painting of a pheonix on the ceiling. I inquired if the colors were fading at all after being on display constantly for so many years. The lady told me Hokusai picked the pigments, he calculated their natural evolution over time in such a way that the painting's colors would be at their most brilliant 200 years after he finished. It's been on display for 160 years, so that means in another 40 years from now, the painting will be at its peak coloration.
I'm 40 now, so that means I have to come back to see it again when I'm 80 years old!
There are so many stories in that one painting -- hidden Mt. Fuji's, depictions of age-old leaves and branches that had grown attached to the 'ancient' phoenix, the gruesome fact as to why no spiders ever make webs on the painting (some of the pigments were made from poisons), etc. etc.
And then there was the garden, and the pond that was the home to the frog mating ritual that inspired Issa to write his famous poem:
"Yase-gaeru,
Makeru na! Issa,
Kore ni ari."
Roughly translated, it means
"Skinny Frog,
Don't give up! Issa
Is here."
He apparently had taken pity on a smaller frog that was getting muscled out of the way competing with larger frogs for mating. The poem is said to have been dedicated to Issa's son who was battling an illness. Unfortunately, the son died not long after Issa wrote the haiku.
I took a quiet moment taking in the scene of the wood decked balcony overlooking the pond, home to the frolics of the battle frogs as well as to a poignant story of human drama from long, long ago.
Issa's balcony
Happy Valentines
皆様、ハッピーバレンタインディー！どの様に過ごしましたか？私と若女将は小布施でぶらぶら、ラブラブしました。
と言いながら、実は亀清旅館の新年会で板長と仲居さん達と皆で小布施へお昼を食べに行きました。（残念ながら、二人のデートじゃなかった。）
「栗の町」小布施は可愛いお店が沢山あり、甘いスィーツや、美味しいレストラン、素敵な美術、綺麗な街並み、
つまりお二人のデートにピッタリな町です。
小布施散策後、戸倉上山田温泉に戻って、亀清のお風呂にゆっくり入りました。
小布施散策＋上山田温泉のお泊り： お勧めなデートコース！そして、亀清旅館の記念日プラン…完璧！
Happy Valentine's Day, everyone. Did you have a romantic holiday? Mari and I spent a lovely day strolling around Obuse Town.
Actually, it wasn't for a date. It was our ryokan staff's New Year lunch.
Obuse is a really romantic town, though. Cute shops, yummy chestnut sweets, delicious restaurants, wonderful museums (including Hokusai-Kan featuring the ukkiyoe woodblock art of Hokusai).
After our stroll through Obuse, we headed back to Togura Kamiyamada Onsen for a soak in Kamesei's hot spring mineral water bath.
That in fact makes for a great date: Exploring Obuse followed by a stay at Kamiyamada Onsen.
And Kamesei Ryokan has a Anniversary Plan for that special occasion.
この間の上山田神楽保存会の新年会の写真です。最後のお締めで北信流が行われました。私は何度も見たし、参加したこともあるので、歴史的な行事です。
「北信流」とは、この動画で見れます。
上山田お神楽の皆様、今年も頑張りましょう！
At the Kamiyamada Kagura Preservation Group's New Year Party the other day, we finished off with a 'Hokushin-ryu' ceremony. I've seen and taken part in many of these proceedings, and they never fail to impress me with their formal pagentry and deep sense of history. It's said to have originated from here, northern Nagano.
For a video of a Hokushin-ryu ceremony, click here.
Here's wishing Kamiyamada Okagura a great 2011!
上山田神楽保存会のＨＰはこちらClick here for Kamiyamada's Okagura website
Kamesei's naka-niwa garden
「幻」という言葉がどちらかというと、使わり過ぎているから、あまり使いたくない。
だが、この欧米人にとっては日本の庭園は「幻」扱いになる。
そして、雪を足せば、日本庭園＋雪景色がなお「幻」に近い。
その上に、夕暮れの光になれば、更に近付くのではないかと思います。
という事で、亀清旅館の中庭＋雪景色＋夕暮れの光の写真です。
どうでしょうか？「幻」と言えるでしょうか？
In Japanese, there is a word 'Maboroshi' which means 'fantastical' or like a vision. It tends to get overused in marketing, so I try to avoid it.
However, to this Westerner, the relaxing vibes that emanate from Japanese gardens strike me as being 'Maboroshi'.
And add a touch of snow, and the wintery scene becomes even more 'Maboroshi'.
And as the sun starts to go down and a soft dusky glow sets in, the garden takes on an even more 'Maboroshi' feel.
So here is a photo of Kamesei's naka-niwa central garden with fresh snow and at dusk.
Do you think this qualifies as 'Maboroshi'?
Happy Guests?
先に紹介しました１１６６バックパッカーズさんは面白いです。あんなにシンプルな施設なのに、１１６６さんの満足度が非常に高いです。hostelworld.comで93％で、長野地方で２位です。
もっと面白いのは、世界大手の宿泊口コミサイトtravelocity.comで、全国の旅館７，９０９軒の中で２位の渋湯田中温泉の島屋です。もっと綺麗な施設が沢山あるのに、なぜ２位？
その理由は、フレンドリーサービスです。コメントを読めば、必ず出てきます。
つまり、箱がいくら綺麗になっても、スタッフのハートが入ってなければどうにもならない。マニュアルだけじゃ限がある。
先日に島屋に顔を出して、湯本さんご夫婦をお話ししました。「友達が遊びに来る時の対応と同じくするのはフレンドリー（友達の様）なサービスだ」と。近くにものすごく綺麗な野天風呂がある。友達が遊びに来ればそういうところに自然に連れてあげたくなる。お客さんに同じくすれば、喜んでくれる。
それ！
単純でしょう？
The guesthouse I just previously wrote about, 1166 Backpackers, is interesting. Despite rather spartan facilities, 1166 has the 2nd highest customer rating in the Nagano area with 93% on hostelworld.com.
Even more surprising is Shimaya Ryokan in Shibu Yudananka Onsen. On tripadviser.com, of the 7,909 ryokans listed in all of Japan, Shimaya is ranked #2. The Yumoto's even admit their inn isn't one of the best facilities-wise. So why so popular?
The reason is their friendly service. Read the comments -- practically every one of them praises Yumoto-san's friendliness.
Last week, I paid a visit and spoke with the Yumoto's. They explained friendly service is just that -- providing the type of service you would to a friend. For example, there is an onsen in the hills above his inn that has a spectacular view from the bath. If a friend came, you would naturally want to take him or her there. Yumoto-san regularly takes his guests there which they really, really appreciate.
That's it.
Simple, isn't it?
With Iimuro-san in front of her 1166 Backpackers guesthouse
三か月前に、長野市善光寺の近くにバックパッカー用の宿泊施設が出来ました：１１６６バックパッカーズ。昨日、オーナーの飯室織江さんに挨拶しに行ってみました。
１１６６バックパッカーズは長野市の初めてのゲストハウス。善光寺の大門の近辺と言う便利な場所。金額は相部屋で2600円からと言う手ごろの値段。お客の半分が海外からだそうです。
飯室さん自身は海外旅行経験者で旅ココロを持っている熱心な方です。宿の部屋とかお風呂場を見せて頂きましたが、うんとシンプルです。しかし、旅が大好きな飯室さんの気合いと言う印象が一番のころました。
実を言うと、近くに低価格の宿泊施設が出来てしまえば、亀清旅館にどういう影響があるか、心配でした。しかし、良くある現象は亀清に泊まってから１１６６さんに泊まるとか、１１６６さんに泊まってから亀清に来たとかと言うお客さんが数人いました。
つまり、長野県に１泊する予定は、ゲストハウスも出来たお蔭で２泊する事になったケースが見えてきました。恐らく、東京からの日帰りの予定は１１６６さんのお蔭で長野に泊まる事が出来たでしょうし。実際はその逆のケースもある：１１６６さんに滞在しながら、日帰りで東京へ買い物しに行く客もいるそうです。新幹線なら、１時間４０分で行っちゃえる。
そう思うと、今までは長野市のゲストハウスがなかったとのは不思議です。飯室さん、有難うございました。
Three months ago, a guesthouse opened in Nagano City near Zenkoji Temple: 1166 Backpackers. Yesterday I paid a visit and met the owner, Iimuro-san.
1166 Backpackers is Nagano City's first guesthouse. It is conveniently located near Zenkoji's Daimon gate. Prices are very reasonable, starting at 2,600 yen for a dormitory bed. Half of their guests are from overseas.
Iimuro-san herself has travelled extensively overseas and thus shares an appreciation for travel with her guests. The facilities are rather simple, but after getting a tour of the rooms the greatest impression I was left with was Iimuro-san's enthusiasm.
To be honest, when I first heard a low-priced accommodation was opening up nearby, I was worried about the impact it would have here at Kamesei Ryokan. What I've come to find, however, is that there are guests who stay at 1166 before or after a night at Kamesei.
In other words, there are travellers who had probably only intended on staying 1 night in Nagano, but thanks to the existence of 1166, they stayed 2 nights. There are probably people who otherwise would have made Nagano a day trip from Tokyo but thanks to 1166, extended their stay and spent a night. In fact, Iimuro-san said she's had guests that stayed multiple nights at 1166 and made day trips in to Tokyo for shopping. With the Nagano Shinkansen making the trip in just 1 hour 40 minutes, that is certainly doable.
When you think about it, it's surprising that before 1166 there were no guesthouses in Nagano City. Thank you, Iimuro-san, for your contribution.
1166のＨＰはこちらClick here for 1166's website.
Another Inariyama 'kura' biting the dust
千曲市に稲荷山という町があります。善光寺街道の宿場だったころからの土壁の蔵は残っている、風情のある街です。市の観光資料の中に必ず載っていますが、実際行ってみて、がっかりする方が多いそうです。なぜなら、崩れてきてボロボロな蔵が多いからです。
個人的に私はこのままの土蔵が十分魅力あると思っています。逆に、Ｄｉｓｎｅｙｌａｎｄの様に表面だけを綺麗にしたら面白くない。しかし、土蔵の持ち主に何かの支援をしないと、個人だけじゃ土蔵の修理は無理でしょう。
以前に稲荷山を守ろう位としている仲間と市長に陳情した事があります。行政の協力がないと、無理という事；今の内に手を付けないと、土蔵が消えるよと。
その時に、市長がの一言：
「今の内」と言われてもネ… 皆は必ずそう言うよ
と否定されました。
と言いながら、今日、稲荷山と通ったら、また一つな土蔵の壊しの工事が行われていました。
近藤市長の任期の間に、稲荷山の土蔵は何件がつぶされたでしょうか？その責任は？
Here in Chikuma City, we have a neighborhood called Inariyama. It started out as a way station on the old Zenkoji Road connecting now-Nagano City and Matsumoto. Many of the original earthen-walled storehoses still exist, and the city always includes the area on its sightseeing brochures. However, many people who go see it come away disappointed. That's because a lot of the storehouses are in a crumbling state of disrepair.
Personally, I like the townscape the way it is now, and prefer it to a Disney-fied version with an impeccably maintained surface. But I realize that efforts need to be made to refurbish the storehouses. For the private owners, however, such maintenance is prohibitively expensive. Help from the government is required.
Some buddies of mine and I went to petition the mayor for just such assistance. We told him that the city has to act now before the storehouses disappear, that it's now or never.
The mayor's response?
"They've been saying 'Now or never' from a way long time ago, and will be saying that far into the future, too."
In other words, he blew us off.
Well, mayor, I drove through Inariyama today, and guess what I saw? Another storehouse being demolished. Just how many of these 'kura' will have disappeared under your watch? Who's responsibility is that?
この地獄へ道連れの詳しくはこちら。More about this 'kura' biting the dust here.
FBI Ramen
先月は松代の「男気ラーメン」に行きました。渋い外観にカウンターの内側の格好良いお兄さんにごつい豚骨ラーメン。
その後、佐久市の文蔵と言うラーメンさんに行ってみた。渋い外観にカウンターの内側の格好良いお兄さんにごつい豚骨ラーメン。その上に、お兄さんのラーメン作りは半分パフォーマンスで掛け声で盛り上がっていました。
そして、週末に上田市の話題になっているＦ．Ｂ．Ｉ．と言うラーメン屋さんに行ってみた。噂通り、30分待たされた。それぐら人気がある。渋い外観、格好お兄さんたち（格好お姉さんも一人いた）、ごつい豚骨ラーメン。なおかつ、その掛け声。（後で分かったけど、ＦＢＩと文蔵が兄弟店です。）
現代ラーメンのトレンドはお分かりでしょうか？
As reported earlier, last month I went to 'Otoko-gi' (Man-Spirit) Ramen in Matsushiro. Cool, dark exterior with a stylish dude behind the counter making the noodles, and thick pork-based soup for the noodles.
More recently, I checked out Bunzoh Ramen in Saku City. Again, a cool, dark exterior with a stylish dude behind the counter making the noodles, and thick pork-based soup for the noodles. This time with the staff shouting out 'Seei' in time with the noodle chef's antics.
And last weekend, it was time for F.B.I. Ramen in Ueda City. I had heard the place is so popular you have to wait a half an hour for your ramen. We waited. And it was worth it. More of the same -- cool, dark exterior with a stylish dude (this time, a cool chick) behind the counter making the noodles, and thick pork-based soup for the noodles. And more 'Seei'. I found out later that Bunzoh and FBI are part of the same 'junk noodle' syndicate.
So, do you get an idea of what today's trendy ramen is like?
Bunzoh's exterior
Bunzoh's cool staff and interior
junk noodles
Orangutans and Natto over eggplant oyaki and cold beer -- You had to have been there.
Expatの新年会？
オーストリア人の木細工師、米国人のコンサルタント、ハンガリー人の陶芸家、そしてこの青い目の旅館若旦那。
皆が戸倉上山田温泉の周辺に住んでいる外国人だ。七福と言うおやき屋さんで集まって、なんちゃった新年会をやりました。亀清に2週間ぐらい滞在しているオーストラリア人の研究家三人と、陶芸家のＡｇｎｅｓさんの旦那さん、版画家のＦｕｍｉｏさんも一緒になって、皆で冷たいビールを飲みながら、アツアツ焼きたてのおやきで盛り上がりました。
海外に住む経験のあるＦｕｍｉｏさんが言ってくれました：日本に住んでいる外国人は色々なストレスがある；日本人には理解が出来ない。偶にこういうお互いに理解できる人たちの集まりが必要。他の付き合いは沢山あるから頻繁に集まれないけど、偶にね。
ちなみに、Ｆｕｍｉｏさんの新作版画展「色彩の幻想」は上田市にあるギャラリー駒で2月23日（水）から28日（月）まで行う予定です。Ａｇｎｅｓさんの作品がそのギャラリーの常設展示品だそうです。詳しくはＨＰへ。
It was like an expat 'Shin-nen kai' (New Year party). It seems like every little 'association' around is having these Shin-nen kai's. As a ryokan owner, I'm grateful as many of them are held at ryokans like ours. But most of them seem to be just another excuse to drink. Especially as they are coming off the tail of all those 'Bo-nen kai' (Forget-the-Year parties) at the end of last year. If people want to get together for a beer, why don't they just get together for a beer and not have to use an excuse of 'New Year Party'?
End of tirade and back to the story at hand.
A woodworker from Austria, a ceramic artist from Hungary, a consultant from the States, and yours truly, the blue-eyed ryokan proprietor, hooked up for a cold beer (call it a Shin-nen kai if you must) over piping hot oyaki buns at Shichifuku. We all live an work in the vicinity of Togura Kamiyamada Onsen, and have a common bond of moving here from overseas. We were joined by 3 Aussies that are staying at Kamesei for an extended time as they work on a research paper, as well as Fumio-san, the husband of ceramic artist Agnes-san.
Fumio-san, who has lived abroad himself, shared a wise tidbit of info: foreigners living in Japan have a lot of stress; stress that a Japanese person can't understand. It's important for them to get together with people who face similar stress and blow off steam every once in a while. It should be spontaneous, not a formal get-together, as everyone has enough other regular obligations in their lives.
By the way, Fumio-san's newest prints will be on display at Gallery Koma in Ueda City from Wednesday 23-Feb through Monday 28-Feb. Agnes's ceramic pieces are on permanent display there as well. Check out the gallery's website for details.
