戸倉上山田温泉の冬イルミネーション　温かい点灯式 Togura-Kamiyamada Onsen's Winter Illumination: Warm Lighting Festival

November 18, 2012: Uncategorized
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戸倉上山田温泉の冬イルミネーションは11月17日からスタートしました。その夜の8時に私達旅館青年部の主催で点灯式を開催しました。

イルミネーション委員長の滝澤さん（ホテル雄山）が点灯音楽を準備して、そして見えたお客様の為に小石の湯の伝説のお守りのプレゼントも持って来てくれました。ＯＢの俊樹さんが馬車で来て、観光客（と私たち青年部）に乗せてくれました。地元のケーブルテレビも来て、撮影してくれました。

当日はずっと雨でした。点灯式の時間帯、20:00は雨の降る確率が100％でした。しかし、実行委員長の滝澤さんが晴れ男で、20:00の直前で雨がやみました。

今回の点灯式は初めてでした。ＰＲ不足や良くない天気のせいで、お客様が少なかったですが、工夫しながら継続したいと思いました。

カラコロ足湯の公園の光は2月末まで、本通りの光は3月17日までの予定。この冬の戸倉上山田温泉もどうぞ、楽しんでください。

The winter illumination for our onsen town, Togura Kamiyamada, officially got underway Saturday November 17th. The ryokan junior association held a Lighting Ceremony that evening at 8pm.

Our official Illumination Chief, Hideo-san from Hotel Yuzan, prepared music especially for the ceremony. He also brought gifts to give visitors who came to see the lights. And Toshiki-san brought his horse and buggy and gave free rides to guests (and to us ryokan guys, too!). Our local cable TV cameraman came and shot footage of the event.

This was the first time we've held an official lighting ceremony. It actually rained the whole day, and the weather forecast called for 100% chance of rain at 8pm. However, Hideo-san has a perfect track-record of no rain for any event he has been in charge of, and this time was no different. As if by magic, the rain stopped around 7:30, and we were able to enjoy a lovely, if a bit cold, ceremony.

Due to poor publicity and the rainy weather, we had very few people come to see our event. But with a little tweaking, I hope we can continue this in years to come.

This winter, Togura-Kamiyamada's lights will be on at the Kara-Koro footbath through the end of February, and our main street, Chuo-Dori, will be lit up until March 17th. Come and enjoy our onsen town this winter!




Our daughter Misaki Enjoying the Glow


Koishi-no-Yu Monument Glowing, Too.


上山田のもう一つな紅葉名所：　城山の善光寺別院 Another Kamiyamada Fall Colors Spot: Jyo-Yama Mountain

November 17, 2012: Uncategorized
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Stone Lanterns and Fall Foliage

先日は上山田の紅葉名所、智識寺を紹介しました。実は、紅葉が負けないぐらいに綺麗な場所、もう一つあります:　温泉街の裏手にある城山の善光寺別院。

温泉街から歩いて約25分、車で3～4分で登れます。登る道こそ、林の中通って行くので紅葉のトンネルの様になる。途中で展望台があるし、登って行くこと実体は楽しめる。

そして、お寺さんで雄大なモミジやイチョウの木があります。私はその葉っぱの色と行燈のコントラストが大好きです。

善光寺別院は展望台にもなっています。見下ろせば戸倉上山田温泉が見れて、千曲川がクネクネ伸びていて、周辺の山々も見えます。今の時期はその山が紅葉で色彩に富んだパッチワークとなっています。

一年に一度しかない紅葉の時期はたっぷりと楽しましょう！

The other day I wrote about Kamiyamada's most famous spot for Fall Foliage, Chishiki-ji Temple. Actually, though, there is another spot even closer to our onsen town with leaves that may be even more colorful. It is the Zenkoji Branch Temple on Jyo-Yama, the mountain right behind our onsen town.

From Togura-Kamiyamada Onsen, the temple is a 25 minute walk or 3-4 minute drive. The road up to the temple passes through a lush forest that becomes a yellow-orange tunnel this time of year. Along the way there is an outlook with expansive views of the valley below.

The temple grounds have some giant maple and ginkgo trees that turn brilliant shades of red and yellow in the fall. I particularly like the contrast of their leaves with the stone lanterns.

The temple's deck also overlooks the Chikuma River valley and the onsen town below, plus there is a great view of the surrounding hills and mountains. The hills are a patchwork of colors this time of year.

The time of fall colors only comes once a year, so take advantage of this season and enjoy the colors to the fullest!






上山田温泉：　紅葉のピーク、ふじりんごの始まり Kamiyamada Onsen: Fall Foliage Peak, Fuji Apples Start

November 16, 2012: Uncategorized
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Chishiki-ji in full fall color

この戸倉上山田温泉の代表の紅葉スポット、智識寺に寄って来ました。モミジが真赤、イチョウが真っ黄色、お寺の茅葺屋根と素晴らしいコントラストになっています。写真者の皆様、今はチャンスですよ！

そして、智識寺の隣のクラウン農園に寄ってみた。今のりんごは何の種類が出ているかと思った。秋のしなのスイート、秋映、しなのゴールドはもう終わりかけ、ふじりんごがちょうど始まったと教えてくれました。「もう一週間たった方が更に甘くなる」と女将さんが言っていました。しかし、試食してみました。言わせて頂けたら、もう、十分甘いです。

という事で、今週末に戸倉上山田にお越しになる皆様、紅葉のピークだし、ふじりんごの始まりなので、お楽しみに。

The most famous location for fall foliage here in our onsen town Togura-Kamiyamada is Chishiki-ji Temple. I stopped by to see how the leaves are progressing, and was pleased to find the maple trees were in full red color, and the ginkgo trees had turned a brilliant shade of yellow. All of you photography buffs out there, this is your perfect chance to get some great pictures of this historical, thatched-rood temple and its gardens in full fall glory.

Right next to Chishiki-ji is Crown Farm. I stopped by there, too, to check on how the apple season is shaping up. They said the fall apples (Shinano Sweet, Akibae, Shinano Gold) are pretty much finished, and the Fuji apples have just started. Mrs. Tobita said that it would be another week before the Fuji apples reach their peak sweetness, but if you ask me, they were definitely sweet enough.

So for everyone planning a visit to Togura-Kamiyamada Onsen this weekend, you're in for a treat: peak fall colors and the start of the fuji apples!

智識寺 Chishiki-ji

クラウン農園 Crown Farm






上山田温泉の冬イルミネーション　点灯式＠11月17日（土） Kamiyamada's Winter Illumination Lightup Ceremony 17-Nov

November 15, 2012: Uncategorized
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Illumination and horse buggy rides, November 17th.

戸倉上山田温泉はこの冬にまたイルミネーションが行われます。カラコロ足湯の公園を中心として、そして上山田温泉の本通りをライトアップします。

その点灯式は11月17日（土）夜8時から行います。上山田ホテルの二男、俊樹さんが馬車を出しますので、ご家族の皆様でイルミネーションと馬車乗りを楽しんで頂けます。

カラコロ足湯の公園のイルミネーションは2013年2月末まで、本通りのライトアップは3月17日までの予定です。本通りとカラコロ足湯、その隣の東屋のイルミネーションは私達旅館青年部が飾り付けました。今年は新しく出来た小石の湯のモニュメントの周りにも光を付けました。そして、おかみの会の提供で公園の能舞台にもイルミネーションを付けました。

この冬は温度が低いかもしれませんが、戸倉上山田の温泉とイルミネーションで温かくなりそうです！

Our onsen town Togura-Kamiyamada will again this winter brighten the night with colorful lights. Our main park with the Kara-koro foot bath will be lit up, as well as Kamiyamada Onsen's main street.

On Saturday November 17th, our official Lightup Ceremony will be held starting at 8pm. In addition to the illumination, Toshiki-san from Kamiyamada Hotel will offer free horse and buggy rides. Everyone from kids to adults can enjoy the fun.

The main park's illumination will continue through the end of February, 2013. And the main street will be lit until March 17th, 2013. The park's and street's illumination was set out by us, the ryokan junior association. This year we also added lights to the new Koishi-no-yu Legend Monument. Additional lights for the stage were provided by the ladies guild.





「紬」テーマの客室庭の新しい顔 Facelift for our Silk-themed Room's Garden

November 14, 2012: Uncategorized
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espaliered mulberry bush in the background

亀清旅館の「紬」テーマの客室の庭は2年前に庭師の岡田さんに作って頂きました。テーマに従って、桑の木も植えてくれました。この頃はものすごく伸び伸びしました。お客様にご迷惑をかけてしまったようですが、実は態と伸ばしていました。桑の枝を塀に取り組んで、Ｅｓｐａｌｉｅｒ（垣根仕立て）にする計画でした。

先日は庭師が来て、「紬」の庭も含めて、それぞれの庭を整理してくれました。桑はＥｓｐａｌｉｅｒになって、その庭全体が格好良くなりました。

亀清旅館は中庭を始めて、坪庭や離れ風の客室に小庭など、所々にお庭があります。長年は手入れ不足でしたが、私達若旦那・若女将が戻ってきてからは毎年で庭を少しずつ改造しています。

上山田の温泉らしいお湯、
我がＣｈｅｆ武井の手をかけたお料理、
亀清の昔ながらの作り、
私共のおもてなし、
そして、お庭で
お客様がホッとして頂けます。

Kamesei Ryokan's silk-themed room "Matsukaze" has a garden that was re-built 2 years ago by our gardener, Okada-san. He designed the garden to reflect the room's theme. Accordingly, he planted a mulberry bush. Recently the mulberry bush's branches had grown long and shaggy, probably leaving a poor impression on our guests. However, we were letting it grow out on purpose, so we could tie the branches to the garden's fence, espalier-style.

This week, our gardener came and worked on the silk-themed garden as well as a few others. So our mulberry bush is now made up in an espalier, greatly improving the garden's overall appearance.

Here at Kamesei Ryokan, starting with our naka-niwa central garden, we have tsubo-niwa pocket gardens, private gardens for the semi-detached guestrooms, and more gardens everywhere throughout our inn. Unfortunately, they had been severely neglected over the years. But since Mari and I moved to start running the inn 7 years ago, every year we have been making gradual improvements to the gardens.

Kamiyamada's authentic onsen water,
Our Chef Takei's culinary magic,
Kamesei Ryokan's traditional ambience,
Our 'omotenashi' service,
and the gardens,
all serve to provide our guests a relaxing time.

亀清旅館 Kamesei Ryokan





客室庭の滝作り：　日本庭園のルール Building a Waterfall with Japanese Garden Rules

November 13, 2012: Uncategorized
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Start of the waterfall

もう2012年の暮れが近付いているけど、今年の私のプロジェクトは亀清旅館の客室「弥生」の庭に滝を作る事にしました。日本庭園の滝の「ルール」は一生懸命勉強しているのでなるべく従っています。

まずは鏡石から始まる。縦の平たい面の石。

その両端に滝添石。鏡石より少し高くて、支える役。

更に両端に少し小さい石が広がって、池の護岸に進んでいく。

護岸は護岸でまた細かい「ルール」があるようです。

まあ、一歩一歩で滝造りを進んでいます。

As 2012 comes to a close, I am finally getting around to my project for the year: making a waterfall in the garden for Kamesei Ryokan's guestroom "Yayoi".

In order to make the waterfall, I have been researching Japanese garden waterfall techniques. I am finding there is a set of strict "rules" for waterfall construction.

First you start with the central "kagami-ishi", which means "mirror stone". It is placed standing up, leaning slightly forward, and has a flat face.

On either side are "takizoe-ishi", meaning "supporting" or "auxillary stones". They are slightly taller than the kagami-ishi and lean toward and support the central stone.

From there, smaller stones extend out and transition to the "gogan" (pond embankment). The gogan has its own set of rules, as well.

This project to build a waterfall for this garden is certainly turning into a learning experience!





新しい貸切露天「しなの風呂」の初紅葉 Family Onsen Bath's First Fall

November 12, 2012: Uncategorized
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Japanese Spice Bush in Bloom

亀清旅館の新しい貸切露天「しなの風呂」の庭が紅葉してきました。去年のこの頃に出来たので、紅葉見風呂として初めての秋となります。

今はダンコウバイが見頃です。葉っぱが真っ黄色になりました。

庭師の岡田さんのデザインで、次から次へ、さまざまな色に紅葉しています。

是非、この機会で亀清旅館の新しい貸切露天風呂に入ってみてください。

Kamesei Ryokan's new outdoor family onsen bath, "Shinano-Buro", is celebrating its first full autumn since completion. The various plants and trees that our gardener, Okada-san, planted are turning brilliant shades of yellow and orange.

Right now, the Lindera obtusiloba (Japanese spice bush) is putting on a golden show.

This is a great chance to enjoy fall foliage while soaking in our new onsen bath!





長野トップ１００温泉：　山田温泉大湯　Nagano Top 100 Onsens: Yamada Onsen O-Yu

November 11, 2012: Uncategorized
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Authentic onsen, Yamada Onsen's O-Yu

信州高山村の山田温泉に公衆浴場「大湯」があります。
村のＨＰによると、「大湯は、開湯２００年の歴史をもつ古湯に、桃山風建築の堂々としたたたずまいが温泉情緒を醸し出しています。」
今の建物は外から見れば２００年ではなくて、最近に出来た様に見えました。しかし中に入ったら、本格的でした。

私の山田温泉「大湯」の初体験:
裸になって、浴場に入ったらまずは掛け湯。しかし、どこでやるかは悩んじゃう。シャワーとか蛇口は一切ない。奥の壁に面白い木造の配管っぽい所があって、木の板を上げらばお湯が出るかな？
「板を前に引っ張って」と天使（＝地元のおじさん）が言ってくれました。お蔭で、やっと掛け湯。
さあ、今度はお風呂にザボって。湯船は「あつ湯」と「ぬる湯」の２つに分けてある。ぬる湯が苦手で、あつ湯から入ろうとしたら、４５℃ぐらいで暑くて入れなかった！
また天使に救われた：「ぬる湯にまず入って、慣れなっきゃ」と。
なるほど。ぬる湯に入りなおすと、最適な４１℃じゃないですか？何が「ぬるい」かい？

伝統的な木造の作りで屋根が吹き抜きになっていて、これは本格的な温泉だな。お湯も硫黄の香りがプンプンとして、本物の温泉お湯。

皆さんの長野温泉巡りで、山田温泉「大湯」はお勧め。

In Nagano's Takayama Village in the foothills east of Nagano City is a small collection of onsen ryokans called Yamada Onsen. In the center is a public onsen bathhouse called "O-Yu" (which loosely translates as the 'Main Bath'). According to the village's website, a bathhouse has been at this spot for 200+ years. The current building is built in a traditional manner and visitors are in for a very authentic 'onsen' experience.

My first experience of Yamada Onsen's O-Yu went like this:

After getting naked and entering the bathing room, as always the first thing I wanted to was rinse off before soaking. Which posed a problem, as there was nothing even resembling a shower. On the far wall was a wooden contraption with funky wooden levers. I thought if I lifted the lever out, water to wash with would come out. No joy.

Then an angel (read, "local regular user old guy") spoke: "Pull the lever forward." Ahh, water to rinse with!

Next was to soak. There onsen baths were divided into an "Atsu-Yu" hot bath and "Nuru-Yu" cool bath. I personally don't like Nuru-Yu's, so I hopped into the Atsu-Yu.

Or, I should say, I tried to hop into the Atsu-Yu. It was a scaulding-hot 45 deg C.

Again, the angel: "Try the Nuru-Yu first to get your body used to the hot temperature."

Ahh. Okay, 2nd attempt, the Nuru-Yu. It turns out, it's a perfect 41 deg C., nothing "cool" about it. Apparently people here have a unique definition of what constitutes a cool temperature.

The bathhouse's traditional construction with a raised, vented central ceiling to let the onsen mist out, the onsen water with a strong sulfur content,
Yamada Onsen's O-Yu makes for an authentic onsen experience.

If you make an onsen-hopping trip to Nagano, I highly suggest stopping at Yamada Onsen's O-Yu.

山田温泉「大湯」Yamada Onsen "O-Yu"




No showers here. Pull the wooden lever towards you for water for washing.



ちなみに、仲間のＰｅｔｅｒさんが「長野トップ１００日帰り温泉」の英字本を書いているので、私が手伝っています。まあ、温泉巡りが「手伝い」と言えるかどうか分かりませんが、今回は温泉のセミナーに行く途中で少し余裕があって、この山田温泉の大湯に入りました。

By the way, my buddy Peter is writing a book on the Top 100 Onsens of Nagano. I am helping with the research (if you can call onsen-hopping 'helping'). This time I was headed to an onsen seminar and had just enough time to enjoy stopping at Yamada Onsen's O-Yu.

Peter Ninnes' books




高橋祐次さんの温泉セミナー　Onsen Seminar By Takahashi Yuji-san

November 10, 2012: Uncategorized
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Takahashi-san giving his seminar at Taki no Yu.

日本温泉地域学会関係で知り合った温泉ソムリエ高橋祐次さんが信州高山村の松川松川渓谷温泉郷の滝の湯さんで温泉のセミナーを開催しました。前泊は私ども亀清旅館に泊まってくれて、私がそのセミナーに参加する為に松川渓谷まで追いかけました。

セミナーの内容は温泉の基本の事でしたが、非常に参考になりました。「温泉」の世界が深い中で一番のポイントは「温泉のマナー」とか「入浴ルール」とかはどこに行ってもしつこく書いてあるけど、実はそれは自分自身の体を守る事にもなる。
・入浴前に掛け湯をする
衛星の面はもちろんあるけど、お湯の温度に慣らす事によって、血圧上昇で心臓に負担かけを防げる。
・浴室で十分身体に付いた水滴をとる
脱衣場を汚さない為にもなるけど、気化熱で体冷えも防げる。
など。

でも、一番はやはり、水分補給だと、高橋さんが言っていました。先日、亀清旅館のお客さんでお酒を飲んでからお風呂に入って、上ったら血貧になったせいか、たおりました。お風呂とお酒で水分が飛ばしたでしょう。

高橋さん、良いアドバイスを有難うございました。

Mr. Yuji Takahashi and I originally met through the Japan Onsen Regional Science Association. He came back to Nagano to give a seminar on onsen basics at Taki no Yu in Takayama Village. He spent the night before here at Kamesei Ryokan, and I followed him up to Takayama Village to listen to his presentation.

Takahashi-san's talk simplified many of the sometimes confusing details about onsens. His main conclusion was that many of the "Onsen Manners" and "Rules for Onsen Bathing" actually serve the dual purpose of protecting our bodies. For example:

*Pour water on your body before entering the bath.
Not only does this allow you to enter the common bath with a clean body, but it gives your body a chance to adjust to the temperature of the bath, avoiding a spike in your blood pressure.

*Towel off before leaving the bath area.
This helps avoid making the changing room slippery, but it also means your body will have a less chance of developing chills due to evaporation.

One of Takahashi-san's constant points was to drink lots of liquids. Bathing in an onsen actually dehydrates your body. We recently had a guest here at Kamesei Ryokan that took a soak in our onsen bath after drinking too much sake. When he got out of the bath, he passed out since the sake and onsen bath left him too dehydrated.

Takahashi-san, thank you for all of your great advice!

滝の湯Taki no Yu





信州高山村：　紅葉の高井橋 Takayama's Iconic Takai Bridge in Fall

November 9, 2012: Uncategorized
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The iconic red Takai Bridge and Matsukawa Ravine in fall colors

橋がある。

そして、信州高山村の高井橋がある。

紅葉の時期は高井橋と背景の松川渓谷が長野県を代表できるような風景になります。高井橋の赤い色と松川渓谷の楓の黄色い葉っぱは絵の様な景色になる。

温泉についての研修会の為に山田温泉郷に行きました。ちょうどその赤い高井橋を通りましたが、渡ってから県道６６道に左折して、ちょっと下ったらこの写真を撮れた景色スポットがあります。

通常は松川渓谷の紅葉が１０月中旬から下旬までですが、今年は少し遅れて、この様に１１月上旬まだ綺麗でした。

There are bridges, and then there is the red Takai-Hashi Bridge in northern Nagano's Takayama Village.

During the fall, the brilliant red color of Takai-Hashi combined with the gorgeous yellows of the Matsukawa Ravine maple trees makes for one of Nagano's most iconic fall scenes.

I drove up to Takayama Village (not to be confused with Hida-Takayama in Gifu Prefecture) for an onsen seminar, and was fortunate to be able to see this most famous fall foliage setting. Normally the trees of Matsukawa Ravine change color in mid- to late-October but this year the leaves changed later than normal, and were still this beautiful in early November.

Takayama Village's Matsukawa Ravine