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長野県は温泉が沢山あって、回り切れない。近場でもまだ行った事がないのがあります。今回はその一つにデビューしました:　戸倉温泉の白鳥園。

白鳥園は我が亀清から歩いて15分の距離なのに、
そして超有名（ＴＤＬとかできる前の時代で遊園地の様な役割だったようで、ご年配の皆は白鳥園の事を懐かしく語る）なのに、
今回は私の初めてだった。

建物は一昔の造りで、実は千曲市が新しい建物を作って、今のを約一年後取り壊す予定だそうです。「今の内じゃないと」と思って、家族で行ってみました。

まずは、温泉評論家臭い印象:

お湯は上山田と似ている単純硫黄泉なので、湯口から流れるお湯はとっても良い香りがする。ただ、湯船は循環で薬を入れているせいか、湯質があまり感じないのは残念だった。

と言っても、温度が入りやすい４０℃前後、湯船はいくつかを楽しめる。代表的な広い内風呂は「マンモス風呂」とも言われているぐらい広い。（３００人が入れるそうです。）でかい岩の露天風呂も快適。後は泡風呂、寝湯と水風呂のもう３つの内風呂もサウナもある。

お風呂上りは
食堂（ニンニクたれの焼き鳥が名物）、
１００円のゲームセンター　（モグラたたきで私が今日のハイスコアが出来た！）、
卓球、
カラオケ、
売店、
色々あります。（それぞれの営業時間が異になるので要チェック）

なおかつ、玄関に岡本太郎の作品がある。天皇陛下は一度、泊まった事があるぐらい。（御本人の使った器が展示されている。）

これは湯質がああでこうでの問題じゃない。白鳥園はトータルのことを考えなきゃいけない。そのタイムスリップの様なトータル。そして、一年後、すべてが新しくなるから今の内ですよ。

（新しくなってからはあのモグラたたきのゲームはどうなるだろう？）

In researching (?) Nagano's Top 100 Onsens, I've come to realize that there are just so many onsens, it's going to be impossible to try them all. There are several here in Togura-Kamiyamada Onsen even that I haven't been to yet. I finally made my "debut" at one of those -- Togura Onsen's Hakuchouen.

Even though Hakuchouen is only a 15 minute walk from Kamesei Ryokan,
and even though it is a legend in these parts (in the era before Tokyo Disneyland, Hakuchouen served as somewhat of an amusement park so all of the old-timers in the area speak fondly of their memories of the place),
this was my first time to experience the legend.

First, my attempt at being an onsen critic:

The onsen water is high in sulfur content, similar to Kamiyada's. So where it comes pouring out into the bath, there is a strong sulfur smell. But the bath water is recirculated so with the chlorine and what-not added, it looses any special "onsen" sensation.

However, the variety of the baths makes up for that. First there is the massive main indoor bath, nicknamed the "Mammoth Bath" (supposedly big enough for 300 people), and an outdoor bath made out of impressively large boulders. But wait, there's more! 3 more indoor baths -- a bubble bath, one where you lay down in, and a lukewarm bath, perfect for dipping in after coming out of the sauna.

And no description of Hakuchouen would be complete without mentioning the extras:
a cafeteria with, besides the regular ramen and donburi fare, features some seriously potent garlic-seasoned yakitori (chicken-on-skewers),
a game center (I got the day's high score on the Whack the Mole game!),
ping-pong tables,
karaoke singing,
a shop selling everything from peanuts to go with your beer to clothes of questionable fashion sense.
(The various areas have different operation hours so double-check once you get there.)
There's even an Okamoto Taro sculpture in the entrance. And to top it off, the emperor once spent the night at Hakuchouen. (They even have the tableware and dishes he used on display.)

Hakuchouen is more than just its onsen water -- you have to consider the total package. The entire time-slip total.

Just be sure to consider it soon -- it will all be replaced in about a year's time.

(What will happen to that classic Whack the Mole game?)

まだまだ、長野のトップ100温泉の研究（？）が続いています。まだまだいい温泉が沢山ある！

今回は長野市松代地区の皆神山の麓にある虫歌の湯に入ってみた。松代の方に「露天風呂からの眺めが綺麗」との事で、勧められた。

温泉評論家っぽい言い方からも知れないけど、虫歌の湯は長野のトップ100温泉に入るかどうか、微妙だと思いました。
大露天風呂の岩と庭が立派だが、側に走る県道35号を少し上れば岩と石がもっともっと立派の十福の湯がある。
奥の露天風呂からの眺めが長野市と善光寺平が見えて良かったけど、塀が邪魔で立たないと見れない。松代から車で約10分走れば、大室温泉「まきばの湯」はもっと本格的な眺めがある。
そして、私が一番気になっている湯質についえ、虫歌の湯のお湯はあまり特徴的じゃない。同じ松代の松代荘と一陽館の鉄分が高いお湯、湯質こそ本格的。
まあ、虫歌の湯の建物と大露天風呂の上の屋根に使っている柱が太くて印象的ですが、全体な事を考えれば更に良い立ち寄り湯た近くにあります。

これはあくまで私の意見です。虫歌の湯のは虫歌の湯の湯でファンが少なくはないどうぞ、入ってみてください。

My research (if you can call it that) of Nagano's Top 100 Onsens continues. This time it was Mushi-Uta no Yu in Nagano City's Matsushiro district. Located at the foot of Mt. Minakami (rumored to be a pyramid visited by UFO's), Mushi-Uta no Yu overlooks Nagano City and the Zenkoji Plain. Several acquaintances who live in Matsushiro recommended Mushi-Uta for its view.

Mushi-Uta literally means "the insects' song". It refers to Matsushiro's roots as a silkworm growing area. Children used to hear the cries of the silkworms struggling to break out of their cocoons and had a statue dedicated to Kannon (the Goddess of Mercy) built nearby.

Not that I'm an onsen critic, but here is my arguably critical take on Mushi-Uta no Yu:

The large outdoor bath is massive, and features huge boulders and a garden. However, just 10 minutes further up Route 35 is Juppuku no Yu whose outdoor bath features even more impressive boulders and a much more complete garden.
The highly-touted view from the outdoor bath overlooking the valley turned out to be disappointing, as you had to stand up to enjoy it due to fence blocking the view. About 10 minutes north of Matsushiro is Omuro Onsen's Makiba no Yu has a much more panaromic view of the valley.
For me, the most important part is the quality of the onsen water, and that was the biggest disappointment -- Mushi-Uta's mineral content is rather bland and the baths are recirculated. Which is a shame, because also in Matsushiro is Matsushiro-sou and nearby Ichiyoukan whose iron-rich mineral water makes for an unforgettable onsen experience.

One thing Mushi-Uta has going for it is the impressive timbers used in the construction of the bathhouse and the shelter over the main outdoor bath. Overall though, with so many better onsen options in the area, Mushi-Uta needs more than just cool columns.

But don't take my word for it. Mushi-Uta has lots of fans -- go check it out yourself.

虫歌の湯 Mushi-Uta no Yu