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別所温泉は信州の最古の温泉と言われ、9世紀から歴史が記録されている。今は旅館17軒がその伝統と歴史を守っている。先日は県の旅館組合青年部で「上松屋」にお世話になりました。
入口のステインドグラスが特徴でお料理は手が掛かれて、宿の主人が活発的（宴会の時に侍の格好で挨拶してくれた）、若旦那が米国の大学を卒業し、若女将が台湾生まれ、国際的な宿です。
一番良かったのは朝風呂。高台にある風呂場の露天風呂からの別所温泉、奥の塩田平の眺めに上がってくる太陽の光、最高の朝風呂でした。
湯質は単純硫黄泉で温度は40℃前後。千数百年の歴史で続いてきた価値が分かる。

Bessho Onsen is said to be the oldest hot springs in Nagano with a history dating back to the 9th century. The 17 current ryokans work hard to preserve that history and tradition.
The other day, the Nagano Ryokan Junior Innkeepers Association gathered at Bessho, and the inn we stayed at was Uematsuya. With its distinctive stained glass entrance, and equally distinctive owner (he greeted us at our banquest dressed as a samurai), Uematsuya makes a unique impression on its guest. The son was educated in the States, and his wife is from Taiwan, so there is an international flair to the inn as well. The meals were elegantly prepared -- the chef's dedication to his art was evident.
But the best part of the experience was the morning onsen bath. Uematsuya's baths are set on a point overlooking the inns of the onsen as well as the Sanada Plain in the distance. With the sun peaking over the ridge, it made for a mystical sight.
Bessho's onsen water is a sulfur spring, and the bath temperatures were a pleasant 40 degress Celsius.

上松屋 Uematsuya

今回の青年部の集まりは研修会の為でした。会計プロの中村先生が旅館の経営者の知るべきな専門情報を教えてくれました。あまりにも専門的で、さっぱり分からなかった。資料を持って帰ってきたのでうちの会計士と相談しま～す！
The keynote address for this gathering of the junior innkeepers was by accounting guru Nakamura-sensei. He explained the technicalities that a proprietor needs to know. It was way too technical for me, though. I brought all the info home and will have to go over it with our accountant!

北信のもう一つの観光名所、高橋まゆみ人形館の２０１３年度の予定も来ました。高橋まゆみさんの作っている人形は凄い。その表情。その雰囲気。田舎の時代の知らないのんきな生活を表現する。
２０１０年に開館した人形館を見た事がなければ、是非行ってみてください。
見た事が既にあれば、下記の様に展示が変わるのでまた足を運べば良いと思う。
高橋まゆみ人形館は理由にして北信を巡れば良いかも。

Here's the 2013 schedule for another of Northern Nagano's must-see spots: the Mayumi Takahashi Museum of Doll Art.
These aren't toy dolls to play with, they are works of art. Art that catches the essence of the carefree lifestyle of the people in the Japanese countryside, a lifestyle that seems to know no age.
This museum dedicated to Mayumi-san's art was opened in 2010. If you've never seen it, you have to. And if you've already been there, you should go again to see these new exhibits.
Use the Mayumi Takahashi Museum of Doll Art as an excuse to explore northern Nagano.

2013.3.28 - 2013.9.24
高橋まゆみ～人形との出会い
本人の創作人形のスタートから人形館の開館へ辿り着いた道の紹介。（その途中はこの千曲市の稲荷山蔵し館の個展もあった。そこで私が本人の人形と出会った。）
Mayumi Takahashi's Doll Art Encounter
Display shows the road Takahashi-san took from first starting out with doll art to opening her own museum.
(Along the way, she had an exhibit here in Chikuma City at the Inariyama Kurashikan. That was where I first encountered her art.)

2013.9.26 - 2014.3.25
人形ができるまで
ただの粘土から可愛い表情の人形までの手順を表現する。
From Clay to Doll Art
Exhibit describes the process Takahashi-san takes in transforming plain clay into these dolls with such fascinating expressions.

毎月１５日 The 15th of Every Month 10:00-12:00
高橋まゆみさん在館日 Meet the Artist in Person

高橋まゆみ人形館 Mayumi Takahashi Museum of Doll Art

北信温泉巡りの3目の湯：　栄村「トマトの国」

当たり？外れ？

心情的な理由から「当たり」。

と言うのは、2012年3月11日の東北地震の次の朝、栄村中心にｍ７の地震があった。その時に、日帰り温泉施設「トマトの国」の奥の山が崩れて、建物が潰される所でした。しかし、杉の木の林に守られて、建物が残りました。それでも修理は一年間ちょっとかかりました。

復興の頑張りでトマトの国を応援したくなる訳。

お湯は弱アルカリ性単純泉、無色透明、微塩味、無臭で、温度はぬるめの37℃。塩の味は分からなかったけど逆に何となく油の匂いはした様な気がする。つい最近にこの近くの松之山温泉（新潟県十日町）に行ったばかりなので、そのお湯の油の匂いの想いだけだったかもしれない。

施設は鉄筋コンクリートであまりセクシーじゃない。三角の窓から外の森が見えてユニークだな。浴場の壁にひびが入っていた。地震の関係かな？

トマトの国は食堂も宿泊施設もあり、車で3分にさかえクラブスキー場があり。

個人的に、栄村の温泉は秋山郷の切明温泉が一番好き。川の中で自然にわいてきて、自分で石をどけて浴場を作ると言うワイルドな温泉が大好き。（場所は秘湯通り、とんでもないところですが…）

しかし、地震復興で栄村を応援したい方にはトマトの国がお勧めです。

Northern Nagano Onsen Hopping Trip, stop #3: Tomato no Kuni in Sakae Village.

Was it a hit or miss?

Well, for sentimental reasons, I declare it a hit.

On March 11th, 2011, northeastern Japan was hit with a massive earthquake. At 3:59 the next morning, there was a magnitude 7 earthquake centered in Nagano Prefecture's Sakae Village. The earthquake caused a huge landslide just above the Tomato no Kuni bathhouse. Fortunately, the building was protected by a stand of cedar trees, and survived pretty much intact. It had to be closed for a little over a year for renovations, but is now once again open for business.

So in the spirit of rebuilding after the earthquake, I think Tomato no Kuni deserves 'hit' status.

Meaning 'tomato country', Tomato no Kuni's onsen water is slightly alkaline, a lukewarm 37 deg C, clear, no color, slight salt taste, no smell. That's what the brochure and signs say, but I personally couldn't taste and saltiness, and on the other hand, I detected a faint oily smell. It could have been just that I had recently been to Matsunoyama Onsen on the other side of the Nagano-Niigata border and its oily scented water was still fresh in my mind.

Tomato no Kuni's building is a decidely un-sexy ferroconcrete structure. The men's bath did have a funky triangle-shaped window that gave a peek of the forest outside. There is also a cafeteria as well as rooms for overnight accommodation. And Sakae Club Ski Area is only 3 minutes away by car.

Personally, my favorite onsen in Sakae Village is Kiriake Onsen in the Akiyama Gorge. The mineral water bubbles up naturally in the river bed, and you move rocks around to create your own bath. Very wild!

But if you're interested in helping to support Sakae Village's post-earthquake rebuilding efforts, then a sentimental dip in Tomato no Kuni's bath may be just the thing.

トマトの国 Tomato no Kuni
〒389-2702 長野県下水内郡栄村北信4413-1
Tel(0269)87-3030

当たり外れの飯山市・栄村温泉巡りの第2ヶ所：　いいやま湯滝温泉。

大当たりです！

温泉施設の世界の中で、場所を考えないで設計する事が多い。湯滝温泉は千曲川沿いの一を生かして、川のゆとりをたっぷり取り組んだ。

久しぶりに良い温泉に行ったって感じ。

説明させてください。

湯質は実は、大したお湯じゃない。単純泉の弱アルカリ(pH 8.32）で無色無味無臭。（温度はちょうど良い40℃ぐらいでした。）

でも、良いです。湯質にうるさい私にとっては湯滝温泉の第一印象は：　洒落ている。
受付の方の和服、
あちらこちらに手書きの注意書きではなくクラシックなフォントの丁寧な看板、
廊下と所々に飯山の伝統の「内山和紙」の装飾、
内風呂の千曲川の眺める大きな窓、
内風呂の地元の子供達の手作業で出来た壁画、
露天風呂の雪景色に合う庭園、
露天風呂石積み滝の湯口、
露天風呂の立派なハリを使った屋根、
拘ったメニューの食堂と川を眺めるテーブル、

どこ見てもお洒落！

言うのは失礼かもしれないけど、公社経営だととっても思えないお洒落な作り。なおかつ、大人500円と言う料金は安いか、同じ料金であるそから中の不潔な温泉施設が高いか。

飯山線上境駅から２００ｍと言う便利なアクセスだし。

湯滝温泉は長野県トップ100温泉の上位に入ると思った。

2nd stop on our recent northern Nagano hit-or-miss onsen tour: Iiyama City's Yutaki Onsen.

This was a huge hit!

In the world of day-use onsen facilities, it is really rare for the location and the architecture to take into account the setting. Yutaki Onsen on the other hand takes full advantage of its setting along the Chikuma River.

This was the first time in a while to experience A Really Good Onsen.

Allow me to explain.

First of all, the onsen water. Actually, their wasn't that much mineral content in the water. It was colorless, taste-less, smell-less, with the redeeming feature being that it was slightly alkalid (pH 8.32), and that the temperature was perfect for bathing, approx. 40 Deg C.

But that's okay. For me, a real snob when it comes to the quality of the onsen water, the primary impression I had of Yutaki was its overall classical style.

The lady at the entrance dressed in classy Japanese-style clothes.
No sloppy hand-written signs, only classy, professionally made ones with classic font.
Ample use of the local Uchiyama washi hand-made Japanese-style paper for the interior decorations.
A hefty picture-window for the indoor bath providing a beautiful view of the Chikuma River flowing by.
Murals on the walls of the indoor bath made by local school children.
A beautiful garden for the outdoor bath that looked beautiful with its covering of snow.
Yutaki's trademark 'taki' (waterfall) feature for the 'yu' to flow into the outdoor bath.
And an eating area with an elegant view of the river and the blue Yutaki Bridge and a restaurant featuring local cuisine.

Everywhere you look, classy elegance.

Located only 200 meters from Kamisakai Station on the JR Iiyama Line, access is a snatch. And with the price for adults only 500 yen, either Yutaki is really inexpensive or all the other similarly priced onsens with significantly less charm and thought are overpriced.

Not only does Yutaki Onsen make Nagano's Top 100, it has to be near the top of the list!

いいやま湯滝温泉 Iiyama Yutaki Onsen

長野県のトップ100温泉プロジェクトの調べ作業が続いています。友人のＰｅｔｅｒさんの英語の本はほぼ完成で、仕上がりの関係で飯山と栄村の温泉に行ってきました。まずは：

戸狩温泉　暁の湯　（飯山市）

戸狩温泉に日帰り施設は2つあります：　暁の湯と望の湯。
以前は自分が家族を連れて望みの湯に入ったので、全体の雰囲気を気に入った。ただ、その日は露天風呂が閉じてあって、入れなかったのが残念だった。（Ｐｅｔｅｒさんが行った時に露天風呂には入れて、トップ100だと判断したそうです。）
ただ、望の湯はスキーシーズン営業のみで、通年営業の暁の湯を掲載する様に言われたもので、今回はＰｅｔｅｒと私の長野トップ100温泉チームで入りに行きました。

その判断は？

まあ、当たり外れがある中で、

外れ！

湯質はｐＨが高い(8.50)割りに肌が思ったほどすべすべにならなかった。香りはかった。色は微黄色で、特に露天風呂の方に茶色湯花が沢山浮いていたからただの水道水ではなくて温泉だとの事は確実だ。ただ、温泉の香りがないと私には物足りないな。（ごめんね、厳しくて。）
しかし、「外れ」の理由はそれじゃない。
温度は内湯が熱め（42℃？）で長く入れなく、
露天風呂は雪のせいか、ぬるくて（37℃？）で逆に上がれなかった。でも、それは許す。人それぞれだし。（この上からの目線は何？）
何が「外れ」かというと、プラスチックバンブーが多過ぎて、尚且つ所々に割れていた事と、
露天風呂からの眺めは「山と田舎に囲まれたおらほうの湯」や「日本の原風景を思わせるのどかな田園の中の温泉」と言っている割にその噂の景色は塀でブロックされていて、
唯一見えるのは派手の激しいネオンサインでした。

アウト！

望の湯の方はその景色が見えるので、冬期間営業だけかもしれないけど、望の方はトップ100だな。

じゃ、グリーンシーズンで戸狩で温泉はどうすれば良い？
車で10分ぐらいの所に湯滝温泉がある。同じ500円なら、千曲川の景色や設備・雰囲気は完全に暁の湯よりお勧め。

（暁の湯さん、その塀は景色が見えるように工夫し、プラスチックではなくて天然な素材を使って、激しいネオン看板が丸見えの場所から移せば、トップ100になるのではないですか？）

In researching Nagano's Top 100 Onsens (it's a tough job, but somebody's gotta do it), and helping my buddy Peter finish his book on the subject, we had to fill in a few more details. Hence, a trip to Nagano's northernmost city and village, Iiyama and Sakae.

First stop: Akatsuki no Yu in Iiyama City's Togari Onsen.

In Togari Onsen, there are two day-use onsen bathhouses, Nozomi no Yu and Akatsuki no Yu.

Both Peter and I had been to Nozomi on separate occasions. I enjoyed it for its ambience, but unfortunately the outdoor bath was closed when I went. Peter also liked it enough to include in his Top 100 book. However, we got word that Nozomi was only open during the ski season, and to include Akatsuki (which is open year-round) instead.

Hence, our trip to snowy Iiyama to check out Akatsuki.

In the world of onsens, there are hits and there are misses.

Akatsuki, unfortunately, is a big miss.

The onsen water didn't have any particular smell, but it did have a yellowish tint and at least the outdoor bath had 'yu-bana' (flakes of onsen minerals), proof that this wasn't just ordinary tapwater. For me, though, lack of an onsen smell is disappointing. (Yes, I'me an onsen snob.)

But that's not the reason Akatsuki is a miss.

The water temperature was a bit too hot (42C?) for the indoor bath and, perhaps due to the snow, too cool (37C?) for the outdoor one. But everyone has their own personal preferences so I withhold judgement in that regards.

No, the reason Akatsuki is a fail is for the heaps of fake plastic bamboo used all over, and not only that, but it is noticeably cracked in places. And furthermore, there is a huge, garish neon sign towering over the bath. Akatsuki promotes itself as having a view of the peaceful countryside and mountains, but all of that is blocked by a fence, leaving the neon monstrosity as the most noticeable feature.

Use natural materials for your bath surround, change the fence so it allows views of the highly-touted picturesque countryside, and move that darn sign, and Akatsuki would make the Top 100. Meanwhile, stick with Nozomi. What about in the green season? 10 minutes down the road is Yutaki Onsen, which, for the same 500 yen price, offers a much better view (this one overlooking the Chikuma River) and has much more elegant facilities. See the next entry.

戸狩温泉Togari Onsen