109才のお祝い獅子舞 Lion Dance for a 109-year old

2012.01.18: 上山田お神楽 Kamiyamada Lion Dance

Bringing Lion Power to an Old Folks Home

109歳。

明治生まれやで。

そんな方のお誕生日お祝いで私ども上山神楽保存会は上田市の老人ホーム「御所苑へお出かけました。

私がオヤジになって老人施設に入っていて、自分の誕生日の為に獅子舞があればうれしい。

その109歳のお祖母さんも喜んでくれたようです。目が笑っていました。

109 years old.

That means being born around the turn of LAST century!

My fellow members of the Kamiyamada Kagura lion dance troupe paid a visit to the Goshoen old folks home in nearby Ueda City to help celebrate the birthday of a 109 year old lady.

When I get old and end up in an old folks home, I'd sure be happy if a lion dance performance were held for my birthday.

This 109 year old lady seemed pretty happy, too. I could see her joy in her eyes.

上山田神楽保存会 Kamiyamada Kagura Lion Dance Troupe





長野の「温泉」調査: 霊泉寺 Researching Nagano's Onsens: Reisen-ji

2012.01.17: 活動 Activities

Reisenji Onsen's townscape

以前に書いた様に、仲間のPeterさんが長野の温泉を紹介する英字電子本を作っています。亀清の海外からのお客様に役に立つと思っていて、調査に色々な協力しています。という事で私も長野の温泉をもっと詳しく知りたい。先日は鹿教湯温泉へ行った帰り、近辺の霊泉寺温泉に寄ってみました。

信州とっておきブログによると、「鹿教湯温泉・大塩温泉・霊泉寺温泉をまとめて丸子温泉郷と呼び、環境省により国民保養温泉地として指定されています。」そして、その内の大塩温泉は「信玄の隠し湯の一つで、武田側は川中島の合戦で手傷を負った兵をここで癒したと言われている」そうです。

長野の温泉を紹介する本の中でこういう歴史を伝えるのは大事ですね。

まだまだ私の勉強が足りない!しかし、「温泉」調査の作業の良い所はお風呂に入れること!

As previously mentioned, my buddy Peter-san is working on a new e-book -- an authoritative book on Nagano onsens in English. This is something that will be extremely valuable to Kamesei Ryokan's guests from overseas, so I am helping out in any and every way I can. That means I have to study up myself on Nagano's many onsens.

After my recent visit to Kakeyu Onsen, I stopped to see neighboring Reisenji Onsen for the first time. According to another authoritative blog, Shinshu Totteoki, Kakeyu, Reisenji and nearby Oshio onsens are collectively called the Maruko onsen district and are registered as a National Public Convalescence Onsen District. Furthermore, Oshio Onsen was where Warring States era samurai hero Takeda Shingen took his troops for post-battle rejuvination.

Here at Kamesei, the majority of our Japanese guests only spend 1 night. At convalescence onsens, it is more common to spend a week. The hot spring waters are cooler (typical bath temperatures are 37 deg C, compared with 40~42 for ours) faciliting long soaks in the mineral waters.

As for the history, Togura Kamiyamada Onsen wasn't even around when Takeda Shingen was fighting the Kawanakajima series of battles with archrival Uesugi Kenshin.

These are the types of things I'm hoping get included in Peter's upcoming book.

There is so much to learn about Nagano onsens. At least the learning includes getting to soak in lots of great onsen baths!






朝飯前に2つの餅つき大会 Pounding Mochi Twice -- Before Breakfast

2012.01.16: 季節 Seasons

Lion-approved mochi pounding

日曜日の朝に餅つき大会は2つにも参加しました。

お客様のお布団を上げてから、鹿教湯温泉へ飛んで行きました。上山田神楽保存会は鹿教湯の斎藤ホテルに呼ばれて、ロビーで獅子舞を演奏しました。その後、餅つき大会が行われました。

それが終わってから上山田に戻って、銀座通り商店街の餅つき大会に行きました。つく作業には間に合わなかったけど、出来立てのお餅を美味しく頂くにはちゃんと間に合いました。

嬉しかったのは(美味しいお餅以外)
上山田お神楽の活動と
銀座通りの皆様の努力。

2012年の良い始まり!

One of Japan's New Years traditions is 'mochi-tsuki'. You basically pound mochi rice with a heavy wooden mallet to make sticky rice sweets.

Sunday morning I participated in 2 such events. After flipping our guests' futons, I flew off to Kakeyu an onsen about 33km from here. Venerable Saito Hotel hosted the Kamiyamada Okagura Preservation Group for a lion dance performance in their lobby. After the dance, the hotel staff put on a mochi making event which we participated in.

As soon as the was finished, I drove back to Kamiyamada to catch the tail end of our onsen town's Ginza Dori neighborhood's annual mochi making event. While I didn't make it in time to pound rice, I did get there in time to eat the freshly-made mochi.

What thrilled me the most about that morning (besides getting to eat yummy mochi) was
the Kamiyamada lion dance troupe being so active,
and the Ginza Dori association continuing its efforts to liven up the town.

A great start to 2012!

鹿教湯温泉の斎藤ホテル Saito Hotel in Kakeyu



Ginza Dori's mochi event


千曲市の初めてのインバウンド研修会 Chikuma City's 1st Inbound Study Session

2012.01.15: 活動 Activities

Mr. Tokyo Banana (?) Shimizu-sensei's talk

千曲市の初めてのインバウンド研修会が今週末に行われました。近藤市長も参加したという事で、これからは市がインバウンドにどんどん力を入れるでしょう。

講師は立教大学の清水愼一先生でした。国道交通省「観光地域づくりプラットフォーム・人材育成検討会」座長からThe祭り東北2004実行委員長まで、さまざまな実績な方です。しかし、それより印象的なのは講演中で出てきましたが、本人が「東京バナナ」を取り上げて、成功させたそうです。

それや大きい!

先生の主のポイントは宿泊施設だけではなくて商店街や農家さん達が重要だと。

戸倉上山田温泉は商店街に関してまだ魅力的な方ではないかと思います。インバウンドが喜ばれる和服を扱っている衣料品屋さん以外に陶芸、甘露煮、信州味噌等の専門店がる。飲食店だってここはグルメ天国ぐらいに良いのが沢山あるし。

それぞれのお店は「後継ぎ問題」などの課題があるから難しいですけどね。先生が仰いました:町興しは20年先の事も考えないと駄目;若人の働く場所作りや学生に地域誇り付けとか。

農家との連携はもっともっととらなければならないと感じました。安心・安全な食材をお客様に提供するという目的はもちろんだが、先生の仰った通り、周辺の空き地を防ぐ為にもなる。

もう一つなインバウンドの面白い現象の話があった。京都で私の憧れているAlex Kerrさんが古い町家をレスキューして、観光客に一晩10万円で宿泊施設として提供している。安売りゲストハウスは雑草のように増えている(最近は京都だけではなくてこの長野県にも!)背景の中で町家の価値は海外からの観光客に理解されている。

講演中で驚いたのは「姨捨夜景ツアーはインバウンドにどう?」という質問を、何と私に振ってくれました!私の経験から応えました:「姨捨山伝説が面白いのでそのストーリーがあれば喜ばれる」と。「そうだ。うんちくがあれば、その経験・思い出は自分の物になる」と先生が賛成してくれました。

講演後、先生が挨拶してくれました。「テレビで見たけど実際に会えて良かったよ」と。私こそ、東京バナナの開発者と合えて、感心しました。

Today Chikuma City held its first-ever Inbound Study Session. Even the mayor was present, so it looks like the city is serious about attracting foreign visitors.

The speaker was Rikkyou U's Shimizu-sensei. His list of various accomplishments and appointments is impressively long. But what stood out for me was the revelation that he's the one responsible for bringing Tokyo Banana, the metropolis' ubiquitous souvenir, to fame.

Shimizu-sensei's main point was that we shouldn't just focus on accommodation and/or sightseeing places, but that local shops and farm produce are just as, if not more, important.

Our onsen town Togura-Kamiyamada has a healthy share of unique local shops, like pottery and miso. There's a clothing shop with Japanese articles popular with foreigners, a stained glass shop where visitors can make their own crafts, and so much more. For eateries, not many towns can beat Togura-Kamiyamada's selection of gourmet restaurants. And that's not to mention the entertainment -- everything from a piggy bank museum and drag show theater to real geisha.

However, each and every one of those shops likely has heavy issues to deal with, such as whether or not the next generation will come back to continue the businesses. Shimizu-sensei said it's important for the town to consider demographics 20 years from now -- to create job opportunities for graduates as well as instilling pride in the town to our school children.

Regarding supporting local farmers, not only does that allow us inns to supply the freshest and safest product to our guests, but Shimizu-sensei mentions it also keeps the farms vibrant and avoids empty fields blighting the vicinity.

I was encouraged to hear a story Shimizu-sensei shared about Kyoto. He works closely with someone I look up to, Alex Kerr, to rescue 'machiya' townhouses and turns them into places for tourists to stay -- at 10,000 yen per night! Despite the proliferation of cheap guesthouses (they've even started to show up in Nagano), guests from overseas apparently appreciate the value of these machiya.

During the talk, another participant asked about the attractivenes of the Obasute night view tour for foreigners. Sensei actually had the mike given to me for my opinion. Based on my experience with our guests, I replied that if there is a good story to go with the tour then the guests appreciate it. Sensei agreed, saying such a story makes the experience that much more personal for the participants.

After the talk, Shimizu-sensei came and said he'd seen me on television and was glad to meet me in person. I, too, was excited to meet the Tokyo Banana guy.





ケロリンとコロボ(?) 亀清旅館のプッチ温泉資料館 Kerorin Collab (?); Kamesei's Petit Onsen Museum

2012.01.14: 亀清旅館 Kamesei Ryokan

亀清旅館のお風呂の入口にちょっとした湯上りスポットを作りました。冷水(戸隠高原の湧水)と、町の姨捨夜景ツアーのちらし。

多分、普通な宿はそこで終わるでしょう。

亀清旅館はここまでくれば皆さんが分かると思いますが、とにかく普通じゃない。何かプラスαを既に目指しております。

冷水器とツアーチラシ以外に、
プッチ温泉資料館となっています。

上山田温泉の配管、温度計、歴史の本やイラスト。
石のコアも。(昔、源泉を掘った時にドリルで穴を空けたのではなくて、蒸気の機会を使ってボーリングで掘った。3年間もかかった!そこで出てきたコアを上山田温泉株式会社から頂いて、展示しています。)

まあ、大半のお客様は温泉に入って、上ったら冷たいお水を飲んで、歴史の資料を無視するでしょう。それはそれで良いです。むしろ、旅館はその為にある。

しかし、温泉に興味ある方は集まった資料をたまに見てくれます。

ちなみに、このプッチギャラリーを作った時に、遊び心でケロリンの桶を利用しました。それこそ「温泉!」という事ですね。

Here at Kamesei Ryokan, we created a little rest spot outside the entrances to our onsen baths. Besides a water cooler (featuring spring water from the Togakushi highlands), we also have up a flier on our town's Obasute Night View Tour.

Normal inns would probably stop there. But as you have probably figured out by now, Kamesei Ryokan is no normal inn. We try to do the little things, the '+α' that make a difference.

So our rest station outside the baths is also a petit onsen history museum for Kamiyamada Onsen.

Actual onsen pipes, thermometers, diagrams of onsen well boring rigs,

even an solid stone core piece.

100 years ago when the onsen wells were dug, rather than drilling a hole as is done today they constructed a oil-rig like tower and used a steam engine to bore out the holes. It took upo to 3 years to drill one hole!

Anyways, the Onsen Company gave me one of the actual core pieces.

Of course, the majority of our guests simply enjoy soaking in the onsen baths and maybe have a drink of cold water afterwards, ignoring the history display. That's fine. In fact, onsen-ing and relaxing is what an inn like ours is for.

But for the few people who are interested in the history of the onsen, our display can be quite fascinating.

By the way, as you can see in the picture I used yellow "Kerorin" onsen buckets to support the shelves -- just one more +α onsen touch.


Peruse at your Pleasure: Kamesei's Petit Onsen Museum


Chikuma City travel guide now available in hard copy!

2012.01.13: 活動 Activities

千曲市駐在仲間のPeterさんの書いた本がなお実物の本になりました。今まで電子本しかなかった「長野ハイキング・ウォーキング・サイクリングシリーズ 千曲市の自然、歴史と文化20コース」の本は本物の本として買うようになりました。

クリエートスペース(物作り場所)という、アマゾン社(amazon.com)に関連している会社で出来た。普通な出版社は本を沢山印刷して、販売する。このやり方はオーダー(注文)プリント(印刷)です。注文してから印刷されて、郵送されると言う方法。多少高くつくし、作家のPeterさんの利益が薄いけど、お金をかけないで本が出来ると言うのはすごい!

電子本
オーダープリント

こういう時代になってきた。その流れを先に乗ってきたのはPeterさんのお蔭でなんと、戸倉上山田温泉と千曲市の本!

My fellow ex-pat living here in Togura-Kamiyamada, Peter-san has taken his new book,
"Hiking, Walking and Biking Nagano
20 Nature, History and Culture Tours in Chikuma City"
to the next level. It has been available as an E-Book for the past month. Now it is also available as a hard copy book, too.

Thanks to Amazon.com's CreateSpace, Peter's book is available via print-to-order. While most books are printed in massive lots by the publisher and then sold, this new system allows niche books like Peter's to be printed with no set-up costs.

E-books
Print-to-order

These are exciting times in the publishing world. And riding the crest is Peter and his travel book for Chikuma City and Togura-Kamiyamada Onsen!

https://www.createspace.com/3729899




稲荷山街並み 展示@屋代駅 Inariyama's Townscape -- Display at Yashiro Station

2012.01.12: 温泉タウン戸倉上山田 Onsen Town Togura-Kamiyamada

Inariyama 'kura' display at Yashiro Station

千曲市稲荷山地区の「蔵の街」の雰囲気が大好きです。土壁の蔵は何となく時代を感じると言うか時代を超える風情がある。

しかし、その風情をどうやって守っていくのかが問題です。

守るように努力している稲荷山街並み委員会の高村さんから連絡が入りました。15日の12:00頃まで屋代駅の中の市民ギャラリースペースで稲荷山の街並みの写真など展示会を開催している。ぜひ見に行って下さい。

(高村さん、蚕棚の使い方はナイス!)

Chikuma City's Inariyama neighborhood is known as a 'kura' town thanks to all of the classic earthen-walled kura storehouses that remain. The townscape has a timeless feel to it thanks to the kura.

However, preserving the kura is a major issue for our town.

One group that is working hard at that is the Inariyama Townscape Committee. Takamura-san, the chairman, contacted me to let me know he has a display of photographs and artifacts from Inariyama showing at the gallery inside Yashiro Station. The display will be up through Sunday 15-Jan. noon. If you get a chance, please go and see it. Hopefully the display will raise awareness of the need to preserve these kura.

稲荷山街並み委員会Inariyama Townscape Committee







長野の温泉 英字電子本の為の研究 Nagano Onsen's: Researching for an E-Book

2012.01.11: 活動 Activities

Takizawa-sensei talking onsen to Peter

戸倉上山田の駐在仲間Peterさんが次の本を作り始まりました。既に「千曲市のハイキング、ウォーキング、サイクリング歴史・文化・自然20コース」の電子本を出版したし、同じく上田市周辺のは半分出来ている(春にならないと山登りの調査は出来ない)。

今度は温泉で恵まれている長野県のトップ100温泉を紹介する本を出版する予定です。

亀清旅館の海外のお客さんで「温泉」に興味ある方が多いです。秘湯とか野天風呂とか紹介する情報は日本人向けで日本語の本は沢山あるけど、英語圏の方の為にその道具が必要です。

従って、私が全面的に協力しています。今回はアポを取って、Peterさんを連れて上山田温泉資料館に行きました。その滝沢先生が親切に温泉の詳しい事 地理、歴史、引っ張り出し方など等 を教えてくれました。3時間も打ち合わせしました。(滝沢先生に感謝!)

ちなみに、参考に私なりの長野県温泉トップ100のリストを作ってみました。下記に載せますので皆様が目を通して頂いて、「こういう所を載せないと駄目」の様なご意見があれば、是非教えてください。

My fellow ex-pat here in Togura-Kamiyamada, Peter-san has started writing his 3rd guide book for the area. His first, "Hiking, Walking and Biking Nagano: 20 Nature, History and Culture Tours in Chikuma City" is already available as an e-book. The 2nd in that series will be about Ueda City and surrounds. The work is currently in hiatus until spring so additional mountain hikes can be researched.

His 3rd will be about Nagano' onsens. There are many publications out there in Japanese for Japanese people about the various remote onsens, or baths with panoramic views, etc., etc. But judging from the foreigners that stay at Kamesei Ryokan, that information would be useful for English speakers, too. So I have been helping any way I can to assist Peter in his endeavors.

That's how we found ourselves at the Kamiyamada Onsen Museum. I scheduled an appointment and Peter and I had the privelege of Takizawa-sensei giving us an in-depth description of Nagano's onsens -- the geology, the history, the mechanics, etc.

For consideration, I compiled my list of Nagano's top 100 onsen features. I would gladly welcome comments for addition / changes to the list.

Peterさんの千曲市の本 Peter's Chikuma City book



Comments / Opinions Wanted


信州のお正月: どんど焼きと八日堂 New Years Tradtions in Nagano: Dondo Yaki & Yokado

2012.01.10: その他 Miscellaneous

My Nagano life, in sominshouraifu (guess which year I skipped to go to Disneyland)

先週の週末に2つの大事な信州のお正月行事に参加しました。
7日土曜日の夜は上田市にある信州国分寺の八日堂縁日
と9日月曜日のこの上山田温泉地区のどんど焼き。

この二つの行事に参加したら、この新しい年が始まったとやっと感じます。

国分寺の八日堂は七日の夜に一番盛り上がります。寒い冬の夜(今年は-7℃だった!)でお参りして、市場でだるまを買って(皆、交渉が上手だな!)、露天商でたこ焼きなどを食べて(今年はオムレツフランクフルトとデビューしました!)、
そしてこの日でしか手には入れない蘇民将来符(そみんしょうらいふ)お守りを買う。
今年は4番目の大きさを買いました。来年はまた1番目の大きさから始まります。今まで買った蘇民将来符を並んでみたら自分の長野での人生が分かり、私にとっては意味の深いシンボルです。

どんど焼きも違う意味で奥深い行事です。千曲川沿いの公園でだるまや竹など、お正月で使った飾りを燃やすのは印象的ですが、それより近所の皆様と挨拶して、一緒にお酒を飲んで、焼き立てのお餅を食べて、とにかく「一緒になる」という所がポイントです。町興しはこうで、夏祭りはああでではなく、ただ単に「仲間だ」との事。

私はその仲間に入れさせて頂いて、幸せです。

2012年は良い年になる様に!

Here in Nagano, we have a couple of celebrations on the first weekend of the year that, without which, the year doesn't really start.

This past Saturday was Ueda City's Kokubun-Ji Temple's Yokado festival, and the holiday Monday was our neighborhood's 'dondo-yaki' bonfire.

Yokado is mainly celebrated in the evening on January 7th. Everyone gathers in the cold (it was -7C this year!) to pay their respects at the temple, then buys a dharma doll at the dharma market (those guys really know how to bargain with you!), and buy some fried octopus balls or something at one of the food stands (I tried an omelet-frankfurter for the first time). Most important, though, is buying a "sominshouraifu", a hand carved and painted wooden object that supposedly wards off evil and beckons good luck for the new year.
For me, though, these talismans are a symbol of my life here in Nagano. This year, I bought the 4th one, the biggest size. Next year I start over at the 1st one, the smallest. When lined up, the sominshouraifu are a visual reminder to me of how long I've been here.

On Monday, the "Coming of Age Day" holiday, everyone from our Kamiyamada Onsen neighborhood gathered at the park along the Chikuma river, piled up all the spent New Years decorations, and had a bonfire. While the fire is a sensual treat, it is the bonding with the neighbors over sake and fresh-roasted mochi sticky rice that is so meaningful for me. Forget all the civic improvement meetings and the summer festival worries, it is a time for simply slapping a neighbor on the back, wishing them a happy new year, seeing how their children have grown, and having a sake with them.

I feel fortunate to have this community here to bond with!

信濃国分寺 Shinano Kokubun-Ji Temple



With Andy braving the -7C temp's at Yokado


The Dondo Yaki pyre


Happy New Year sake and mochi


忍者屋敷の地下室で夕食? Dinner in a Ninja Lair's Basement?

2012.01.09: グルメFoodie

Dinner in a ninja room

「忍者」は伝説や映画の世界ですよね。

だったら、あの壁にかけてある鎮鎌はなんですか?そして、天井ならぶら下がっている刀は?

こんな不気味な所で家族で夕食?

長野駅近辺の「ごとく亭」です。駅から歩いて5分の大成アビナスビルの地下と言う秘密的な場所で、信州の代表の料理を出しながらオーナーの宮下さんのもう片っ方の人生が…

忍者!

戸隠道。

信じてくれない?本人に聞いてごらん。

しかし、その前は長野でしか食べれないのをごちそう!
馬刺し?5種類。
蝗や蜂の子?もちろん。
地酒?メニューにたっぷりあるけど、裏メニューも是非聞いてみてください。

私ども家族の気に入りのお店で、今回は「忍者部屋」が新しく出来て、なお楽しめた。

Ninjas are just a work of fiction, or something out of the movies, right?

Then, what's that nasty scythe doing on the wall? And why is there a katana hanging from the ceiling?

This must be Gotoku-tei, a restaurant in the basement (of course) of Taisei Abinasu Bldg. 5 minutes from Nagano Station. The owner, Miyashita-san, when he isn't serving the best of Nagano Prefecture's cuisine, practices the art of ninjutsu.

Togakure style.

Don't believe me? Just ask him. But not before indulging in his only-in-Nagano specialties.

Raw horse meat? Served 5 ways.
Grilled locusts and bee larvae? Of course.
And to wash it down, local sake? Not only a wide selection on the menu, but ask for their off-the-menu choices, too.

Gotoku-tei has always been one of our family's favorite restaurants. Now with their new ninja room, we enjoyed it even more!

ごとく亭 Gotoku-Tei