長野に来る1166理由 1166 Reasons to come to Nagano

2011.02.10: 活動 Activities

With Iimuro-san in front of her 1166 Backpackers guesthouse

三か月前に、長野市善光寺の近くにバックパッカー用の宿泊施設が出来ました:1166バックパッカーズ。昨日、オーナーの飯室織江さんに挨拶しに行ってみました。

1166バックパッカーズは長野市の初めてのゲストハウス。善光寺の大門の近辺と言う便利な場所。金額は相部屋で2600円からと言う手ごろの値段。お客の半分が海外からだそうです。

飯室さん自身は海外旅行経験者で旅ココロを持っている熱心な方です。宿の部屋とかお風呂場を見せて頂きましたが、うんとシンプルです。しかし、旅が大好きな飯室さんの気合いと言う印象が一番のころました。

実を言うと、近くに低価格の宿泊施設が出来てしまえば、亀清旅館にどういう影響があるか、心配でした。しかし、良くある現象は亀清に泊まってから1166さんに泊まるとか、1166さんに泊まってから亀清に来たとかと言うお客さんが数人いました。

つまり、長野県に1泊する予定は、ゲストハウスも出来たお蔭で2泊する事になったケースが見えてきました。恐らく、東京からの日帰りの予定は1166さんのお蔭で長野に泊まる事が出来たでしょうし。実際はその逆のケースもある:1166さんに滞在しながら、日帰りで東京へ買い物しに行く客もいるそうです。新幹線なら、1時間40分で行っちゃえる。

そう思うと、今までは長野市のゲストハウスがなかったとのは不思議です。飯室さん、有難うございました。

Three months ago, a guesthouse opened in Nagano City near Zenkoji Temple: 1166 Backpackers. Yesterday I paid a visit and met the owner, Iimuro-san.

1166 Backpackers is Nagano City's first guesthouse. It is conveniently located near Zenkoji's Daimon gate. Prices are very reasonable, starting at 2,600 yen for a dormitory bed. Half of their guests are from overseas.

Iimuro-san herself has travelled extensively overseas and thus shares an appreciation for travel with her guests. The facilities are rather simple, but after getting a tour of the rooms the greatest impression I was left with was Iimuro-san's enthusiasm.

To be honest, when I first heard a low-priced accommodation was opening up nearby, I was worried about the impact it would have here at Kamesei Ryokan. What I've come to find, however, is that there are guests who stay at 1166 before or after a night at Kamesei.

In other words, there are travellers who had probably only intended on staying 1 night in Nagano, but thanks to the existence of 1166, they stayed 2 nights. There are probably people who otherwise would have made Nagano a day trip from Tokyo but thanks to 1166, extended their stay and spent a night. In fact, Iimuro-san said she's had guests that stayed multiple nights at 1166 and made day trips in to Tokyo for shopping. With the Nagano Shinkansen making the trip in just 1 hour 40 minutes, that is certainly doable.

When you think about it, it's surprising that before 1166 there were no guesthouses in Nagano City. Thank you, Iimuro-san, for your contribution.

1166のHPはこちらClick here for 1166's website.







「地獄へ道づれ」in稲荷山 "Another One Bites the Dust" in Inariyama

2011.02.09: 青い目のおもてなし This American’s Omotenashi

Another Inariyama 'kura' biting the dust

千曲市に稲荷山という町があります。善光寺街道の宿場だったころからの土壁の蔵は残っている、風情のある街です。市の観光資料の中に必ず載っていますが、実際行ってみて、がっかりする方が多いそうです。なぜなら、崩れてきてボロボロな蔵が多いからです。

個人的に私はこのままの土蔵が十分魅力あると思っています。逆に、Disneylandの様に表面だけを綺麗にしたら面白くない。しかし、土蔵の持ち主に何かの支援をしないと、個人だけじゃ土蔵の修理は無理でしょう。

以前に稲荷山を守ろう位としている仲間と市長に陳情した事があります。行政の協力がないと、無理という事;今の内に手を付けないと、土蔵が消えるよと。

その時に、市長がの一言:
「今の内」と言われてもネ… 皆は必ずそう言うよ
と否定されました。

と言いながら、今日、稲荷山と通ったら、また一つな土蔵の壊しの工事が行われていました。

近藤市長の任期の間に、稲荷山の土蔵は何件がつぶされたでしょうか?その責任は?

Here in Chikuma City, we have a neighborhood called Inariyama. It started out as a way station on the old Zenkoji Road connecting now-Nagano City and Matsumoto. Many of the original earthen-walled storehoses still exist, and the city always includes the area on its sightseeing brochures. However, many people who go see it come away disappointed. That's because a lot of the storehouses are in a crumbling state of disrepair.

Personally, I like the townscape the way it is now, and prefer it to a Disney-fied version with an impeccably maintained surface. But I realize that efforts need to be made to refurbish the storehouses. For the private owners, however, such maintenance is prohibitively expensive. Help from the government is required.

Some buddies of mine and I went to petition the mayor for just such assistance. We told him that the city has to act now before the storehouses disappear, that it's now or never.

The mayor's response?
"They've been saying 'Now or never' from a way long time ago, and will be saying that far into the future, too."
In other words, he blew us off.

Well, mayor, I drove through Inariyama today, and guess what I saw? Another storehouse being demolished. Just how many of these 'kura' will have disappeared under your watch? Who's responsibility is that?

この地獄へ道連れの詳しくはこちら。More about this 'kura' biting the dust here.





現代ラーメンのトレンド The new ramen-joint

2011.02.08: グルメFoodie

FBI Ramen

先月は松代の「男気ラーメン」に行きました。渋い外観にカウンターの内側の格好良いお兄さんにごつい豚骨ラーメン。

その後、佐久市の文蔵と言うラーメンさんに行ってみた。渋い外観にカウンターの内側の格好良いお兄さんにごつい豚骨ラーメン。その上に、お兄さんのラーメン作りは半分パフォーマンスで掛け声で盛り上がっていました。

そして、週末に上田市の話題になっているF.B.I.と言うラーメン屋さんに行ってみた。噂通り、30分待たされた。それぐら人気がある。渋い外観、格好お兄さんたち(格好お姉さんも一人いた)、ごつい豚骨ラーメン。なおかつ、その掛け声。(後で分かったけど、FBIと文蔵が兄弟店です。)

現代ラーメンのトレンドはお分かりでしょうか?

As reported earlier, last month I went to 'Otoko-gi' (Man-Spirit) Ramen in Matsushiro. Cool, dark exterior with a stylish dude behind the counter making the noodles, and thick pork-based soup for the noodles.

More recently, I checked out Bunzoh Ramen in Saku City. Again, a cool, dark exterior with a stylish dude behind the counter making the noodles, and thick pork-based soup for the noodles. This time with the staff shouting out 'Seei' in time with the noodle chef's antics.

And last weekend, it was time for F.B.I. Ramen in Ueda City. I had heard the place is so popular you have to wait a half an hour for your ramen. We waited. And it was worth it. More of the same -- cool, dark exterior with a stylish dude (this time, a cool chick) behind the counter making the noodles, and thick pork-based soup for the noodles. And more 'Seei'. I found out later that Bunzoh and FBI are part of the same 'junk noodle' syndicate.

So, do you get an idea of what today's trendy ramen is like?

文蔵とFBIの親会社、junk noodleのHPはこちらClick here for the website for FBI and Bunzoh's parent company, junk noodle.



Bunzoh's exterior


Bunzoh's cool staff and interior


junk noodles


Expat New Year party

2011.02.07: 青い目のおもてなし This American’s Omotenashi

Orangutans and Natto over eggplant oyaki and cold beer -- You had to have been there.

Expatの新年会?

オーストリア人の木細工師、米国人のコンサルタント、ハンガリー人の陶芸家、そしてこの青い目の旅館若旦那。

皆が戸倉上山田温泉の周辺に住んでいる外国人だ。七福と言うおやき屋さんで集まって、なんちゃった新年会をやりました。亀清に2週間ぐらい滞在しているオーストラリア人の研究家三人と、陶芸家のAgnesさんの旦那さん、版画家のFumioさんも一緒になって、皆で冷たいビールを飲みながら、アツアツ焼きたてのおやきで盛り上がりました。

海外に住む経験のあるFumioさんが言ってくれました:日本に住んでいる外国人は色々なストレスがある;日本人には理解が出来ない。偶にこういうお互いに理解できる人たちの集まりが必要。他の付き合いは沢山あるから頻繁に集まれないけど、偶にね。

ちなみに、Fumioさんの新作版画展「色彩の幻想」は上田市にあるギャラリー駒で2月23日(水)から28日(月)まで行う予定です。Agnesさんの作品がそのギャラリーの常設展示品だそうです。詳しくはHPへ。

It was like an expat 'Shin-nen kai' (New Year party). It seems like every little 'association' around is having these Shin-nen kai's. As a ryokan owner, I'm grateful as many of them are held at ryokans like ours. But most of them seem to be just another excuse to drink. Especially as they are coming off the tail of all those 'Bo-nen kai' (Forget-the-Year parties) at the end of last year. If people want to get together for a beer, why don't they just get together for a beer and not have to use an excuse of 'New Year Party'?

End of tirade and back to the story at hand.

A woodworker from Austria, a ceramic artist from Hungary, a consultant from the States, and yours truly, the blue-eyed ryokan proprietor, hooked up for a cold beer (call it a Shin-nen kai if you must) over piping hot oyaki buns at Shichifuku. We all live an work in the vicinity of Togura Kamiyamada Onsen, and have a common bond of moving here from overseas. We were joined by 3 Aussies that are staying at Kamesei for an extended time as they work on a research paper, as well as Fumio-san, the husband of ceramic artist Agnes-san.

Fumio-san, who has lived abroad himself, shared a wise tidbit of info: foreigners living in Japan have a lot of stress; stress that a Japanese person can't understand. It's important for them to get together with people who face similar stress and blow off steam every once in a while. It should be spontaneous, not a formal get-together, as everyone has enough other regular obligations in their lives.

By the way, Fumio-san's newest prints will be on display at Gallery Koma in Ueda City from Wednesday 23-Feb through Monday 28-Feb. Agnes's ceramic pieces are on permanent display there as well. Check out the gallery's website for details.





信大の学生から見た亀清旅館 College Students' Perspective on Kamesei

2011.02.06: メディア Media

信州大学の教育部で「+sunagU」と言うフリーペーパーを発行しています。12月にその関係で学生が亀清旅館に取材してくれました。1月23日発行されたVol.4で我が宿を紹介してくれました。先日に亀清二十数部が届きましたのでお客様に提供しております。

さあ、大学生から見た亀清旅館はどんな感じでしょうか?取材の時に、私なりの仕事に対するセオリーを伝えようとしました。仕事の一部を体験させたし、温泉街のサイクリングツアーしながら旅館の若旦那としての町興しの仕事も説明しました。

書いて頂いた文章や、載っている写真を見ると大分分かって頂いたようです。皆は大学を卒業してから、どんな社会人になるでしょう?楽しみですね。

In December, a group of Shinshu University students came to Kamesei and interviewed Mari and I for a free magazine they are publishing. The magazine is called "TsunagU", which means 'Connections', and Volume 4 which features Kamesei Ryokan came out on January 23rd. We just received our copies and have them out in our lobby for guests to read.

I was curious about what kind of impression the students got from when they came to report about our inn. I tried to convey my personal business theory and, via a bicycle tour around town, I showed them the various activities I and the other innkeepers are involved with for civic improvement.

Judging by the article and the pictures, I think they got the message. I wonder what type of contribution they will make to society once they have graduated college and enter the School of Life.

雑誌のHPはここです。Click here for the magazine's website.





千曲市にクライミングジムが出来た!New Climbing Gym in Chikuma City

2011.02.05: 信州の山 Nagano’s Mountains

New Rock Climing Gym

戸倉上山田温泉の近くでロッククライミングの場所がいくつかあって、恵まれている。冠着山はロッククライミングのメッカと言う人もいる。そして、ロッククライミングの練習ができる場所は温泉の近くに先月にオープンした: 「のぼりば」

しなの鉄道千曲駅から歩いて数分、国道18号沿い(温泉から車で約10分)と言う便利なところに、ロッククライミングを室内で楽しめるジムです。現在は平日の夜しか空いていないそうです。今度、子供達を連れて行ってみなきゃ!

Togura Kamiyamada Onsen is fortunate to have a lot of great rock climbing areas in the vicinity. Kamuriki Mountain right behind town is a veritable rock climbing mecca. And now, right here in Chikuma City, a new rock climbing gym opened: 'Noboriba'.

The gym is located a short walk from Chikuma Station on the local Shinano Railway line, or a quick 10 minute drive from our onsen town, conveniently situated on Route 18. Currently it is only open on weeknights from 6:30 to 11pm. But I plan on taking our kids there in the near future.

詳しくはHP Click here for the Noboriba website.







亀清旅館に鬼が来た!Kamesei Ryokan attacked by an Ogre!

2011.02.04: 季節 Seasons

Beware the Oni

昨日は大騒ぎでした。亀清旅館のロビーに鬼が入ってきました。保育園バスが寄ってから、玄関ドアから鬼が攻めてきました。

あっ、良く見たら、娘の美咲ちゃんだった!

節分は忙しい一日ですよね。お昼は戸倉上山田温泉の上のお寺さんに行き、豆負けに参加したり、夜は恵方巻きを食べたり、色々あります。(今回は南南東でした。誰がこういうのを決めるでしょう?グラウンドホグ?)

皆さんはちゃんと「鬼は外、福は内!」をちゃんとやりましたか?

Yesterday an Oni (ogre) attacked Kamesei Ryokan. Right after the Preschool bus showed up, an oni walked right into our lobby.

Wait a minute, that's just our daughter Misaki wearing an oni mask!

It's all in honor of Setsubun, the day that marks the changing of the seasons between winter and spring. In the afternoon, I took some guests up to the temple at the top of the hill behind town to participate in the celebrity bean throwing event. At night our family all ate Ehou-maki sushi rolls. "Ehou" means 'fortunate direction', and you eat the rolls facing a certain compass direction for good luck. This year it was South-Southeast. (Who decides these things -- the groundhog?)

All in all, it was a busy Setsubun.



'Twas a beautiful day for bean throwing


冬の万葉の里スポーツエリア Manyo no Sato Sports Area in the Winter

2011.02.03: 季節 Seasons

Winter Wonderland

戸倉上山田温泉の南が、千曲川沿いに万葉の里スポーツエリアがあります。野球のグラウンドやサッカーフィールド、マレットゴルフなどのスポーツ施設はありながら、川沿いに公園やラベンダー畑があり、自然も楽しめる様になっている。

今朝は近くに用事があって、寄ってみました。というのは、冬の空の空気が澄んでいて、遠くの戸隠山や高妻が綺麗に出て、公園から見てみたいと負いました。山の写真を撮ってみたが、公園の凍っている姿の方で感動しました。

「この町は何もない!」というくらい人はいます。言わせて頂けたら、何もなくて良いです。変なお工場やコンクリートの街並みじゃなく、戸倉上山田温泉はあらゆるところで驚く程な美しい景色がある。「何もない」と言っている人は見ていないだけ。



Togakushi Mountain in the Distance


信州の冬の楽しみ:雪景色の野天風呂 夜間瀬温泉「遠見乃湯」 How to Have Fun in Nagano in the Winter: Snowy Outdoor Baths Yomase Onsen 'Tomi no Yu'

2011.02.02: 長野に来る理由 Reasons to Come to Nagano

Imagine a view

外が雪となり、寒い冬に他の国では部屋に入り込んで炬燵のなかに潜りっぱなしするかもしれないけど、
信州では逆にその雪景色を抱いて、野天風呂へ行くと言う楽しみがあります。

先日は渋湯田中温泉の上の夜間瀬温泉「遠見乃湯」に初めて行ってみました。長野の野天風呂の代表の一つです。行った日は雪が降っていて、景色があまり見えなかったのは残念でしたが、子供達はお風呂の周りの雪に飛んだりお風呂に戻ったり、大喜びでした。私はその熱めのお湯で体がぽかぽかで、雪が顔にちらちらと降っていて、幸せでした。

遠見乃湯は内湯がないし、洗い場がシンプルですが、その分、野天風呂からの眺めがすばらしいです。天気の良い日は北アルプス及び善光寺平、北信五岳が見れます。信州の温泉巡りで夜間瀬温泉「遠見乃湯」に行けば信州の山景色x温泉を楽しめます。

亀清旅館・戸倉上山田温泉から車で約50分。HPはこちら。

On a snowy, cold winter day, people in other places in Japan may stay inside and bury themselves beneath the quilts of their kotatsu. Here in Nagano, we embrace the snowy scenery and head for the hills to soak in one of the many 'notenburo' -- onsen baths with scenic views.

Last weekend, I took our kids to Yomase Onsen's famous 'Tomi no Yu' for the first time. Located above Shibu Yudanaka Onsens at the entrance of the Kita-Shiga ski area, Tomi no Yu's bath features an amazing view of the Zenkoji Plain with Nagano City down below, along with glimpses of the 5 Northern Nagano Peaks as well as the Northern Alps in the distance.

The day we went, it was snowing so unfortunately we couldn't enjoy much of a view. But the kids loved hopping out of the bath, jumping in the snow surrounding the rim, then hopping back into the onsen. I, on the other hand, simply let the piping hot onsen waters warm my body to the core as snow flakes gently fell on my face.

The experience inspired a little haiku:

Soaking in the bath
Face looking up to heaven
Snow flakes gently fall

Tomi no Yu doesn't have an indoor bath, and the washing area is rather spartan, but the outdoor bath with its spectacular view makes up for it. If you want to enjoy one of Nagano's premier onsen baths with a view, then make sure to check out Tomi no Yu.

Located 50 minutes by car from Kamesei Ryokan / Togura Kamiyamada Onsen. Also accessible by bus from Nakano Station on the Nagano Dentetsu Line, or in the winter by busses from Nagano Station going up to the ski resort in Kita-Shiga. Website is here.




From the outside


冬景色の天狗さん The Togura Tengu in Winter

2011.02.01: 季節 Seasons

雪景色の千曲川を見下ろす戸倉の天狗。白い雪に天狗の赤と青色が素敵なコントラストとなっていました。ちょうど夕日を浴びてた時にお客さんと駅からの送迎のついでに行きました。

戸倉上山田温泉の美しさにまたホッとしました。

This is the Togura Tengu, our local goblin, looking down over a wintery Chikuma River valley. His red and blue coloring contrasts so vividly with the white snow on the ground. I happened to go just as the setting sun's rays streamed through the cold winter air and gave the Tengu a slight glow.

Once again, I was struck by the beauty of our onsen town, Togura Kamiyamada.

戸倉天狗



Another Angle


The sun setting over Obasute Mountain