Rich sulfur-laden onsen water pouring into Hakuchouen's 300-person "Mammoth Bath". (Just don't ask how the onsen water IN the bath is...)
長野県は温泉が沢山あって、回り切れない。近場でもまだ行った事がないのがあります。今回はその一つにデビューしました: 戸倉温泉の白鳥園。
白鳥園は我が亀清から歩いて15分の距離なのに、
そして超有名（ＴＤＬとかできる前の時代で遊園地の様な役割だったようで、ご年配の皆は白鳥園の事を懐かしく語る）なのに、
今回は私の初めてだった。
建物は一昔の造りで、実は千曲市が新しい建物を作って、今のを約一年後取り壊す予定だそうです。「今の内じゃないと」と思って、家族で行ってみました。
まずは、温泉評論家臭い印象:
お湯は上山田と似ている単純硫黄泉なので、湯口から流れるお湯はとっても良い香りがする。ただ、湯船は循環で薬を入れているせいか、湯質があまり感じないのは残念だった。
と言っても、温度が入りやすい４０℃前後、湯船はいくつかを楽しめる。代表的な広い内風呂は「マンモス風呂」とも言われているぐらい広い。（３００人が入れるそうです。）でかい岩の露天風呂も快適。後は泡風呂、寝湯と水風呂のもう３つの内風呂もサウナもある。
お風呂上りは
食堂（ニンニクたれの焼き鳥が名物）、
１００円のゲームセンター （モグラたたきで私が今日のハイスコアが出来た！）、
卓球、
カラオケ、
売店、
色々あります。（それぞれの営業時間が異になるので要チェック）
なおかつ、玄関に岡本太郎の作品がある。天皇陛下は一度、泊まった事があるぐらい。（御本人の使った器が展示されている。）
これは湯質がああでこうでの問題じゃない。白鳥園はトータルのことを考えなきゃいけない。そのタイムスリップの様なトータル。そして、一年後、すべてが新しくなるから今の内ですよ。
（新しくなってからはあのモグラたたきのゲームはどうなるだろう？）
In researching (?) Nagano's Top 100 Onsens, I've come to realize that there are just so many onsens, it's going to be impossible to try them all. There are several here in Togura-Kamiyamada Onsen even that I haven't been to yet. I finally made my "debut" at one of those -- Togura Onsen's Hakuchouen.
Even though Hakuchouen is only a 15 minute walk from Kamesei Ryokan,
and even though it is a legend in these parts (in the era before Tokyo Disneyland, Hakuchouen served as somewhat of an amusement park so all of the old-timers in the area speak fondly of their memories of the place),
this was my first time to experience the legend.
First, my attempt at being an onsen critic:
The onsen water is high in sulfur content, similar to Kamiyada's. So where it comes pouring out into the bath, there is a strong sulfur smell. But the bath water is recirculated so with the chlorine and what-not added, it looses any special "onsen" sensation.
However, the variety of the baths makes up for that. First there is the massive main indoor bath, nicknamed the "Mammoth Bath" (supposedly big enough for 300 people), and an outdoor bath made out of impressively large boulders. But wait, there's more! 3 more indoor baths -- a bubble bath, one where you lay down in, and a lukewarm bath, perfect for dipping in after coming out of the sauna.
And no description of Hakuchouen would be complete without mentioning the extras:
a cafeteria with, besides the regular ramen and donburi fare, features some seriously potent garlic-seasoned yakitori (chicken-on-skewers),
a game center (I got the day's high score on the Whack the Mole game!),
ping-pong tables,
karaoke singing,
a shop selling everything from peanuts to go with your beer to clothes of questionable fashion sense.
(The various areas have different operation hours so double-check once you get there.)
There's even an Okamoto Taro sculpture in the entrance. And to top it off, the emperor once spent the night at Hakuchouen. (They even have the tableware and dishes he used on display.)
Hakuchouen is more than just its onsen water -- you have to consider the total package. The entire time-slip total.
Just be sure to consider it soon -- it will all be replaced in about a year's time.
(What will happen to that classic Whack the Mole game?)
Hakuchouen's outdoor bath featuring impressive bolders
Don't miss the cafeteria's yakitori!
Hakuchouen's Namesake Swan Sign
The Okamoto Taro Sculpture
