亀清はBMWとハーリーのショールーム?! Kamesei's Lobby a BMW and Harley Showroom?

2013.07.22: 亀清旅館 Kamesei Ryokan

東京のBMW Motorradとハーレーダビッドソンのライダー30人が信州ツーリングのついでに我が亀清旅館にお泊りになりました。

大型バイク30台の内の数台はサイドカーが付いていて、とにかく皆がでかい!なるべく屋根の下の駐輪スペースを与えたかったけど、外じゃ入りきれなかったからサイドカー付きのBMW2台はロビーの中に入れさせました。何と室内駐輪!大喜び♪

他の皆も驚きました。「ロビーの中まで?バイクのショールームみたい」と。

「そうですよ。亀清旅館はバイクのお客様を大事にしております」と答えておきました。

Last weekend a motorbike group from Tokyo went touring around Nagano and spent the night here at Kamesei Ryokan. 30 BMW Motorrad and Harly Davidson bikes, most 1000cc+. Three were huge BMW's with side cars.

As much as possible, we try to provide covered parking for guests that come by motorbike. However, 30 large bikes definitely pushed our limits. So we had two of the sidecar BMW's pull all the way into our lobby to park. The owners were excited to have indoor parking.

Everybody was surprised -- "Wow -- you let them park IN the lobby? It's like a motorbike showroom!"

Well, we try to take care of our biker friends here at Kamesei Ryokan.

小久保モータース Kokubo Motors





長野トップ100温泉: 赤褐色の天狗温泉 Nagano Top 100 Onsens: Reddish-Brown Tengu Onsen

2013.07.21: 長野に来る理由 Reasons to Come to Nagano

浅間山の登山口に天狗温泉「浅間山荘」がある。お湯は鉄鉱成分の濃さで有名。

先日の浅間山の登山の後に立ち寄りで入らせて頂きました。私が今まで体験した温泉の中で天狗温泉のお湯が赤褐色していて、吃驚しました。尚且つ、お湯が濁っていて透明度はほぼゼロで更に吃驚しました。手先とかをちょっとでも入れてみたら、見えなくなるぐらい。とっても魅力的なお湯。

以前に北信の鉄分の多い温泉に行った際、「白い手ぬぐいをお湯に入れたら真赤になる」と言われた。やってみたが、あまり。無理にして湯口に擦ったら、少し赤くなった程度だった。

天狗温泉のお湯の鉄鉱成分はとにかく本当に濃い、印象深い温泉です。源泉はぬるい為に沸かされています。

「浅間山荘」と言えば大半皆さんは1972年の人質事件を思い出すかもしれないが、これだけ独特のお湯のある温泉はその事件に蒔けたらもったいない。段々と進化してきている天狗温泉は7月20に展望風呂もオープン。

At the main trailhead for climbing Mt. Asama is Tengu Onsen "Asama Sanso" mountain lodge, famous for its onsen water high in iron content.

After our recent climb of Mt. Asama, we stopped at Tengu Onsen for a soak in their onsen bath. Not only was the color of the mineral water a deep orangish-brown from the iron, but its translucency level was practically zero. You dip your fingers in, and they seem to disappear. This is some very serious onsen water.

Now, I had been in onsen baths with high iron content before. One in Northern Nagano bragged that your white hand towel would come out orange. I tried, and it didn't. With Tengu Onsen's mineral water though, my hand towel instantly turned orange when dipped in the bath. The only drawback I could see was the onsen source's temperature is relatively low so it has to be heated for the baths.

The facilities are a bit, err, rustic and the window doesn't offer much of a view, but Tengu Onsen's mineral water is something that has to be experienced to be believed. And on July 20th, 2013, they open their new Tenbo (view) bath which should offer much improved facilities.

Asama Sanso is unfortunately best known for a hostage incident that took place there in 1972. But it's unique onsen waters are sure to please guests today.

天狗温泉浅間山荘 Tengu Onsen Asama Sanso






浅間山火山館の神田館長に会おう Meet Kanda-san, Mt. Asama Kazankan's Director

2013.07.20: 長野に来る理由 Reasons to Come to Nagano

欧米の公の森林にRanger(森林保護官)という制度がある。
自然を守りながら訪ねる方に森林を説明し、緊急の時に安全活動もする。

浅間山を天狗温泉(浅間山荘)から登る時に途中にログハウスがある。火山館です。給水やトイレがあるし、2階は浅間山の自然を説明する資料館となっている。そこに館長の神田さんが親切に浅間山のうんちくを教えてくれる。神田さんは私に言わせたらRangerです。

今回、息子と登山した時に休憩している間に神田さんが色々と親切に教えてくれた。浅間山の3つの重なった火山の独特のチリから登山の歴史まで、その話を聞いてさらに浅間山のファンになりました。特に、この火山の地理が奥深くて面白い。登って行く中で目の前に浅間山の2万4300年前からの歴史が見える。

神田さんと浅間山「火山館」が信州の宝物だと思った。

Back in the States, many national and state parks and wilderness areas have Rangers -- people that work to preserve nature while interpreting that nature to visitors, as well as providing help in times of emergencies.

On our recent climb of Mt. Asama, we found the 2-story log house along the way that is Kazankan ("Volcano Hall"). Besides providing water and toilet facilities for climbers, the 2nd story is a geological museum of the mountain. And Kanda-san, the live-in director, happily fills in the details with his thorough knowledge.

During our rest stops there, Kanda-san described the 24,300 year geological history of the mountain and explained where the various stages of the 3-in-1 volcano development can be seen. Mt. Asama is the only volcano in the world to actually be 3 separate mountains that grew on top of each other. All of that dynamic activity can be seen in the peaks and ridges that make up Mt. Asama.

And the mountain's history of human interaction is equally as fascinating. Kanda-san took the time to explain that to us as well. He may not have the title of "Ranger", but in my mind that is what Kanda-san is.

Kanda-san and the Mt. Asama Kazankan -- two of Nagano's greatest treasures.

浅間山火山館 Mt. Asama Kazankan



Asama Kazankan's welcoming loghouse facade


The Volcano Explained


One of the Geological Displays





東信を上から 親子で噴火中の浅間山登り Seeing Eastern Nagano from Above -- Father-Son Ascent of Volcanic Mt. Asama

2013.07.19: 信州の山 Nagano’s Mountains

東信の一番高い山: 2568mの浅間山。小諸や軽井沢を通り度にいつも浅間山を見上げる。頂上から堪えずに煙が出ていて、恐るべしな火山。

先日は長男が珍しく学校が休みで、今年は浅間山を登る約束したのでこのタイミングを活かして、登山してきました。

浅間山の登山は主に2ルートがある:
1400mの天狗温泉から一の鳥居、二ノ鳥居、火山館径
2000mの高峰高原案内状から黒班山径

高峰高原の登山口は標高が高いけどアップダウンが激しいから決して楽じゃないそうです。どちらも片道三時間半ぐらいかかります。

私達は天狗温泉浅間山荘からの方を選んだ。鳥居通りの方が何となく「正しい」様に思ったし、途中の火山館の神田館長に会いたかったし、最後は天狗温泉に入りたかったから。

浅間山荘で車を駐車して(有料:500円)、森の中の道から登ります。途中の山野菜や鳥居の写真を撮りながら登って、途中で笹の草原に入り、硫黄の香りに赤い石、そして雄大の牙山が見えて、段々と火山の世界に入りました。

その直後、火山館に辿り着いた。休憩しながら、館長の神田さんに浅間山の色々なうんちくを教えて頂いて、やる気満々で再度出発しました。まずは紫のアヤメが咲いている湯の平。自然なアヤメは初めて見て、感動しました。

湯の平から離れて、植物から離れて、高峰高原ビジターセンター・黒班山・Jバンド経由の道が一緒になって、火山の石の道となって本格的な斜面を登る様になる。遠くの群馬県嬬恋村を見下ろしながらとにもかくも上に登る。

浅間山は本当は3つの火山です。3つが重なっている。一番古いのは長径2㎞火口で、今に残っているのは2404m黒班と2254~2366mのJバンドです。その上に2つ目の火山が出来、その火口は2524mの前掛山です。1783年の噴火でその中に三つ目の火口が出来、2568mの浅間山(釜山)、日本百名山となる。

現在の火山警戒レベルは「1」で、釜山の登山は禁止というか、自己責任というか、まあ、禁止です。と言いながら、ちゃんとした道がある。釜山から火山の煙がほとんどいつも出ているので毒ガスは目で見えないので危険です。従って、火口まで登って中にのぞかないで前掛山から見た方がお勧め。

浅間山登山。
三つの火山、
三つの地形(森、草原、火山石)
忘れられないし、今回は通らなかった場所と道を通りたいし、また登りたい♪

登る前に小諸市のHPで火山の噴火状況を確認してね。

At 2568m, Mt. Asama is the largest mountain in eastern Nagano. The active volcano towers over Komoro and Karuizawa, frequently sending up plumes of volcanic ash and smoke. The Nagano Shinkansen is named after Mt. Asama, and riders of the bullet train get a front seat view of the awe-inspiring mountain.

But what does the world look like from the top of Mt. Asama? And can you see into the volcanic crater? I had always been curious, so on a recent day when our oldest son had a day off from middle school, we decided to make an ascent of the volcano.

There are 2 main climbing routes for Mt. Asama. Both involve driving or taking a bus up Cherry Park Road from Central Komoro towards Takamine Kogen. Partway up is a branch to the right signed 浅間山登山口 -- Trailhead to Climb Mt. Asama. (If coming by bus, get off here and walk.) That road turns into a dirt track and ends at 1400m Tengu Onsen Asama Sansou hotel and campground. Park your car if you drove (500 yen) and from there, start hiking.

The 2nd route starts at 2000m Takamine Kogen which would seem easier due to the higher elevation, but ends up taking about as much time due to a lot of up-down business and Mt. Kurofu along the way.

We chose the Tengu Onsen start because that route is the original pilgrimage path with Ichi no Torii and Ni no Torii gates. The Kazankan ranger station-like shelter is on the way and we wanted to say 'hi' to Kanda-san, the director. Of course, we also were looking forward to a bath in Tengu Onsen's rusty-red waters at the end.

After leaving civilization (i.e. Tengu Onsen) behind, the trail basically follows a creek through a forest up to the Yu no Daira meadow, a relatively flat bit of respite from the ascent. Along the way to Yu no Daira, there were colorful wildflowers beside the path, spots in the creek where the water was a brilliant shade of orangeish red, a side path to Fudotaki waterfall, the before-mentioned torii arches, and a clearing named Kamoshika-daira, a crossroads of sorts for 4 heards of kamoshika, the ubiquitous stubby Japanese serow.

As the thick forest gives way to a equally thick carpet of sasa bamboo grass, the path turns a corner and you come face-to-face with the imposing Kibayama ("Fang Mountain"). Here the stream bed puts on a show of mineral colors while a strong scent of sulfur fills the air -- sure signs you are heading into volcano territory.

Another bend in the path and you arrive at Kazankan. If you speak Nihongo (Japanese), have Kanda-san explain the geological wonders of Mt. Asama. It is actually three volcanoes-in-one, with the three consecutively built on top of each other -- the only one like it in the world.

After bidding Kanda-san farewell, it's another brief incline before reaching Yu no Daira, a wildflower-filled flat meadow. Then the ascent begins in earnest. Once you leave the scraggly pines, you enter the volcanic rock zone and your first views of the barren summit. Actually what you can see is Maekake Mountain, the remains of the 2nd of 3 volcanoes. The path ends at the 2524-meter top of Maekake, giving you an unimpeded view of the 3rd volcano, 2568m Kamayama, formed by a volcanic eruption in 1783.

Currently Mt. Asama's volcanic activity is at level 1, which means access is technically limited to Maekake. But there is a path up to Kamayama's crater edge for those brave souls who, taking full responsibility by themselves, wish to peer into an active volcano crater. The path up is well travelled, so apparently there are a lot of brave souls out there.

Climbing Mt. Asama --
Three volcanoes in one,
Three very varied terrains (coniferous forest, alpine meadow and barren volcano rock),
it all makes for an unforgettable experience.

My son Andy and I are looking forward to climbing Mt. Asama again to try some of the other paths and explore areas we didn't get to on our first ascent.

Before you go, check the Komoro City website for current volcanic activity info.

小諸市浅間山登山情報 Komoro City Mt. Asama Climbing Info



Mt. Asama Tengu Onsen Trailhead


1st torii gate


2nd torii gate


Kibayama (Fang Mountain)


Hiking through the sasa bamboo grass carpet


Serow Meadow


volcanic creek


Yunodaira


J-Band trail


Warning Sign


Start the Ascent


Looking back at the inner side of the J-Band


At the crater's edge


Deep into the crater






しなの風呂の百日紅に夏の花 Summer Flowers on our Shinano-buro Bath's Spicebush

2013.07.18: 季節 Seasons

春は桜や水仙等でお花のイメージが強いです。しかし、夏も花が咲く気はちゃんとあります。その一つは百日紅。

亀清旅館の貸し切り露天「しなの風呂」に百日紅の木があって、見てみたら花が咲き始まった。

この夏は亀清の家族風呂に入りながら、夏の花も楽しめます♪

Usually flowers are associated with spring, such as cherry blossoms and daffodils. But summer has its flowers, too, such as the spicebush.

Kamesei Ryokan's private outdoor bath "Shinano-buro" has a spicebush tree in its garden. When I checked up on it, I was pleased to see it has started to blossom.

This summer, Kamesei Ryokan's guests will be able to enjoy summer blossoms while soaking in our luxurious Shinano-buro family bath!




戸倉上山田温泉 新バス2 湯~遊バス善光寺・小布施号 New Togura Kamiyamada Bus #2: Zenkoji-Obuse Route

2013.07.17: その他 Miscellaneous

今年の戸倉上山田温泉の新バス、その2:
湯~遊バス善光寺・小布施号

戸倉上山田温泉に滞在しながら、日帰りバスツアーを楽しめます。
朝食後、バスに乗ってまずは栗と北斎で有名な小布施町。そして信州の代表する古刹「善光寺」へ行かれて、昼食を自由に取ります。(おそば屋さんがお勧め!) その後、長野駅に寄りながら真田邸と城下町「松代」に行きます。
途中の長野駅にて車降・車乗も可能。

戸倉上山田温泉 09:00発
小布施 09:40~11:00
善光寺 11:45~13:45
長野駅 14:00着 14:15発
松代 14:45~16:15
戸倉上山田温泉 16:45着

料金は6500円 (長野駅止り4500円、長野駅から2000円)
2名以上からの運行。申し込みは前日17時まで。問い合わせは亀清旅館へどうぞ。

期間: 2013年10月1日~11月30日

今年の秋の観光シーズンに魅力的な戸倉上山田温泉発の日帰りツアー。運転はドライバーにお任せ。駐車場探しなどの面倒は無し。気楽な、尚且つ面白い観光地ばかり揃ったツアー。この秋は湯~遊バス善光寺・小布施号をどうぞ、楽しんでください。

Togura Kamiyamada Onsen's 2nd new bus of the year is the Yu-Yu Bus Zenkoji-Obuse Route scheduled to run this fall.

This full-day tour is perfect for a day trip for guests spending multiple nights at our onsen town Togura-Kamiyamada. After your breakfast, the bus will take you to Obuse, a quaint town famous for chestnut sweets and for its museum dedicated to the ukiyo-e woodblock print master Hokusai. From there it's on to Zenkoji, Nagano City's venerable temple. Tour the temple and stop for lunch at one of the many fine restaurants in the area (including many great soba shops). After a quick stop at Nagano Station, the bus then takes everyone to Matsushiro, a castle town with many samurai homes open for visitors to see. And then it's back to Togura-Kamiyamada Onsen.

Depart Togura-Kamiyamada Onsen 09:00
Obuse free time 09:40-11:00
Zenkoji free time 11:45-13:45
Nagano Station (arr 14:00, dep 14:15)
Matsushiro free time 14:45-16-15
Arrive Togura Kamiyamada Onsen 16:45

Price is 6,500 yen for the full tour,
4,500 yen for the Obuse-Zenkoji-Nagano Station part,
2,000 yen for Nagano Station - Matsushiro - Onsen.
Minimum 2 guests, Reservations by 5pm 1 day prior.
Feel free to contact us here at Kamesei Ryokan to make your reservation.

The Yu-Yu bus will run daily from October 1st to November 30th, 2013.

This fall, leave the driving to the bus driver and enjoy a 1-day tour of the best of northern Nagano (Obuse, Zenkoji, Matsushiro) while enjoying a stay at an onsen inn here in Togura-Kamiyamada!





戸倉上山田温泉 新バス1 松本駅ぽっかぽか号 New Togura Kamiyamada Onsen Bus From Matsumoto

2013.07.16: 温泉タウン戸倉上山田 Onsen Town Togura-Kamiyamada

今年から、戸倉上山田温泉の新しいバスは2つが出来ました。その1つ目は松本駅からのぽっかぽか号♪

松本駅からは
駅アルプス口13:35発、松本城・鹿教湯温泉・別所経由、
戸倉上山田温泉15:25着

帰りは
戸倉上山田温泉9:50発、別所・鹿教湯温泉・松本城経由、
松本駅11:40着

料金は片道3500円、 往復6500円

運行期間は2013/7/20~2014/3/31 (年末始運休)

ご予約は信州観光バス026-272-8100 2日前まで 2名から

亀清旅館にお越しになるお客様にいつもどこを寄ってきたかと聞きますが、松本城はやはり、人気があります。電車で松本まで来た方はお城を見てからこの便利なぽっかぽか号のバスで気楽で来れます。

と言いながら、1時間50分で3500円で1日に一本だけとは電車と比較したらどうかなと。松本ー姨捨は大体1時間に一本でたった50分と740円。姨捨駅からは亀清の送迎。ぽっかぽか号ちゃんは難しいかも。もう一つの新しいバスはまだ利点がある。

This year there are 2 new busses servicing Togura Kamiyamada Onsen. The first is the Pokka Poka Bus from Matsumoto Station.

From Matsumoto:
Depart from the Station's Alps Entrance 13:35, stop at Matsumoto Castle, route via Kakeyu and Bessho Onsens, arrive Togura Kamiyamada Onsen at 15:25.

Return:
Depart Togura Kamiyamada Onsen 9:50, route via Bessho and Kakeyu Onsens, stop at Matsumoto Castle, arrive the station at 11:40.

Price: 3500 yen 1-way, 6500 yen round trip.

Bus runs daily from July 20th 2013 to April 31st 2014 (except during the New Years holiday).

For reservations, call Shinshu Kanko Bus 026-272-8100 minimum 2 days in advance. Minimum 2 people.

I always ask our guests here at Kamesei Ryokan where they did their sightseeing on the way here, and Matsumoto Castle is definitely one of the more popular places. So for guests that take the train to Matsumoto, this Pokka Poka Bus would be a convenient way to come to our onsen town, Togura-Kamiyamada.

However, to be honest, with only 1 run a day, and it taking nearly 2 hours and costing 3500 yen, I can't help but think the train would be a better option. There is a local train from Matsumoto Station to Obasute Station that runs basically once an hour, takes only 50 minutes and costs only 740 yen. And we here at Kamesei Ryokan gladly provide pick-up at Obasute Station. Me thinks this Pokka Poka Bus is going to be a difficult sell. So let's look at the 2nd bus.





温泉夏祭り 三日間目: 反省 Onsen Summer Festival, Day 3: Reflection

2013.07.15: 青い目のおもてなし This American’s Omotenashi

Picture courtesy of Manabu Miyagawa of Umemura Ryokan

戸倉上山田温泉夏祭りはあまりにも迫力が上がって、この祭り男は盛り上がり過ぎ癖がある。仲間の学さんが撮った写真ですが、私がワショイし過ぎかな?その情熱が担ぎ手に伝わって入るようです。それは良い事だが、私がアホに見えるかどうか心配となってきた。気合を入り過ぎ?

2013年度の温泉夏祭りはこれで終了になりました。2014年度のは7月19・20日です。既に楽しみにしております。皆さん、是非に見に来て頂きたいと思います♪

I admit -- I have a tendency to get a little over-excited when it comes to festivals. Kamiyamada's Onsen Summer Festival is especially so full of energy, and I tend to go a bit overboard. Here I am pictured cheering on one of the parade float-like mikoshi. My enthusiasm seems to catch on with the guys carrying the mikoshi, but I must look like an idiot.

Oh well, the onsen summer festival is just once a year, and 2013's is finished. I am already looking forward to July 19th and 20th, 2014, the dates of next year's festival. Won't you join me in being a festival idiot?






温泉夏祭り 二日間目 Onsen Summer Festival, Day 2

2013.07.14: 温泉タウン戸倉上山田 Onsen Town Togura-Kamiyamada

Hime-mikoshi in front of Kamesei Ryokan

戸倉上山田温泉夏祭り2013
二日間目

今年は勇獅子とお神輿は初めて亀清旅館まで来てくれました。我が宿は通るルートから微妙に離れていますが、無理にお願いして来て頂きました。

お泊りになったお客様はお口揃って「あんなに迫力のある祭り、感動した!」と。

Togura Kamiyamada Onsen Summer Festival 2013,
Day 2

This year, the Isamu Shishi massive 40-person lion as well as the 4 mikoshi (parade floats / portable shrines) stopped at Kamesei Ryokan. Our inn is an inconvenient distance from the main parade route, but I pleaded with the organizers and had them stop this year. What an honor!

All of our guests for the weekend agreed -- Kamiyamada Onsen's summer festival has an amazing amount of energy!



In honor of Shiga-san



Sunset Hana-Mikoshi