温泉の本屋さん Onsen Bookstore.

2011.07.20: 温泉タウン戸倉上山田 Onsen Town Togura-Kamiyamada

戸倉上山田温泉に小さな本屋さんがあります: 西澤書店。もちろん、一般の雑誌と本を販売しているけど、信州に特化した本は沢山そろっています。観光ガイドや山登り、山野草など、信州の何か知りたいなら、西澤書店できっと良い本があります。場所はかめ乃湯通りです。

In our onsen town Togura-Kamiyamada, there is a quaint little bookshop called Nishizawa Shoten. While they have the regular assortment of popular books and magazines, they also feature a large selection of books and guides about Nagano Prefecture. From sightseeing guidebooks to mountain climbing and wildflower guides, you are certain to find what you are looking for here. Located on Kame no Yu Dori street.







松代の皆神山: UFO基地のピラミッド山? Matsushiro's Minakami Mtn.: UFO base pyramid?

2011.07.19: 長野に来る理由 Reasons to Come to Nagano

皆神神社 Minakami Shrine at the top of mysterious Minakami Mtn.

先日はUFOを探しに行きました。

長野市の松代地区に皆神山と言うパワースポット的な山がある。アニメの「世紀末オカルト学院」の舞台で話題になったが、昔からパワースポットと思われたようです。

周辺の山と離れて、周りの山と違う地質をもっているピラミッドのような形している。UFOの基地だったという説もある。

確かに、沢山の不思議がある。例えば、頂上にサンショウウオ(山椒魚)がいる沼がある。志賀高原とか日本アルプスの様な高地ならおかしくないけど、比較的に低い標高の善光寺平では珍しい。

先日は頂上にある皆神神社に行ってみました。ピラミッドやUFOの伝説の説明があったり、例の沼もあったり、神社自体は15・16世紀からの建物で驚くべきな木彫りがある。

結局はUFOを見付かなかったけど、サンショウウオはちらっと見ました。

In Nagano City's Matsushiro district, there is a mysterious mountain called Minakami-yama. It's set apart from the neighboring mountains and has a distinct geological makeup. Some theories behind the mountain is that it is a pyramid, or perhaps a base for UFO's.

The other day, our family drove up to the top to see what was up there. The narrow road to the top winds through a thick forest before it levels out on the plateau at the top of the mountain. After driving up the steep mountainside, it is surprising to find farm fields, houses, even a golf course at the top. And crowning the mountain is an ancient shrine, whose main building dates back to the 15th and 16th centuries. The ornate wood carvings on it are amazing.

Next to the shrine were some mysterious ponds that are breeding grounds for salamanders. This would be common at high elevation marshes up in the Alps, but not down here on the Zenkoji Plain.

We ended up not seeing any UFO's on Minakami-yama, but we did catch a sight of some cool salamanders!

皆神山の伝説の紹介は下記のビデオにて。 For more on Minakami-yama's mysteries, check out this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hLTXuGRBm2Q&NR=1









衣料品のべに屋にて、短パンの日米間系 Intercultural Shorts Relations at our town's clothing shop: Beniya

2011.07.18: 日米関係Culture Shock

この戸倉上山田温泉の衣料品屋さんは亀清旅館の近所の「べに屋」さんです。一般洋服を売りながら、浴衣や手ぬぐい、祭りのものなどの和服も売っています。そして、お店の中庭が素敵な庭園です。池にカラフルな鯉も泳いでいるし、自由に入れます。

今回の温泉夏祭りでべに屋で短パンを買いました。祭り用の和風短パンは初めてでした。どうやって着るか、下着の上で着るかどうか、ちょっとカルチャショックでした。面白い風に回すし、チャクとかボタンの代わりに紐があったりして、着方がよく分らなかった。

結局、着方は失敗して、祭り最中で変な意味で「ご神体出し」をしたようです。それから確認して、やはり中は下着を着る事が分かって、祭りの2つ目の日はばっちしでした。

短パンツは当然チャクやボタンが当然あるものだと思い込んでいた私には、和服が違うよと、いい勉強になりました。日本に住めば住むほど、物の見方が広くなります。

Onsen Town Togura-Kamiyamada's main clothing shop is Beniya. Our inn, Kamesei Ryokan, is neighbors with Beniya. We take guests there all the time. Not just to shop for western style clothes as well as their great selection of Japanese yukata, tenugui and such, but because their nakaniwa garden behind their shop is simply fabulous. Anyone can enter and see the beautiful koi swimming in the pond, and the finely detailed garden.

Anyways, for last weekend's Onsen Summer Festival, I went to Beniya and bought some shorts to wear for helping out with the Omikoshi. It was my first time to wear traditional Japanese shorts, and I have to admit, it was pretty daunting. I'm used to shorts having a button or zipper to close things up with, but these shorts wrap around in a funky way and have a string to tie everything together.

I was having a bit of culture shock trying to figure out how to wear the shorts, and was getting mixed signals on whether or not to wear anything underneath.

Apparently I didn't do so well, as there was an uninvited phallic symbol that made an appearance at our festival. For the second day, I got things figured out better, including the bit about needing something underneath. So things went a lot smoother after that.

Living in Japan is great for widening one's world view, even in regard to wearing shorts!


Our onsen's clothing store


The shorts in question. Don't laugh -- You try them on. Hint: there ain't no button fly.


温泉夏祭りその4:お神輿運転 Summer Festival 4: Driving a Mikoshi

2011.07.17: その他 Miscellaneous

彦神輿の回りを守る

今年の温泉夏祭りから、獅子からお神輿の方に移りました。
祭りの最初の日は、若連の皆が一番でかいご神体神輿を夕方から出します。
2つ日間目はお昼から4つのお神輿が出て、グランドフィナーレでご神体がもう一度出るという流れ。

私のお神輿の初体験はどうだったか?

最初の日は結局、塵取りでほとんど終わっちゃった。私の5年目の祭りでしたが、お神輿としてはまだ1年目だったから仕方がないと思いました。

次の日は人数が足りたか、塵取りは卒業。彦神輿の周りを守る役割になりました。先輩方に指示を受けながら、少しずつ慣れました。最後にご神体神輿が出た時に、周りを守る事はしなくていい;逆に、お神輿の後ろへ行って、押す役割になりました。

えっ、やった事がないけど…と不安でしたが、おんべを持っているリーダーの動きに従ってお神輿を押したり、回ったり、違う方向の回りを止めたりしました。

こんな面白いことをやって良いのか?と思ってぐらいに面白かったです。お神輿が最高でした!

次の日、お客様とお話したら、お神輿だけじゃなくて、獅子、太鼓、花火、とにかく全部が最高だったようです。戸倉上山田温泉は決して大きい街じゃない。それなのに、この温泉夏祭りは感動するほど迫力がある。お客様はみなさんが口を揃って、そう言います。

来年はぜひ、見に来てください。その時にまた汗をかきますので宜しくお願いします。

For this year's big Onsen Summer Festival, I switched from the giant shi-shi lion to the omikoshi (see previous entry for omikoshi explanation).

On the first day of the festival, the biggest
'Goshintai' omikoshi is paraded around town in the evening. It carries the, err, object from the fertility-themed Okutsu Shrine.

For the second day, 4 smaller omikoshi are paraded around an even longer route from just after lunch until late at night, at which the Goshintai mikoshi is brought out again for a grand finale.

So, how was my first experience with the omikoshi?

Well, to be honest, it was boring at first. I ended up being in charge of sweeping up garbage for most of the first day. It was my 5th summer festival, but only my first with the omikoshi guys so I figured 'low man on the totem pole...'

But the second day, I started out with a bit more action. I was charged with accompanying the hiko mikoshi on the side, keeping the carriers safe from the surroundings and vice versa. After we put the hiko to rest and brought out the masive Goshintai mikoshi, I was told I wouldn't be needed on the side any more. Instead, I would be at the back pushing the mikoshi.

I thought, "How could I do that? I've never done it before!" But I soon figured out the techniques to follow the leader's baton-like 'onbeh', pushing the mikoshi forward here, twisting to turn it there, and trying to stop it from turning over there. In other words, I was driving the mikoshi!

Was it okay to be having so much fun?! It turns out the mikoshi was a blast!

And talking to our guests the next day, it wasn't just the mikoshi. The lion, taiko drums, fireworks all were so exciting. For a small town, we sure put on an energy-filled summer festival. Hopefully you can come see it next year!





温泉夏祭りその3:下駄供養から御神体担ぎまで Onsen Summer Festival 3: From Geta Offering to Omikoshi Carrying

2011.07.16: 温泉タウン戸倉上山田 Onsen Town Togura-Kamiyamada

上山田温泉の夏祭りの最初の日は何回も着替えながら、次から次へ飛んで回り。

朝は布団上げ、お会計と見送り@亀清旅館 (作務衣)
水天宮のお祈り@水と緑と潤いのある公園 (ワイシャツにお神輿の法被)
ついでに下駄供養@同じ公園 (ワイシャツに戸倉上山田の緑色の法被)
お神輿の魂入れ (お神輿法被に着替えなおす)
近所の11区のお神輿担ぎ (私物の青い色の祭り法被)
上山田お神楽保存会と獅子舞巡り (お神楽の格好)
祭り若連の皆とご神体神輿 (白い短パンにお神輿の法被)

6回も着替えながら、長い一日でした。

アメリカで複数の役=「複数の帽子をかぶる」と言います。日本の場合、複数の法被を着るって事ですね。

ちなみに、水天宮で行った神事の中で、今年は特別な祈りがありました。本来なら、水天宮の神事は2つな微妙な部分がある: 
生活や農業などに水が必要な一方、水の感謝するけど、
川が暴れて被災発生するもう一方で、水から守るとの祈りも。
3.11の津波で、「水から守る」との部分は特に大切に感じました。

この夏祭りでかける汗は東北の被災者の皆様への応援も入っています。

The first day of Kamiyamada Onsen's summer festival is always a bit hectic, including way too many changes of clothing.

This is how my day went:

Futon flipping and checking the guests out (wearing a 'samue' work outfit)
Water God ceremony at our town's main park (Omikoshi happi coat over dress clothes)
Geta sandal offering at the same park (Green innkeepers happi coat over dress clothes)
Omikoshi blessing (back to the Omikoshi happi coat)
Carrying our neighborhood's Omikoshi (my personal blue 'matsuri' happi coat)
The Okagura lion dance troupe procession (okagura garb)
The main festival omikoshi (white shorts and Omikoshi happi coat)

6 clothing changes made for a long, long day!

In the States, there's a saying about wearing multiple hats when doing more than one activity. In Japan, it should be wearing multiple happi coats!

By the way, this year's Water God ceremony had special importance. The ceremony always walks a fine line between thanking the god for supplying life-giving water, and praying from protection from that same water's destructive flooding potential. This year, the latter was especially pertinent in the aftermath of the 3.11 tsunami.

It is my hope that the sweat from this weekend's matsuri will also be for the betterment of the people that suffered in the 3.11 triple disasters.





温泉夏祭りその2 お神輿準備 Summer Festival, 2: Prepping the Omikoshi

2011.07.15: 温泉タウン戸倉上山田 Onsen Town Togura-Kamiyamada

彦神輿: 準備ばちっし。

週末の温泉夏祭りに向かって、準備が続いています。私は今年から獅子からお神輿の方の小頭になりました。

今日はお神輿の準備の作業でした。祭りの広場に移って、そして最後の仕上がり。祭りはいよいよ明日から!

Preparations for this weekend's onsen summer festival are reaching a feverish pitch. Starting this year, I switched from the giant shi-shi lion group to the omikoshi group.

For those of you not familiar with 'matsuri' (Japanese festivals), an 'omikoshi' is basically a portable version of an area's local shrine. It is carried around town, stopping at various places for a special blessing.

Sounds harmless enough, right?

Wrong! This is more X-Games material than some quaint cultural feature from National Geographic.

The omikoshi weighs upwards of a ton and is carried on the shoulders of 40, 50 even more people depending on its size. They usually process around town in a somewhat controlled manner. But when they return to the main festival site for the grand finale, all controls are cut loose. Multiple omikoshi are in action -- they taunt each other and often crash into each other, sometimes crushing the people carrying them. When the omikoshi spins around, the momentum sometimes gets going so fast, especially around the corners, that the carriers can easily fall and get trampled. That's not to mention the omikoshi getting out of control and crashing into the audience.

All of this is set to a rythmic chant of 'wasshoi', from the carriers, the handlers, the people watching, the taiko drummers encouraging everyone, and the ladies standing on top of the omikoshi urging the carriers on.

But before the wasshoi, there is the final preparation for the omikoshi, which I'm doing today. Here's looking forward to the festival!





温泉夏祭り その1 Onsen Summer Festival, 1st Entry

2011.07.14: 温泉タウン戸倉上山田 Onsen Town Togura-Kamiyamada

Geta prep

戸倉上山田温泉にとっては、夏祭りが一年の一番大きいイベントです。毎年7月の海の日の連休で行います。祭りへ向かう準備、当日の汗、終わった後の片づけ、そしてまた来年に向かっての準備。

今は今年の祭りの準備の最中です。昨日は我々旅館青年部が担当する「下駄供養」の準備でした。

我らの宿にお泊りになるお客様が下駄を履いて浴衣のままで温泉街をぶらぶらする習慣です。一年間を通して、下駄が段々古くなる。その使われ切ったげたを集めて夏祭りの中心となる水天宮の横にオブジェのジャイアント下駄と合わせて、設置する。そして夏祭りの最初の碑にご来賓及び関係者に集まって頂いて、下駄供養を行います。

昨日は青年部の皆で温泉の旅館の全部を回って、古い下駄を集めて、温泉の真ん中の水と緑と潤いのある公園で準備しました。(OBの俊樹さん、ご協力を有難うございました!)

これで1年間のお客様のおお越しに感謝、感謝 !

Here in Togura Kamiyamada Onsen, our annual summer festival is the biggest event of the year. Everyone works hard on the preparations, puts in a lot of sweat during the festival itself, helps out with the clean-up afterwards, and then starts preparing all again for the next year's festival.

My fellow ryokan junior innkeepers and I are in charge of the geta sandal offering at the festival. Guests of the inns often wear the wooden sandals and go for strolls around town in their yukata robes. Over the year, the geta get worn down. So for the festival, we gather the worn out geta and place them in a mound next to the Suitengu (water god shrine). Then during the festival, we do a special offering of the geta in thanks for all the guests from the over the year.

Yesterday, the junior innkeepers and I went around to all of the inns and gathered the worn out geta. Then we piled up the geta with on ornamental giant sandal. Now we're ready to give thanks for all of our guests at the big festival this weekend.






この夏は暑さに負けない! 戸隠水とラムネパワー! Beat the Heat this Summer, with Togakushi Water and Ramune

2011.07.13: 亀清旅館 Kamesei Ryokan

日本のこの夏は暑いぞ! 普段に爽やか信州でも、32℃の日々が続いています。

亀清旅館では、暑さ対応策に色々と工夫しています。団扇提供とか、子供達にアイスとか、風鈴を付けたりとか。

そして、もう一つの実践は玄関に冷たい飲み物の販売です:
戸隠の湧水とラムネ。

ラムネは夏らしい飲み物で、
亀清のお風呂上り用に戸隠の湧水を提供しておりまして、お客様に評判が良いです。その同じお水をPETボットルで販売してみています。

とにかく、この夏は暑さに負けない!

This summer is shaping up to be a hot one here in Japan. Even Nagano has been seeing 32C days lately.

At Kamesei Ryokan, we are trying to get creative to find ways to beat the heat. We are offering our guests 'uchiwa' fans to use, we give kids ice cream for dessert, we set up wind chimes in several places, etc.

One new thing we are trying is offering cold drinks for sale in our lobby:
Ramune and mineral water from Togakushi.

Ramune is a popular summer-time soda,
and we've been offering Togakushi water to our guests after their baths, which has been a hit. Now we have that same water in bottles for guests to buy.

Hopefully these cold drinks will help everyone to beat the heat this summer.





観光案内所@亀清旅館のロビー Tourist Information Center @ Kamesei Ryokan's Lobby

2011.07.13: 亀清旅館 Kamesei Ryokan

亀清旅館のロビーに前から周辺の観光パンフが置いてありました。少しごっちゃごっちゃになっていたので、このスタンドを購入して、整理してみました。

この夏休み向けで、お越しになるお客様に周辺の観光情報を提供できるように、沢山のパンフをそろいました。これで皆様が信州をたっぷり楽しんで頂けると思います。

In our lobby here at Kamesei Ryokan, we always had a section of area sightseeing brochures. Now with these new stands, it's a bit more professionally organized. Our guests this summer will hopefully be able to use this info to better enjoy Nagano.





杏狩り@…亀清旅館! Apricot Picking at -- Kamesei Ryokan!

2011.07.12: 季節 Seasons

Apricots in one of Kamesei's gardens

夕べのお客様はいきなり「杏狩りしに行きたい」と言い出した。夕方5時半でした。杏農家の皆様はその時間帯がもうおしまい。

残念?いいえ。我が亀清旅館に2年前に植えた杏の木があって、実は少しなっていましたので、お客様を案内しました。「一本の気だけですが…」と言ったら、「それで良いです。杏の実は見た事がないから。どうなっているか見てみたい」と言われました。

まあ、小さい事でしたが、お客様は初めて杏のみを見て、初めて「採りたて」で食べました。庭師の岡田さんの植えた杏の木は昔からの種類で、実は「尼酸っぱい」と言うより、ただの「酸っぱい」って感じ。どちらかと言うと、ジャム作りに最適。個人的には私が好きですが、お客さんに最近の種類、甘い「ハーコート」の方が良かったかもしれない。

Last night, our guests suddenly declared that they wanted to go pick apricots. At 5:30pm. Umm, all of the apricot orchardists are done for the day.

But never fear, Kamesei Ryokan is here! 2 years ago, our gardener planted an apricot tree for us. It actually was bearing a bit of fruit, so I took the guests to see it. It was their first time to see apricots in anything other than a jar of jam, so they were pretty excited.

The variety that our gardener planted was an heirloom variety. A nice, tart (sour?) variety. Perfect for jam. I personally like the tartness, but I think our guests would have preferred a modern variety like the sweet Harcot.