野沢温泉の「魂」旅館:常盤屋 Nozawa Onsen's Heart and Soul: Tokiwaya Ryokan

May 21, 2011: 長野に来る理由 Reasons to Come to Nagano

野沢温泉は長野県の温泉街の中で、我々旅館経営者達も憧れる温泉地です。立派な個性的な、歴史のある宿は沢山そろっているし、「大湯」が代表する外湯は13箇所、源泉は目で見える(鼻でかめる)麻釜、世界レベルなスキー場、お土産屋さんがいっぱいあるにぎやかな温泉街、そして毎年の意月15日に行う総祖人まつり、日本三大日の祭りの1つ。

魅力はとにかく沢山ある野沢温泉。

2年前にお湯の隣の370年の歴史のある常盤屋旅館が倒産し、外資系に売られそうでした。

一般的な宿がそうやって外資系になって、安売り出せば「仕方がない」と思われるけど、常盤屋旅館が野沢温泉の中心にあり、一番歴史の長い宿。

つまり、野沢温泉の魂旅館。

地元の村人の何人かが手を上げて、スポンサーになって、常盤屋をレスキューしました。

その中の若旦那が私の県青年部委員会のメンバーで昨日は他の委員と常盤屋さんで集まりました。その歴史のストリーを教えていただき、館内を案内して頂きました。代表の千人風呂や「個室食堂」が流行る前からの個室食堂など。個性的な、老舗な宿で感動しました。

亀清旅館はいつか戸倉上山田温泉の「魂宿」になれるかな?

Nozawa Onsen is the type of onsen village that people in the ryokan industry love. It's got a handful of really classy inns, the 13 public baths including the venerable 'Oyu', the 'Ogama' hot spring source where locals gather to wash vegetables, a world class ski resort next door, a lively townscape with lots of small shops to browse, and the annual Fire Festival held every January 15th.

Across the street from Oyu is Tokiwaya Ryokan, founded 370 years ago -- Nozawa's most historical inn.

2 years ago, Tokiwaya was set to go bankrupt and be bought out by a foreign firm.

If a minor ryokan were sold out and turned into a budget accommodation, the townspeople no doubt would have resigned themselves to that fate. However, Tokiwaya is the heart and soul of the village. A group of locals decided to pool their resources and by the inn, keeping it locally-owned and maintaining its rich legacy.

The 'wakadanna' (junior owner) is in my prefectural level junior innkeepers association committe, and some of the other members and I gathered at Tokiwaya yesterday. We got to hear the story of the inn, as well as get a tour. The '1000-person' bath and the individual dining rooms (made even before such a style became the fad) were especially impressive.

I wonder if we can develop Kamesei Ryokan into becoming a 'legacy ryokan', too.

常盤屋旅館のHPはこちらClick here for Tokiwaya Ryokan's website.


Tokiwaya Ryokan -- Nozawa's Legacy Inn


Tokiwaya's 1000 person onsen


Nozawa Onsen's Asagama-Dori street lined with classic ryokans


Nozawa Onsen village


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