長野流のGW Golden Week - Nagano Style

May 3, 2015: 温泉Onsens, 季節 Seasons, 長野に来る理由 Reasons to Come to Nagano, グルメFoodie, 信州の山 Nagano’s Mountains

皆さん、ハッピーゴールデンウィーク!

あれっ、ハッピーじゃないって?まあ、確かに、連休でどこへ行っても混みますよね。

長野県こそ、松本城や軽井沢の様なメージャーな観光スポット、

そして、佐久の気球フェスティバルや飯山の菜の花畑の様な大きいイベントは混む。特に、今年は七年に一度の善光寺「御開帳」が偉い人数でしょう。

しかし、あきらめないで。長野県は穴場的な隠れ宝が沢山あります。静かな信州が連休の最中でも十分楽しめます。

一つな裏コースを紹介します。娘と白馬方面へドライブした時。

Happy Golden Week, everyone.

Or is it?  With practically everyone and her brother having the week off, it seems wherever you go there will be crowds, crowds, and still more crowds.

Here in Nagano, the major attractions such as Matsumoto Castle, the Utsukushigahara ridge drive, the resort town of Karuizawa etc. also tend to be jam-packed during peak holidays.  And the many major events taking place in Nagano during Golden Week, such as the hot air balloon festival in Saku, the rape blossom festival in Iiyama and, especially, the once-every-seven-years Gokaicho at Zenkoji Temple in Nagano City, will likely draw hordes of visitors.

Don't despair -- the prefecture has plenty of off-the-beaten-path places and simple, local events to enjoy in a quiet, Nagano-like fashion.

As but one example of how to enjoy Golden Week Nagano-style, here is what my daughter and I found on a drive to the Hakuba area.

先ずは白馬村の南にある青木湖に行ってみた。桜が咲き、背景の白馬連峰の雪が残り、青空遠い湖で素晴らしい景色。本当は時間があったらカヤックに乗りたかった。

First, we stopped at Aoki Lake just south of Hakuba Village.  The Northern Alps were still covered in snow which contrasted brilliantly with the deep blue color of the sky and the lake.  The cherry trees were still in bloom, adding a spash of reddish-pink to the scene.

Aoki Lake with the Snow-capped Hakuba Range in the Distance

Aoki Lake with the Snow-capped Hakuba Range in the Distance 青木湖と雪景色の白馬連峰

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湖の西側に千国街道が通ります。昔の塩の道で、GWの連休でその記念で三日間をかけて歩く塩の道祭りが行われる。江戸時代の行列が復元される。

The old 'Chikuni-Kaido' trail passes on the west side of the lake.  This ancient path used to be known as the Salt Road by which mountainous Nagano got its salt from the sea.  Every year for three days during Golden Week, a special event is held to commemorate the trail's history.  Participants walk along the trail, one section each day, many in period costume.

青木湖の西側に通る千国街道。塩の道祭りがここを通る。 Chikuni Trail along the west side of Aoki Lake.  The Salt Road Festival procession passes along here.

青木湖の西側に通る千国街道。塩の道祭りがここを通る。
Chikuni Trail along the west side of Aoki Lake. The Salt Road Festival procession passes along here.

湖の東側にゼーブリックと言うラーメン屋さんがある。ログハウスの中の店で薪ストーブがあって、落ち着く風情。湖も眺めれて、良い所。チャーシューラーメンを頂いたが、あんな部厚いチャーシューは初めてだった。次回には味噌ラーメンかカレーライスが美味しそうだった。連休でお店が賑やかだったが、上の県道沿いの店の全部は人が並んでいました。

While at Aoki Lake, we stopped for lunch at Seebrick, a ramen shop in a quaint log cabin located along the old lane on the lake's east side.  We tried the soysauce based ramen, mine with the extra charshu pork (the thickest slices I've ever seen!).  The miso based version as well as the curry rice menu options looked enticing, too.  The restaurant was busy, but not nearly as much as the restaurants we passed on the main highway.

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Seebrick's woodstove ゼーブリックの薪ストーブ

Seebrick's woodstove
ゼーブリックの薪ストーブ

昼ごはんの後は、「温泉に入ろう!」との事で、白馬村の中心にあるみみずくの湯に入りました。選んだポイントは内風呂及び露天風呂からは白馬連峰が見える事。最高の景色だった。そして、お湯はpHが11.6って、日本最高です。娘と二人で肌がすべすべになって、驚いた。透明と無色だが、その美肌効果が素晴らしい。

After lunch, it was time for a soak in an onsen bath.  Since the sky was so clear and the snow-capped Alps were so blazingly beautiful, we opted for Mimizuku no Yu in the center of Hakuba Village.  The baths, both the indoor ones as well as the open-air outdoor ones,  feature a stunning view of the Hakuba Range.  The onsen water source is Hakuba Happone, and has a pH of 11.6 -- possibly the highest in all of Japan.  We were surprised how silky smooth it made our skin feel.  The onsen water is clear and doesn't have any smell, but the view and the beautifying effect of the water are both outstanding.

みみずくの湯 Mimizuku no Yu Onsen Bathhouse

 

みみずくの湯の外観 Mimizuku no Yu's Facade

みみずくの湯の外観
Mimizuku no Yu's Facade

みみずの湯の露天風呂から見える山景色 The View of the Hakuba Range from Mimizuku no Yu's Outdoor Bath

みみずの湯の露天風呂から見える山景色
The View of the Hakuba Range from Mimizuku no Yu's Outdoor Bath

 

帰りの道でオリンピック道路を走ったが、途中で鬼無里への道があった。そう言えば、鬼無里はこの連休で祭りがある。細かい手彫りの飾りの山車が特徴だそうです。今年は三味線の演奏も。地元の皆の為のイベントで観光客はあまり来ないけど、だからこそ信州の田舎の良さを味わえる.

On the way back towards Nagano City along the Olympic Highway, we passed the road that heads to Kinasa.  This hamlet tucked in the hills above Nagano holds a very local, non-touristy festival during Golden Week involving some ornately-carved 'dashi' parade floats.  This year's festival featured some shamisen entertainment.  This is the type of event that best showcases Nagano's rural charm -- and without crowds!

 

鬼無里の祭りのチラシ Flyer for Kinasa's Festival

鬼無里の祭りのチラシ
Flyer for Kinasa's Festival

このGWの連休は是非に信州の裏道へ

So, enjoy Golden Week by coming to Nagano and exploring the countryside of Japan!

信州のもう一つの有名な花: 高遠城の桜 Another Famous Blossom Festival: Takato Castle's Cherry Trees

April 8, 2015: 季節 Seasons, 長野に来る理由 Reasons to Come to Nagano

高遠の有名な桜、初めて見ました。咲き具合は8部だったが、その特殊な桜がとっても綺麗。
時期的に戸倉上山田温泉の近くの森「杏の里」と重なるので、高遠の方はスケールが大きいがある意味でライバルかな?
悔しかったのは、高遠のお客さんの約半分が中国人だった。他言語パンフやアナウンスがあったし。森の杏の海外からのお客さんが0に近い。何、この違い⁈ 高遠は中央高速道路に近いから?中国人は杏の花を喜ぶと思いますが。
Takato Castle cherry blossoms. Currently at 80% of full bloom. So many visitors from overseas. Why not at Mori "Apricot Village", too?

高遠城の桜 Takato Castle CherryBlossoms 2015.4.08

高遠城の桜 Takato Castle CherryBlossoms 2015.4.08

もう、春だ!森「あんずの里」が満開! Spring is Here! Mori's Famous Apricot Blossoms in Full Bloom!

April 4, 2015: 季節 Seasons, 長野に来る理由 Reasons to Come to Nagano

森「日本一杏の里」、上の方のスケッチパーク辺りも満開!お昼は天気も温かくて良かったし。もう、春だ!

お客さんの送迎の途中で寄ってみました。二日間前にも行ったが、あっという間で花はスイッチオンって感じ。

ただ、心配は夕方から強い風で夜中から雨の予想。花は大丈夫かな?皆さん、早目に見に来てくださいね。

森「あんずの里」の花が満開 2015.4.03

森「あんずの里」の花が満開 2015.4.03


The famous apricot blossoms of nearby Mori are in full bloom. Spring is finally here!

I stopped by today on the way to drop off some guests, and was surprised to see the blossoms in full bloom.  Just 2 days ago, they were just starting.  It's as if someone turned on a switch.

Weather this afternoon was nice and warm.  From the evening, though, a strong wind picked up and rain is expected overnight.  Our poor apricot blossoms!  Everyone, please come to see them as soon as you can!

戸倉上山田温泉にも杏♪ Apricot Blossoms here, too, at Onsen Town Togura-Kamiyamada

April 2, 2015: 温泉タウン戸倉上山田 Onsen Town Togura-Kamiyamada, 季節 Seasons, 長野に来る理由 Reasons to Come to Nagano

昨日は森「日本一杏の里」の花、今日は戸倉上山田温泉の側、千曲川沿いの杏宝園さんの畑。満開で青空に春風、最高!

Apricot Blossoms in Togura-Kamiyamada Onsen, 2015.4.02

Apricot Blossoms in Togura-Kamiyamada Onsen, 2015.4.02

Yesterday was pictures of the famous apricot blossoms in Mori. Today it's Kyohoen's orchard just north of our onsen town, Togura-Kamiyamada. Flowers in full bloom, clear blue sky and a gentle spring breeze -- perfect!

Apricot Blossoms along the Chikuma River with snow-covered Mt. Takatsuma in the background

Apricot Blossoms along the Chikuma River with snow-covered Mt. Takatsuma in the background

ベルリンからSさん達を連れて行きました。Accompanied by the S. party from Berlin.

Sharing Anzu-Love Globally -- with the S. couple from Berlin.

Sharing Anzu-Love Globally -- with the S. couple from Berlin.

秋映の信州ファミリー遊び: 茶臼山動物園・恐竜公園 Fall Family Fun in Nagano: Chausuyama Zoo & Dino Park

October 18, 2014: 長野に来る理由 Reasons to Come to Nagano

Chausuyama Zoo's Cute Lesser Pandas

秋映の晴れている日に我が小学生の子供二人を連れて、長野市篠ノ井地区の茶臼山動物園と恐竜公園に行ってきました。

動物園の目玉のレッサーパンダの可愛い事!

恐竜公園の恐竜登りの楽しい事!

改めて、秋の信州のファミリー遊びとして茶臼山が良いなと思いました。

ちなみに、2014年は10月18・19日が茶臼山動物園祭りだそうです。いつものキリン餌やり体験やポニー乗り以外に、亀走り(?)大会や赤ちゃんレッサーパンダの名前募集など、色んなイベントがあるようです。

I took our 2 elementary school age kids to the Chausuyama Zoo and Dinosaur Park in Nagano City's Shinonoi District one recent fine autumn day.

I was reminded just how cute the zoo's lesser pandas are, and just how fun it is to climb a dinosaur.

Chausuyama makes a great play date destination for families with small kids.

By the way, Chausuyama Zoo's 2014 edition of its annual Zoo Festival takes place October 18th and 19th. Besides the normal activities such as feeding the giraffes and pony riding, there will also be turtle races (?), naming the baby lesser pandas, and other fun events.

茶臼山動物園 Chausuyama Zoo



Watch out -- he spits!



Misaki and the official triceratops pose with the Zenkoji Plain in the background


The Monorail Connecting the Zoo and Dino Park


スノーモンキーって、雪がなくても見る価値ある? Snow Monkeys worth seeing if no snow? This Cutie says Yes!

April 26, 2014: 長野に来る理由 Reasons to Come to Nagano

Baby Snow Monkey pic courtesy of P. Harnett

「雪がなくても、スノーモンキーを見に行く価値がある?」
とよく聞かれます。

私の答え:「もちろん!」

その理由の一つは赤ちゃんお猿です。春に生まれる赤ちゃんは可愛くて仕方がない。

地獄谷野猿公苑の萩原さんと確認したら、この春の赤ちゃんたちはもう生まれて来始まっているそうです。グリーンシーズンは小っちゃくてかわいいお猿を見るチャンスなのでお勧め!

“Are the snow monkeys worth going to see even when there is no snow?”

I get asked that question often. And my answer is, “Of course!” One reason is that the macaque babies that are born in the spring time are just the cutest little furballs that you’ll ever see. They run all over the place, chasing each other around and jumping into the onsen bath.

Hagiwara-san at the Jigokudani Wild Monkey Park confirmed that the mother monkeys have started giving birth this spring. So for visitors to Nagano during the green season, make sure to include a stop at Jigokudani to see cute little baby monkeys.

UPDATE: Video of the snow monkey park in the green season, by the Harnetts.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rPQxfQDG7Xg

地獄谷野猿公苑 Jigokudani Wild Monkey Park




Train / Bus Schedule from Kamesei Ryokan / Onsen Town Togura-Kamiyamada to the Jigokudan Snow Monkey Park for 2014 Green Season





善光寺の2014年灯明祭りは2月8~16日 Zenkoji's Tomyo 2014 Feb. 8-16

February 4, 2014: 長野に来る理由 Reasons to Come to Nagano

善光寺さんの五輪記念イルミネーションイベント「灯明祭り」は2014年にまた開催されます。2月8日(土)から16日(日)まで行われる予定。五輪の五色で善光寺の五か所を照らすイベントです。この立派なお寺が彩に光られて、なお感動的になる。
長野の2月の夜は痛いぐらい温度が低いけど、灯明祭りは見るべし。おすすめです。

Nagano City's venerable Zenkoji Temple commemorates the 1998 Winter Olympics every year with a special illumination festival called the Toumyou Matsuri. 5 areas of the temple grounds are lit up in the 5 colors of the Olympic rings. The temple's architecture is impressive in ordinary times -- with being lit up in the Olympic colors, Zenkoji takes on a whole deeper level of mysticism.

For 2014, the Toumyou Matsuri will be held from Saturday 08-February through Sunday 16-February. Every year it is held in the middle of the winter, with the temperature often being brutally cold. But getting to see Zenkoji lit up in the Olympic colors is worth it!

灯明祭り Toumyou Matsuri





長野スキーリポート: 菅平・ダボス Nagano Ski Report: Sugadiara Davos

February 2, 2014: 長野に来る理由 Reasons to Come to Nagano

Sunny day at Sugadaira Davos

先週は菅平・大松スキー場で滑った。ゲレンデがちょっと短かったもうちょっとチャレンジが欲しかったから次の週はリベンジでまた菅平に来ました。今度は太郎とダボスエリア。主の目的は奥ダボスからのスノーキャットツアーだったけどついでに太郎をダボスを息子と滑った。

菅平スキー場は場所的に割と便利。上信越高速道路の上田・菅平ICから車で約40分。(上田駅からバスも出ている;約50分、冬には一日11本。)

しかし、問題はこの旅館の若旦那はお客さんのチェックアウトと次のお客さんのチェックインしか時間を取れないので短い間しか滑れない。

菅平・大松は3時間のリフト券もスキーセットレンタルもあったから割と親切でした。太郎・ダボスエリアは3時間リフト券があるが、レンタルは一日レンタルしかない。「三時間しか滑られえんやから安くならない?」と交渉してみたが、負けました。

ぶーぶー言いながらリフトへ。ダボス、奥ダボス、太郎、皆を滑りましたが、結局大松に負けないぐらい短い。初心者には良いかもしれませんが、中級(?)ぐらい私には物足りなかった。

One week ago, I went skiing at Sugadaira's Ohmatsu Area. I was a bit disappointed with how short the courses were and the lack of variety. So this week, in making a 'revenge' trip back to Sugadaira, my son and I tried the Taro and Davos areas. One ulterior motive was to take the Oku-Davos Snow Cat tour -- more on that later.

Sugadaira is one of the most conveniently-located ski resorts in Nagano. It is only 40 minutes by car from the Ueda Sugadaira IC on the Joshinetsu Expwy, and there is bus service from Ueda Station (approx. 50 minutes, 11 runs a day in winter).

Unfortunately, for this innkeeper, my time was limited to the period between customer checkout and checkin. That was fine for at Ohmatsu, as they had not only 3-hour ski lift tickets but 3-hour ski set rental as well.

At Taro/Davos, while they did have 3-hour lift tickets, all rentals were for full day. I tried to negotiate with the guy for a 1/2 day discount, but to no avail.

So with an unexpectedly light wallet, it was off to the slopes. Kenny and I skiied pretty much all the slopes in Taro and Davos, and it turns out they are even shorter than across the plateau at Ohmatsu. Great for beginners, but a disappointment for Kenny and I.

Don't take my word for it, though. Check out this review on Snow Japan.

菅平スキー場 Sugadaira Ski Resort





民芸の美ケ原温泉 Folk Art Utsukushigahara Onsen

January 16, 2014: 長野に来る理由 Reasons to Come to Nagano

Utsukushigahara Onsen's street scene

松本市内に主の温泉地は2ヶ所ある:浅間温泉と美ケ原温泉。

美ケ原温泉は民宿から大手リゾートまで、17件の宿泊施設がある。大半の宿は小さ目な家族経営で、「民芸」の雰囲気が多い。温泉街のそばに松本民芸館もあるし、温泉組合の言葉通り、「歴史的由緒ある、落ちついた雰囲気の湯の里」です。

立ち寄り「白糸の湯」は蔵造りの景観で美ケ原温泉の全体を代表が出来る。

美ケ原温泉 Utsukushigahara Onsen



Day-use bath Shiraito no Yu