長野に来る理由 Reasons to Come to Nagano – Kamesei Ryokan (inn) in Togura-Kamiyamada Onsen, Nagano, Japan

Long-Stay Vacation in Nagano: 10 Tips with Kamesei Ryokan as Your Base

July 13, 2020: 温泉タウン戸倉上山田 Onsen Town Togura-Kamiyamada, 亀清旅館 Kamesei Ryokan, 季節 Seasons, 長野に来る理由 Reasons to Come to Nagano

How about spending an extended vacation in Nagano? Make Kamesei Ryokan your base for exploring Nagano Prefecture. Here are the 10 most popular day-trips.

１．Zenkoji Temple, Nagano City

Our onsen town, Togura-Kamiyamada, has traditionally been considered the resort of choice after visitors make their pilgrimage to Zenkoji. The venerable temple houses the "Amida Triad Sharing One Halo" image which is the oldest Buddhist image in Japan, having crossed over from the Korean Peninsula in 552. Once every 7 years it is put on display during the renowned Gokaicho ceremony. Visitors to the temple usually enter the Main Hall, and take the stairs down into a pitch-black corridor, feeling along the wall in the hopes of finding the 'key' that is located directly under said image. After transmitting prayers through the image, visitors ascend the stairs to once again be in the light, a sensation similar to being born again. More info here.

Venerable Zenkoji Temple

The main road leading to Zenkoji, "Naka-mise", is lined by souvenir shops and soba noodle restaurants. Here you are sure to find the perfect memorabilia to take home, as well as satisfy your tummy.

Access from Kamesei Ryokan: By car it is 27km (approx. 50 min.) to Zenkoji. It's best to take Route 18 and surface streets as the Expressway runs in an inconvenient direction. By train, it is 25 minutes from Togura Station to Nagano Station, and then a 5 minute bus to the temple.

Kamesei Tips: Leave your car at our inn, take the train from Togura Station, and walk from Nagano Station to Zenkoji. This allows you to enjoy walking up the Naka-mise street, as most parking lots are located behind the temple. Also, one block off Naka-mise to both the left and right are narrow lanes lined with Shukubo (temple lodging), a serene contrast to the chaotic scene of the shops and restaurants along the main street.

２．Karuizawa

Nagano Prefecture's premier resort town, Karuizawa boasts a large number of high caliber art museums and galleries, fantastic boutique shops, quaint chapels, and a smorgasbord of gourmet restaurants, all in a lush, natural setting. And that's not to mention the outlet shopping center. Plus there are the elegant Mikasa and Manpei Hotels and the fancy summer homes, giving the town an opulent atmosphere. Official info.

Classic Karuizawa; Mampei Hotel

Access from Kamesei Ryokan: For by both car and by train, there is a slow and fast option. By car, taking the Joshin'etsu Expressway and exiting at the Komoro IC, it is 50km, approx. 55 minutes. If you avoid the expressway and take the Asama Sun Line highway, it will take 10 minutes longer but the rural scenery is worth it. By train, you can transfer at Ueda to the Hokuriku Shinkansen and reach Karuizawa in 45 minutes. Or you can take the local train all the way from Togura for a leisurely 1 hour and 15 minutes (and 1/3 the price).

Kamesei Tips: Karuizawa's roads tend to get congested on weekends and holidays, especially in the summer, so take the train instead. Many head to Karuizawa to shop at the outlet stores, but the old-fashioned Kyu-Karu "Ginza" and the classy Harunire Terrace offer enticing alternatives.

３．Togakushi

The name "Togakushi" refers to a tale related to Japan's creation myth, appropriate for the area's mystical atmosphere. Perhaps the place best suited for feeling the spiritual power is the trail to Okusha, the Inner Shrine. It is lined by ancient cedar trees that give a distinct vibe of the power of nature. Togakushi is also famous for soba noodles, and there is something extra-special about the noodles prepared with the highland's clear water and clean mountain air. Togakushi hides one other secret: the eponymous Togakure-ryu ninjas. Many of our guests have come back from the Togakushi Ninja Village gushing that it was more fun than USJ! Official Info.

Zuijinmon Gate with the ancient cedar trees beyond

Access from Kamesei Ryokan: By car, there are 2 main routes. The typical way is to drive to Zenkoji and then up to Togakushi from there. 45 minutes + 45 minutes, for a total of 90 minutes. Alternatively, you can take the Joshin'etsu Expressway from the Koshoku IC to the Shinano Machi IC, and then the back roads up to Togakushi. With that route, from our door to the Okusha parking lot, it is 60 minutes. You have to pay the toll and it's the long way around, but it is considerably faster and less crowded. By train is is 25 minutes from Togura to Nagano Station, then an hour-long Alpico Bus up to Togakushi.

Kamesei Tips: Togakushi features 4 very distinct faces, depending on the season. Autumn is the most popular, with the fall leaves colors peaking in October and the new crop soba coming in November. However, spring is spectacular for bird watching and for the creamy white marsh lilies (aka skunk cabbage), summer means cool highland temperatures and playing in the streams, and in winter Togakushi is a snow shoeing paradise (ask us for great course recommendations). For ninja fans, the Ninja Village has an extensive variety of activities, but the Ninpo Center near the entrance to Okusha is much less crowded.

４．Matsumoto

Known as the Crow Castle, the formidable Matsumoto-jo is a designated National Treasure. It has been recently joined as such by Matsumoto's old Kaichi School building. Another popular destination is the Municipal Art Museum, with a selection of works by the world-renowned 'polka-dot lady', Yayoi Kusama. The Nawate-dori and Nakamachi shopping streets round out the must-see spots in central Matsumoto City. Official Info.

The stately black facade of Matsumoto Castle, aka The Crow Castle

Access from Kamesei Ryokan: By car, if using the Obasute SA Smart IC, it Matsumoto is a convenient 45 minutes from Kamesei. By train, we can provide shuttle service to Obasute Station to catch the local JR train Matsumoto Station, also 45 minutes.

Kamesei Tips: We personally are big fans of Matsumoto's craft scene. There are several unique shops along Nakamachi, including our favorite, Chikiriya. The Craft Fair held the end of May is one of the best in the country, and year-round you can go to the Matsumoto Folkcraft Museum and see some outstanding examples of Matsumoto's hand-built furniture.

5. Obuse

Famous for chestnut sweets and the ukiyo-e artist Hokusai, Obuse is particularly popular with two types of visitors: Japanese and other Asians for the chestnut mont blanc, and Westerners for the Hokusai Museum and ceiling painting of a phoenix at Gansho-in Temple. Personally, our favorite aspect is the quaint townscape, especially Chestnut Lane and all the Open Gardens.

Obuse's quaint Chestnut Lane

Access from Kamesei: By car Obuse is 45 minutes using the Joshin’etsu Expressway and the Obuse SA Smart IC (ETC card required). By train, from Togura Station to Obuse Station transferring at Nagano Station, it takes approximately 80 minutes.

Kamesei Tips: In the center of town is the Takai Kozan Musem. Here you can learn about Hokusai’s patron and see what the town was like when the famous artist resided here. Outside of the center beyond Gansho-in is another temple called Joko-ji. The enterprising head priest has undertaken many initiatives to make the temple relevant to today’s Japan. Just one project is indicated by Joko-ji’s nickname: The Slackline Temple. By the way, next door is a restaurant specializing in tofu dishes – Yummy!

6. The Roof of Japan – Kamikochi, Utsukushigahara and a variety of Ropeways and Gondolas

One of Nagano’s biggest draws are its many mountains. The Prefecture is not only home to all three of the Japanese Alps ranges (Northern, Central and Southern), but has Shiga Kogen and the “5 Northern Nagano Peaks”. Everywhere you go in Nagano you will see mountains!

Convenient Access to the Roof of Japan (Pictured: Ryuoo Ropeway

Many of our guests visit Nagano to go to the mountains, then come down to relax at our inn. Some of the easiest to access are Norikura (via the Echo Line bus), Komagatake and the Senjojiki Cirque via ropeway, Utsukushigahara Highlands and Mt. Kurumayama by driving the Venus Line and taking the Kurumayama Skylift, SORA Terrace via the Ryuoo Ropeway, Nojiri Lake Terrace on Mt. Madarao using the Tangram gondola, and Mountain Harbor high up in the Hakuba Range using the Iwatake gondola.

Access from Kamesei varies by destination. We suggest you confer with us and use our collection of brochures (and discount coupons!).

7. Mountain Climbing and Trekking

Lots of guests show up wearing hiking boots after traipsing around Nagano’s mountains and forests. We are actually fans of mountain climbing, too, and have explored most of the trails around our onsen town Togura-Kamiyamada and several throughout the Prefecture.

Explore Nagano's Wilderness

We would be happy to give advice for Nagano's popular trails, such as Mt. Asama and Shiga Kogen, as well as lesser known treks such as abandoned rail tunnels or the Birth-mountain of Kintaro, the Golden Boy -- we've explored them all. After factoring in the weather and your desired activity level, we are sure to come up with the perfect suggestion. And don't worry if the day of your expedition turns out to be rainy -- there are indoor options, too, such as rock climbing gyms.

Access as well as our Kamesei Hints depend on the actual trail so feel free to inquire.

８．Winery Tour

Nagano's wineries have been gaining attention on the global stage lately, and we are fortunate to have several "Wine Valleys" in our vicinity.

The eastern section of the Chikuma River Wine Valley is perhaps most famous for Villa d'Est Garden Farm and Winery, but don't overlook its Tomi City neighbor Rue de Vin. Mann's Winery in Komoro has a long-established history, while Chateau Mercian's new Mariko Winery in the hills above Ueda City has already made the global Top 50 list.

The northern reaches of the Chikuma River Wine Valley includes the highly-acclaimed Kusunoki Winery in Suzaka (the chardonnay is a life-changer!) and St. Cousair and its restaurant with panoramic view in Iizuna town.

Access and our Kamesei Tips will depend on your itinerary. We would be happy to provide suggestions. And with our Nagano Wine Stay Plan, you are welcome to bring your own bottle of Nagano Wine to have with your dinner. We also have an eclectic selection of local wines to enjoy with your meal.

９．Apricot Village, Fruit Paradise

The nearby Mori district is nicknamed "Anzu no Sato" (Apricot Village), as our city is Japan's #1 producer of apricots. In early April the entire valley is covered in the delicate pink blossoms. It is said you can see 100,000 apricot trees at one time from the viewpoint at the top of the valley. On a clear day, the snow-capped peaks of the Northern Japanese Alps provide a stunning backdrop.

Pastoral "Apricot Village" Mori with blossoms in the foreground and the snow-capped Alps in the distance

Apricot fruit is available for picking in late June / early July. The heritage varieties tend to be tart and are ideal for making into jam or dried fruit, but newer varieties such as Harcot are sweet enough to eat fresh off the tree. And don't forget apricot soft-serve ice cream!

Besides apricots, our area features a parade of fresh fruit year-round. Later in July following apricots are cherries and then plums and nectarines. With August comes the famous Kawanakajima peaches. September means table (eating) grapes while apple season is primarily October (Nagano's "Three Apple Siblings": Shinano Sweet, Shinano Gold and the deep-red colored Akibae, as well as the tart heritage Kogyoku) and November (the mainstay Fuji apples). Strawberries are available for picking in green houses in the winter through late spring.

Our Onsen Town Togura-Kamiyamada has several fruit orchards nearby

We are fortunate to have several grape and apple orchards within a 5 minute drive from our inn.

10. Fabled Moon-Reflecting Obasute Rice Terraces *Japan Heritage Site*

The Obasute Rice Terraces are a quick 10 minutes by car from Kamesei Ryokan. They are located on a slope at the base of the 1252-meter tall Mt. Kamuriki which towers over our city. The mountain is nicknamed “Obasute Mountain”, refering to the ancient legend about abandoning elderly people on the mountaintop. From ancient times, the area at the foot of the mountain has been renowned for its stunning views of the moon, especially a phenomenon known as “Tagoto no Tsuki” where the moon reflects in the individual rice paddies. In October 2020, Obasute was designated a Japan Heritage site for the moon-viewing story.

Obasute's moon-reflecting rice terraces

Obasute overlooks the Zenkoji Plain. One of the best places for the view is the platform of Obasute Station. The lights down in the valley at night are a popular site.

Don't miss the Obasute Night View

Access and Advice: The Obasute Rice Terraces are just 10 minutes by car from Kamesei Ryokan. You can park at the Obasute Tourism Hall on the north side and stroll the paddies from Choraku-ji Temple. We at Kamesei Ryokan through our Zukudashi Eco Tours offer guided cycling tours of the Japan Heritage site. For the night view, the local tourism association runs a special sightseeing bus. Kamesei's owner is one of the regularly scheduled guides and would love to accompany you to see the lights of the Chikuma River Valley from Obasute.

Bonus: The Snow Monkeys at Jigokudani Wild Monkey Park

No visit to Nagano would be complete without seeing the world-famous Snow Monkeys at the Jigokudani Wild Monkey Park. These are the only wild monkeys in the world that soak in an onsen bath. They draw photographers from across the globe to capture their blissful expression as they luxuriate in the hot spring water.

Blissful snow monkeys

While many people go see the monkeys during winter to see them in their snowy habitat, the babies born in the springtime are little fur-balls running all over the place making the Monkey Park a treat to visit year-round.

Playful Baby Snow Monkey

Access and Advice: By car the parking lot is 60 minutes from Kamesei Ryokan using the expressway. By public transportation, it is 25 minutes by train from Togura to Nagano, then a 45 minute express bus to the trailhead. (See the Kamesei blog for updated train / bus schedules.) Either way, there is a 30 minute walk through a beautiful evergreen forest to the actual park. If you go in the fall, during the macaques' mating season they may be, err, preoccupied and won't come down to the park. You can check the live camera feed on the park's website for the latest status.

夏休みに亀清で滞在♪　周辺観光の人気トップ10; Long Stay Vacation in Nagano: Top 10 Nearby Day Trips

July 13, 2020: 亀清旅館 Kamesei Ryokan, 季節 Seasons, 長野に来る理由 Reasons to Come to Nagano, 信州の山 Nagano’s Mountains, その他 Miscellaneous

この夏は長野で長期滞在の休みは如何でしょうか?　亀清旅館をベースにして、長野を探検しましょう！　亀清旅館のお客さんに調査した結果：　周辺のトップ10人気観光スポットを発表します。

１．善光寺

なんせ、戸倉上山田温泉は善光寺の精進落としの湯ですよ。本堂に設置してある秘仏が一光三尊阿弥陀如来様で、552年に朝鮮半島から日本に渡ってきた。日本で最も古い仏像である。七年に一度にご開帳で披露されますが、普段は本堂の下を潜る「戒壇巡り」で秘仏の下にある「カギ」を触る事が出来る。触る事によって、自分の願いがその秘仏に通じます。そして、その真っ暗の廊下からまた外に出る時に瞬間に「復活」の気持ちが感動的。

善光寺でお参りする際、仲見世通りでお土産を買ったり、信州そばを食べたりするのも決まり。

亀清旅館からのアクセス：　車で27㎞、約50分。国道18号線を下って、長野の市街に入れば看板が出ます。電車で戸倉駅⇔長野駅は25分、それからバスで約5分。

亀清アドバイス：お車の方は亀清で駐車しといて、戸倉駅から電車で行って、長野駅から善光寺まで歩く事。善光寺周辺の駐車場が混むし、大体はお寺に裏にあります。駅から歩けば、仲見世通りのお店を楽しめる。その賑やかな道の両脇の通りに宿坊が並んでいて、又奥深くて静かな佇まい。駅から善光寺までは2㎞、普通に歩けば約30分。

２．軽井沢

長野県の代表的な高原リゾート、軽井沢は自然で恵まれて、美術館やブティック店と飲食店のメッカ、可愛いチャペル、そして…アウトレット！　豪華な万平や三笠ホテルそして別荘地でリッチな気分になります。

亀清旅館からのアクセス：お車も電車も、早い方法とのんびりした方法あります。車の場合、上信越道の小諸IC経由で50㎞、約55分。高速道路を乗らずに浅間サンラインを走れば、10分ぐらい余計にかかるけど、畑や山の景色がその分の価値があり。電車は上田・軽井沢間で北陸新幹線を使えば45分で行ける。戸倉からしなの鉄道にゆっくり乗れば、軽井沢まで約1時間45分（料金は3分の1ぐらい）。

亀清からのアドバイス：お車なら週末や連休、夏休みに軽井沢はよく渋滞になるので、避けた方が良い。買い物はアウトレットが主流ですが、旧軽井沢に軽井沢彫りなど、ユニークな専門店が沢山あるし、ハルニレテラスは信州の自然を活かしたおしゃれな場所でお勧め。

３．戸隠

戸を隠す…という神話から始まって、戸隠は神秘的なパワースポット。特に戸隠奥社の参道を並ぶ杉木で自然の力を感じれる場所。戸隠そばも有名で、その高原の綺麗な水を使ってその綺麗な空気で作ったお蕎麦はやはり一味違う。それで、戸隠はもう一つな秘密がある：戸隠れ流の忍者。うちのお客さんの何組かは戸隠のちびっ子忍者村がUSJより楽しいと感動した。

亀清旅館からのアクセス：　お車は2ルートがあります。従来なのは善光寺まで出て、登っていくの45分+45分、合計90分。しかし、更埴ICから上信越道に乗って信濃町ICで降りて、裏から登れば亀清から奥社の駐車場まで60分で行ける。遠回りだし、高速代がかかるけど、早い。電車は戸倉から長野駅まで25分、Alpicoバスで戸隠まで約60分です。

亀清のアドバイス：　戸隠は四季にそれぞれの魅力がある。秋は一番人気（特に鏡池の紅葉風情が良い；10月の週末はマイカー規制がかかるのでご注意ください）。しかし、春は水芭蕉やバードウォッチング、夏は高原の涼しさや川遊び、そして冬はスノーシューのパラダイスです。良いコースを紹介しますので、ご相談してください。　忍者について、忍法センターは忍者村ほど大きくないけど、穴場的なので、お勧め。

４．松本

国宝のカラス城と呼ばれている松本城が昔から大人気で、最近は草間彌生の作品を展示している松本市美術館も注目を浴びている。縄手通りと中町で買い物も良し、旧開智学校こそ国宝に認定された。

亀清旅館からのアクセス：姨捨SAスマートICを使えば、松本・亀清の間は45分。電車の場合、姨捨駅と亀清の間の送迎は出来ますので、姨捨駅・松本駅は約45分。

亀清のアドバス：　私たちは松本の民芸文化が好きです。中町とその延長の日ノ出町で小さな楽しいお店が沢山ある（ちきりや工芸店が大好き!）。少し離れている松本民芸館で松本家具とか見れます。そして、5月末で行われるクラフトフェアは全国から集まる。

５．小布施

栗と北斎で有名な小布施町。日本やアジアのお客さんのほとんどは栗のモンブランを目指す。欧米のお客さんのほとんどは北斎館と岩松院へ。栗の小径もマスト。

亀清旅館からのアクセス：お車は長野道・小布施スマートIC経由で38㎞、約45分。電車は戸倉・小布施を長野駅経由で約80分。

亀清からのアドバイス：町の中心街に高井鴻山記念館が私たちの気に入りスポット。高井さんは北斎のパトロンでしたので、小布施町と北斎のルーツを探れる。　中心街から離れたら、岩松院の奥に浄光寺、別名「スラックラインでら」があります。まあ、とにかく、住職がお寺の歴史を守りながら、色んな発想で新しい取り組みも。隣の「茶房まめ家」のお豆腐レストランがお勧め。

６．日本の屋根：　上高地や美ヶ原、そしてロープウエーや夏リフト

長野は山の国である。北、中央、南の3つのアルプスに志賀高原や北信五岳、どこに行っても、山!　乗鞍エコラインのバス、駒ケ岳ロープウエー（千畳敷カール）、美ヶ原のビーナスラインや車山展望リフト、北志賀高原の竜王SORAテラス、斑尾・タングラムの野尻湖テラス、白馬のマウンテンハーバーなど、すべてが亀清旅館から簡単に日帰りできるし、私達が近年に自ら行ってますから様々のアドバイスが出来ます。割引券もございます。

アクセスとアドバイスは様々ありますので、お問い合わせをください。とにかく、日本の屋根から降りてきたら、亀清の温泉へどうぞ!

７．トレッキングや山登り

沢山のお客様が信州でトレッキングや登りなされる際、我が亀清旅館にお泊りになります。実は、私共もはまってますので、戸倉上山田温泉周辺の山の全てを登っているし、浅間山や志賀高原の有名な所から「金太郎の生まれた大姥山」の様な穴場的なところまで、沢山冒険してます。天気やアクティビティレベルに合わせて、様々のコース紹介が出来ます！雨の日のインドアロッククライミングなどもあります。

アクセスとアドバイスはそれこそ、色々ありますので、ご相談ください。

８．信州ワインバレー

最近、長野産のワインが話題になってきてます。素晴らしいワイナリー（景色、風情、ワイナリーレストランなど）沢山あります。私たちが特に好きなのは東御市のリュードヴァン、上田市のシャトー・メルシャン椀子ワイナリー、隣の坂城町のVino della Gatta、須坂の楠ワイナリー（このシャルドネは人生を変わる!）、飯縄のサンクゼール。

アクセスとアドバイスはまた好みを教えてくれたら、詳しく紹介できます。飲酒運転しない様に。

９．あんずの里、フルーツ狩り

日本一杏の里は近くの森地区です。4月上旬はその農村全体が薄いピンク色に染められる。見事です。一度、是非に見てください。桜と違って限られた場所ではなく森で杏の木は一目で10万本が見えると言われている。背景に雪をかぶっている北アルプスも見えるし、最高な景色です。

杏の実は6月末・7月上旬になります。杏はドライドやジャムが多いけど、この時期は生で食べられる。同じ時期にさくらんぼ狩りが出来、7～8月はネクタリンや川中島のもも、9月はぶどう、10～11月はりんご、冬と春の間はハウスのいちご。一年中フルーツ狩りが出来る。ぶどうとりんごは特に人気があって、果樹園は亀清旅館から2㎞でとっても便利。

アクセスとアドバイスはフルーツ狩りが天候によりますので、その都度に案内します。

１０．姨捨「田毎の月」棚田　＊日本遺産＊

亀清旅館から車で10分に冠着山の中腹に姨捨の「田毎の月」で有名な棚田があり、日本原風景です。俳句家の松尾芭蕉や一茶がわざわざ見に来たし、浮世絵の広重はお月さんが田んぼごとに反射している絵を作った。月の都との事で、日本遺産に認定されている。棚田と近辺の姨捨駅から善光寺平を見下ろすので、その夜景がまた格別。

アクセスとアドバイス：戸倉上山田温泉から姨捨夜景ツアーがございます。亀清旅館の主人も当番でガイドしてます。是非にご一緒に!

姨捨「田毎の月」棚田は日本遺産認定♪ The Moon-Reflecting Obasute Rice Terraces Designated "Japan Heritage"

June 19, 2020: 温泉タウン戸倉上山田 Onsen Town Togura-Kamiyamada, 長野に来る理由 Reasons to Come to Nagano

姨捨の「田毎の月」で有名な棚田は日本遺産に認定されました。

俳句名人の芭蕉や一茶がわざわざ来た姨捨の棚田は広重の浮世絵にもなりました。

姨捨「田毎の月」棚田

この日本原風景が文化庁に認めれらて、　月の都　千曲　－姨捨の棚田が作る摩訶不思議な月景色「田毎の月」ー　として伝統的な月見スポットと言う事で、日本遺産に選ばれました。

戸倉上山田温泉・亀清旅館から車で10分。週末は姨捨夜景ツアーもあり。我が亀清旅館の主人も当番でガイドしてます。喜んでご案内いたしますので、是非にお越しください！

（長野県でもう1か所も日本遺産に認定された：　上田市の塩田平。国分寺と生島足島神社が夏と冬に1回ずつ太陽の光で結ばれていて、　レイラインがづなく「太陽と太一の聖地」　～龍と生きるまち　信州上田・塩田平～　で認められました。　姨捨と塩田平の日本遺産の詳しくは　ここ　と　ここ）

The legendary moon-reflecting Obasute Rice Terraces have been designated as a Japan Heritage site. Haiku masters such as Matsuo Basho and Kobayashi Issa traveled to Obasute just to see moon over the rice fields. Famed Ukiyoe artist Hiroshige made one of his wood block prints depicting the moon rising over the terraces. Japan's Agency for Cultural Affairs recognized the important moon-viewing heritage of Obasute, and added it to it's highly selective list of Japan Heritage sites.

The Obasute Rice Terraces are 10 minutes by car from Onsen Town Togura-Kamiyamada and our inn, Kamesei Ryokan. Our owner is one of the guides for the Obasute Night View Tour, so please come and see one of Japan's newest Heritage Sites yourself!

Love Letter to Food in Nagano 長野の食文化にエール

March 8, 2020: 長野に来る理由 Reasons to Come to Nagano, グルメFoodie

海外メディアに長野の食文化の感想を頼まれた。その答えです。

An overseas journalist asked for our opinion on food in Nagano. She wanted to know what the signature dishes are and the best restaurants, with a focus on international cuisine and dietary restrictions.

I’d like to share the list I put together, but please be forewarned I am biased for our onsen town Togura-Kamiyamada.

Nagano is famous for buckwheat noodles aka soba. There are highly regarded soba restaurants throughout the Prefecture, including Kaya here in our town (historical thatched-roof building that used to be a sake brewery; served authentically with an actual wasabi root that you can grate yourself),

Kaya's historical thatched-roof building

Kaya's authentic soba with an actual wasabi root to grate yourself

Katana-ya in Ueda City (Over 300-year history -- longer than my country! Whatever you do, don't order the super-size. You'll be there for days trying to finish it.),

Katana-ya (Lining up to get in)

and the venerable Kusabue (various locations). Recently some younger chefs are opening soba restaurants with some creative twists. And some areas have regional specialties such as what they mix the buckwheat with or how the noodles are served. For example, Iiyama City's Tomikura district uses the root of a local plant instead of flour. Pictured below is Kajika-tei in Tomikura. Next to the soba is in the photo is Iiyama's distinctive 'sasa-sushi' -- sushi rice with wild mushrooms wrapped in a bamboo leaf.

But real soba fans like to drive up the highlands / plateaus (e.g. Togakushi or Kaida Kogen) where the buckwheat is actually grown. There’s something extra special about eating soba near the buckwheat fields, made in the clear mountain air with clean mountain water. We usually go to Yamaguchi-ya in Togakushi. Their dining room has a huge picture window so on a clear day you can enjoy a view of Togakushi Mountain with your soba. (As a bonus, the owner is an actual Toguakure-ryu ninja.)

Soba-meister and Togakure-ryu ninja Yamaguchi-san (2nd from right)

Besides soba, Nagano’s soul food is a type of dumpling called oyaki. It is vegetable filling surrounded by a flour shell and fried, steamed, or (traditionally) cooked in coals. Pictured below is Ogawa-no-sho, famous for the latter.

Cooking oyaki dumplings in coals at Ogawa-no-sho by Zenkoji Temple

The best (yes, my bias) is Shichifuku in our town, . While at many touristy places the oyaki is of questionable freshness, at Shichifuku she grills them after you order so they come piping hot (they go great with a cold beer!). Common oyaki fillings are daikon radish, eggplant, and nozawana, a type of turnip green. Shichifuku serves all three of those along with a dessert version filled with sweet purple adzuki beans.

Nagano's Shinshu-Shinmachi district is famous for raising sheep, so mutton is popular, too. Known as Genghis Khan, it is usually grilled at your table. In our town, Kimijima-en is the place to go. Their apple-based dipping sauce is the best!

Manzo's original facade. (They recently remodeled and have a new, much fancier entrance.)

For other Nagano ‘delicacies’, this ocean-less prefecture gets creative with sources of protein. Things can get pretty deep. Gotoku-tei near Nagano Station can take care of your craving for bee larvae or stir-fried crickets, as well as the more common ‘basashi’ – horse meat sashimi. Try their gibier dishes, too. Gotoku-tei’s owner Miyashita-san is also a Togakure-ryu ninja.

Gibier hotpot at Gotoku-tei.

As for different types of cuisine, as with all of Japan ramen and tonkatsu are well-represented. Eating good ramen is almost a religious experience in Japan. Just in our town, we have an excellent variety of ramen shops. Kame-ya has a good miso ramen, and one of their dishes is served with the toppings making a picture.

Kame-Ya's miso ramen

Issei’s signature ramen features a “W” (double) soup of both tonkotsu (pork bone) and fish. Yoshiya’s has a soup base made of baby clams (great for people who don’t eat meat).

Yoshiya's baby clam ramen (bottom right) with their signature dish, grilled"horumon" (intestines, stomach, etc.)

A younger guy just moved back to town and opened up Ukigumo last October. His specialty is tsukemen with a hot chili powder soup. (If you're not familiar with 'tsukemen', it is basically deconstructed ramen with the soup and noodles served separately. You dip the noodles in the soup to eat.)

Ukigumo's signature Tsukemen with hot chili powder dipping sauce

For Tonkatsu, the southern Nagano town of Komagane is famous for a version with a sweet sauce called “Sauce-katsu”. One restaurant in our town has a version that is a local legend. Daikokuya’s nin-tare katsu features a ‘tare’ (sauce) with ninniku (garlic). If you like garlic, err, love garlic, this dish is epic.

Our area’s particular specialty is oshibori udon. We take the fat udon noodles and a locally-grown, really, really, really spicy daikon radish and grate the radish and in the radish broth you have to add miso paste to tame it down, then dip udon and eat. Kohaku is especially famous.

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For international, I’m a snob when it comes to Thai, and our town’s My Thai is superb. . Our town also has a fancy French restaurant, Lapis Lazuli but I have to plead ignorance – I’ve never had the money to go there. We have some reputable Italian, but I recently went to one that I want to take my parents to next time they come (it’s that excellent). It’s the restaurant named Vino della Gatta attached to the winery in our neighboring town, Sakaki. So you get excellent Italian and can try out Nagano’s wine.

Our town has a new Indian restaurant but when I tried to go they happened to be closed so can’t comment yet.

When in Japan, having a formal kaiseki-style meal at least once is a must. Our chef’s version is fairly creative and fairly reasonable, www.kamesei.jp.

Kaiseki-style dinner by Kamesei Ryokan's Chef Takei.

For vegans, the above-mentioned oyaki and oshibori udon are popular. For gluten-free, some soba shops including the above-mentioned Kaya offer some soba made of 100% buckwheat flour (80/20 or 70/30 is more common) which works as long as you substitute salt for the dipping sauce.

Both our chef’s kaiseki and the above-mentioned Gotoku-tei can handle most dietary restrictions. But when it comes to halal, pork and alcohol-free is possible, but not full halal.

For halal, if you’ve got the money, lapis lazuli, If not, Kebab World in Ueda.

Nagano’s restaurant “scene” is what you make of it. The ski resorts of Hakuba and Nozawa Onsen have increasingly global apres-ski scenes. Matsumoto City has a great bar scene, including some new craft beer breweries (as well as some great bakeries). There are an increasing number of coffee shops and bean roasters popping up for the caffeine crowd.

Here in our town Togura-Kamiyamada, there are 100+ restaurants and not a single national chain. Each one is run by an owner-chef. At many of them, you can sit at the counter and chat with the chef and regular customers (the yakitori restaurant Ushiwaka is especially great for that).

And some of the restaurants are as quirky as their owners, like Rokkatei decorated with European antiques and besides fondue, their signature dish is a tofu steak.

Rokkatei's iconic tofu steak with demi-glace sauce.

For my wife and I, our favorite food 'scene' is to go for a drive out to Nagano's rural by-ways, enjoying the mountain scenery along the way, and stopping at a quaint restaurant before heading to a day-use onsen bath house. One such destination is Cafe Terrace Momo. (As a bonus, their menu is entirely vegan.)

Mari eating dessert in Cafe Momo's garden

松代焼の販売を始まりました Now Selling Matsushiro-Yaki Pottery

February 7, 2020: 亀清旅館 Kamesei Ryokan, 長野に来る理由 Reasons to Come to Nagano

我が亀清旅館で新たな実践：　松代焼の販売。Our latest service for our guests: Selling Matsushiro-yaki pottery.

最近は当館の売店を少しずつ工夫してます。
今まで売っていた島屋さんの甘露煮と杏宝園の半生杏に加えて、
木の花の漬物と高村商店のしょうゆ豆、そして今度は松代焼。
お客様が喜んでくれるかな?
松代焼の販売を始まりました！
私たちが大好きな色合いの陶芸、松代焼は長野県の伝統工芸。近くの長野市松代地区で200年の歴史。
手頃の料金で、信州の旅のお土産に🎵
Our local pottery, Matsushiro-yaki, now sold here at Kamesei Ryokan.
We love the Aurora borealis-like wavy blue-green of the glaze. This pottery is a designated heritage craft of Nagano Prefecture and has been being made in Nagano City’s Matsushiro district for 200 years.
Matsushiro-yaki would make the perfect souvenir for your trip to Nagano, and we offer it at reasonable prices.

冬こそ、戸隠へ行こう！ Togakushi is Great in Winter, Too!

December 27, 2019: 季節 Seasons, 長野に来る理由 Reasons to Come to Nagano

戸隠はお蕎麦と神秘的な自然と忍者で有名です。

冬は忍者が冬眠（忍法センターもちびっこ忍者村が閉じている）が

戸隠そばは冬にも味が変わらず、最高に美味しいです。

戸隠奥社の杉並木は雪景色でさらに綺麗です。

亀清旅館からアクセスはしなの鉄道＋アルピコバスで楽です。２０１９・２０２０年冬の時刻表を作りました。

Togakushi is an easy day trip from our inn, Kamesei Ryokan. It's a 25 minute train + 60 minute bus. Schedule for Winter 2019/2020 as above.

Snow Monkey Schedule for Winter 2019/2020 冬季スノーモンキー時刻表　

December 9, 2019: 温泉Onsens, 季節 Seasons, 長野に来る理由 Reasons to Come to Nagano

Kamesei Ryokan is a convenient 25 minute train + 45 minute express bus to the trailhead for the Jigokudani Wild Monkey Park. The world-famous Snow Monkeys are an ever-popular day trip from our inn. We updated the train and bus schedule for the 2019 / 2020 Winter Season.

For this season, Nagaden Bus has increased the express bus frequency. Also new for this season is a QR Payment stand at the Nagano Station East Exit during weekends and holidays, which will make purchasing the 2-day Snow Monkey Pass a breeze.

This winter, come to Kamesei Ryokan to enjoy our relaxing inn and snowy gardens, indulge in our rejuvenating thermal onsen baths and feast on our chef's sumptuous kaiseki-style dinner, while making a side trip to see the blissful faces of the macaques as they soak in their onsen bath.

地獄谷野猿公苑の登口は亀清旅館から電車で２５分と急行バスで４５分。当館からのお出かけスポットとして相変わらず人気です。時刻表を２０１９・２０２０年の冬季で更新しました。長電バスの本数が増えて、今年からQRコード支払いが可能となりました。

この冬は亀清旅館や戸倉上山田の温泉らしいお湯そして我がChef武井の創作懐石料理を、その可愛いスノーモンキーと合わせて楽しましょう！

読売新聞の次のコラムが11月2日版。「交流系の観光」テーマ。My Next Yomiuri Shimbun Column on New Tourism

November 1, 2019: 温泉タウン戸倉上山田 Onsen Town Togura-Kamiyamada, 長野に来る理由 Reasons to Come to Nagano, 青い目のおもてなし This American’s Omotenashi, サイクリング Cycling

読売新聞（長野県版）の次のコラムが11月2日です。編集される前の文章は下記です。プロに磨かれた文章は2日の新聞に是非にどうぞ。

My next column for the Nagano edition of the Yomiuri Shimbun newspaper will be out on 02-November. The gist of the message is that tourism is evolving from just trying to increase the number of tourists and getting them to spend more money, to a form that brings more overall benefit to the local community through meaningful interaction. One example I give is timely with its rugby connection (the Japan Rugby World Cup final will take place on the 2nd). I explain one of our recent Zukudashi Eco Tours cycling tours. We had two participants from New Zealand and when we passed an apple orchard, the farmer called out, "Tyler-san!" I often take guests INTO her fields and experience helping with her farm work. One of the New Zealanders was Maori, and he did a haka dance for the farmer. I bet that was the first time in history for a real-life Maori to do a real-life haka dance in a Nagano apple orchard. The guest enjoyed sharing his culture, and the farmer appreciated it as well.

観光業界はとにかくお客さんを一人でも増やし、一円でも多く落としてもらう事が基本です。しかし、最近はその常識が変わってきました。訪ねる人数だけではなく、地元の皆さんにメリットがあるかどうかが重要です。例えば、外から来る方との交流で自分達に新しい発見やモノの見方が得られるとか。

一つな温かい事例があります。なおかつ今、開催されているラグビーワールドカップの関連もあります。

私はこの戸倉上山田温泉で「ずくだしエコツアー」と言う事業を起こしました。レンタサイクルそしてガイド付きサイクリングと街歩きツアーを提供してます。サイクリングツアーで一番大事なのは自転車から降りる事です。田んぼやリンゴ畑などの周りを走って、農家さんが作業をしていたら自転車を止めて、降りて、「手伝わせてください」と実際に畑に入いります。はぜ掛けなどのコツを教えて頂きながら、皆で体験します。お客さんはお米の育ち方を習って、永遠に忘れられない思い出になります。なおかつ、農家さんは作業が少しでも軽くなるうえ、彼らの努力が分かち合ってもらえるので嬉しいです。

先日はこういうエピソードがありました。ニュージーランドからのお二人をサイクリングツアーでガイドした時に自転車でりんご畑を通ったら「タイラーさん！」と畑の中から声をかけられました。良く田んぼの仕事などでお客さんと交流するおばさんとおじさんでした。私たちは自転車を置いて、どういう仕事なされているか見せて頂きました。そして、私が一人のお客さんの顔と体系を良く見て、気付きました。「もしかしたら、マオリ族ですか？」と聞いてみました。「そうです」と。「ハカは踊れますか?」「踊れるさ！」「じゃ、この農家さんに見せてくれますか?」

恐らく歴史上初めて、本物のマオリ族が本物のハカを長野のりんご畑で踊りました。

りんご農家のお二人が大喜びでした。

これからはもっとこういう交流のある観光を目指したいと思っています。

朝採りなおかつ初物のぶどうを！　First grapes of the Season!

September 7, 2019: 温泉タウン戸倉上山田 Onsen Town Togura-Kamiyamada, 季節 Seasons, 長野に来る理由 Reasons to Come to Nagano, 青い目のおもてなし This American’s Omotenashi, グルメFoodie

海外からの留学生ととぶどう園に行きました。今晩の我が亀清旅館のお客さんは初物の朝採りぶどうを食べられます。巨峰とシナノスマイルと黄華の三色。

そして、売店用に話題の皮ごと食べられる種無しナガノパープルも。特別な価格で提供してます。
今年の夏は雨や曇りの日が多かったせいか、ぶどうの出来上がりは去年より1週間ぐらい遅れました。この頃は天気になって、良い色と味になってきました。りんごの方は雨のおかげで大き目になり、豊作の予感です。
ぶどうは恐らく10月上旬まで、
りんごはシナノスィート、シナノゴルド、秋映(長野りんご三兄弟）が10月、ふじりんごが11月の予定です。
信州の果実の秋を満喫しましょう！採りたてが一番美味しいですよ！

Grape Season in here!
I took our exchange student from Hungary to Nakajima Orchard to buy the new-crop grapes so serve as dessert to our guests tonight here at Kamesei Ryokan. We got 3 colors of grapes: the purple 'Kyoho', red 'Shinano Smile' and green 'Ouka'.
I also got some bunches of the popular 'Nagano Purple' variety to sell at our front desk. They are seedless, and you can eat the skin (for 'Kyoho' and many other Japanese varieties, you usually have to pop the skin off before eating). Fresh picked this morning and first of the season, and priced very reasonably.
The orchardist said all the rain and the lack of sun this summer meant this year's grape crop is maturing about a week later than usual. Apple trees on the other hand loved the extra rain and it looks like this year will be a bumper crop.
The grape harvest should continue through early October.
Apple season will start in earnest with the early autumn varieties in October, including the 3 Nagano Apple Siblings: the red and aptly-named 'Shinano Sweet', the crisp and green 'Shinano Gold', and deep-red colored 'Akibae'. Then the mainstay 'Fuji' apples are usually harvested in November.
We hope you come and enjoy Nagano's delicious autumn fruits!
中島農園 Nakajima Orchard http://www.nakajima-nouen.com/

2019年お盆のお勧め穴場: 池の平湿原 Recommended Secret Spot for O-Bon, 2019

August 12, 2019: 温泉Onsens, 季節 Seasons, 長野に来る理由 Reasons to Come to Nagano, グルメFoodie, 信州の山 Nagano’s Mountains

お盆シーズンになりました。

「どこへ行っても混むからな」

そういう時、亀清旅館お勧めの穴場的な観光スポットへ行こう!

2018年は冠着山の「久露滝」で滝シャワーを紹介しました。

2019年はトレッキングと秘湯：　池の平湿原と天狗温泉。

今回のコースは下記です：

・浅間サンラインから94号を上る。この「新張」交差点は亀清旅館・戸倉上山田温泉から車で30分　←便利！

・途中のアトリエフロマージュでチーズフォンデュやスイーツを楽しめます

・湯ノ丸高原　←ビジターセンターで花などの情報をチェック

・林道で池の平湿原へ。車を止めて（500円）、トレッキングを。ベーシックな湿原コースは距離2.1km、高低差60m、所要時間90分。小さいお子さんやご年配の方でも楽で回れる。見晴らし台を通る三方ヶ峰コースは距離2.1km, 高低差120m, 所要時間2時間半。ちょっと大変ですが、湿原を上か見れて、浅間山の景色も素晴らしい。池の平湿原の標高が2000mで、下より気温が約10℃低い。真夏でも涼しい。なおかつ、穴場スポットですから、混まない。

・再び林道で高峰高原へ。途中は激しい道になります。高峰高原から佐久平を見下ろす眺めが格別！

・高峰高原からチェリーパークラインで下る。

・途中の脇道で天狗温泉「浅間山荘」という秘湯があります。日本一赤い温泉と呼ばれて、独特な鉄分の濃いお湯です。（立ち寄り湯800円）

浅間サンライン→湯ノ丸→高峰→天狗温泉→浅間サンラインは全部でたった42㎞のループになります。我が亀清旅館から近いので、東京方面への帰りの途中でも便利です。この夏は高原のトレッキングと、秘密の日本一赤い温泉を楽しんでいてください!

なお、2019年8月7日に浅間山が噴火しまして、火山レベル３となりました。火口から４ｋｍは山入り禁止。このコース（湯ノ丸高原、池の平湿原、高峰高原、天狗温泉・浅間山荘）に影響が無いです。無いけど噴火による不評被害が心配です。応援を兼ねて、訪ねましょう！ アップデート：　8月19日に火山レベル２に下がりました。

Escape the heat -- and the crowds -- this summer using this suggested 1/2 day driving course, the start of which is a quick 30-minutes from Kamesei Ryokan. Enjoy trekking the relatively-unknown Ikenotaira Marsh followed by a soak in the rusty-red waters of the secretive Tengu Onsen.