長野県はどこに行っても、雄大な山々が見えます。最近は天気が良いし、その青空と雪白の山の姿を見る度にホッとします。写真もなるべく撮ります。ここでいくつかを紹介したいと思います。

今回は鹿教湯温泉からの浅間山。火山灰も出ていました。

Everywhere you go in Nagano, you are sure to see many majestic mountains. Lately, we've had beautiful weather, so the sight of the brilliant blue skies contrasting with the snow capped mountains hits me every time I see them. And as much as possible I try to stop and take a picture. I'd like to share some of them with everybody.

This is Mt. Asama as seen from Kakeyu Onsen in Ueda. Notice the plume of volcanic ash coming from the summit.

長野県は本当に良い温泉で恵まれています。その温泉を海外の方に伝えようと思って、友人のPeterさんに手伝って英字の本を作っています。今回に回ったのは東信の代表の温泉と宿:

田沢温泉　ますや旅館
別所温泉　柏屋別荘
別所温泉　花屋
鹿教湯温泉　齊藤ホテル

それぞれのお湯は素晴らしいし、
ますやも柏屋別荘も花屋も歴史的な風情のある木造建物で、私は個人的に大好きです。
斎藤ホテルの大浴場の露天風呂は広くて美しい庭の中で最高です。

長野の温泉は日本人向けの日本語の情報が沢山あるけど、英語圏向けのが少ない;こんな良い温泉を伝えないともったいない！という事で、この本を頑張ります！

Nagano Prefecture is blessed with so many fabulous onsens. I am in the process of helping my buddy Peter write a book for English speakers to showcase Nagano's best onsens. We took a tour of some of eastern Nagano's top onsens:

Tazawa Onsen, Masuya Ryokan
Bessho Onsen, Kashiwaya Bessou
Bessho Onsen, Hanaya
Kakeyu Onsen, Saito Hotel

Each onsen has their own unique hot spring mineral water,
Masuya, Kashiwaya Bessou and Hanaya in particular have historical multi-story wood buildings full of intriguing character,
and Saito Hotel's outdoor bath has one of the best garden settings.

There is plenty of info out there about Nagano's many onsens in Japanese for Japanese people, but so little in English. Hence the need for a book on Nagano's Top 100 Onsens. Peter is hard at work researching it, and I am helping in any way I can.

ますや旅館 Masuya Ryokan
柏屋別荘 Kashiwaya Bessou
花屋 Hanaya
斎藤ホテル Saito Hotel

白馬のついでに大町の道の駅・白糸の湯温泉施設「ぽかぽかランド美麻」にお風呂を頂きました。長野県の温泉の英字本を書いているPeterさんと一緒に寄りました。

Peterさんはお風呂の数（ローリングバス、アクアジュビナエステ、打たせ、ぬる湯など）と露天風呂の隣の山の景色を借りたような上手な作りを気に入ったようです。長野県のトップ１００温泉を紹介する今作っている本でしょうかいするそうです。

私は悲観的になっちゃったかもしれないけど、塩素の匂いという第一印象から、内風呂のタイル作り（より自然な資材を求めているかな？）や露天風呂のプラスチック竹の塀（プラスチックが嫌い！）でちょっとがっかりでした。しかし、確かに露天風呂の庭が素敵でした。

On the way to Hakuba, I stopped at one of Omachi City's 'michi no eki' road-side station and onsen bath facility, 'Shiroito no Yu' Onsen "Poka-Poka Land Miasa". I was accompanied by my buddy Peter who is writing a book in English on Nagano's onsens.

Peter-san was impressed by the variety of baths (jacuzzi, waterfall, lukewarm bath, etc.) as well as how the outdoor bath's rock garden 'borrowed' the scenery of the nearby hill. Apparently Poka-Poka will make the cut for his Top-100 Nagano Onsens list.

I may be getting grumpy in my old age, but for me the first impression was the smell of chlorine. And the indoor baths were all lined with tile -- I prefer more natural materials. And the plastic bamboo fence separating the mens and womens baths was ugly. But the outdoor bath's garden was certainly thoughtfully laid out.

ぽかぽかランド美麻 Poka-Poka Land Miasa

白馬は本当に雪のパラダイスです。この冬は野沢温泉や志賀高原の方は雪が多い（多過ぎるぐらい？）けど、イベントの為に白馬に行きましたので雪はたっぷりありました。

写真は白馬五竜のナイター風情です。皆さんが楽しそうにすべていた。私も滑りたくてしょうがなかったけど、今回はインバウンド関係の交流会の目的でした。長野県は中国、韓国、ベトナムからの交換留学生を呼んで、雪の体験ツアーを行いました。県の公式ブロガー・インバウンド大使として私が呼ばれました。学生に「長野のアウトドアーの楽しさをフェスブックでアップして仁」と応援しておきました。

食事会のエンタテインメントは何と鬼島太鼓でした。お正月に長野駅前の時の演奏で出会ってから、私が大ファンになった。

今回は滑らないで帰ったのはいけない。リベンジでまた白馬に行かんとあかん。

Hakuba is truly a winter paradise. This season, Nozawa Onsen, Shiga Kogen and areas further northeast have been getting more snow (almost too much snow!), but I visited Hakuba to partake in an event, and there was definitely plenty of snow.

Pictured is the action at Hakuba Goryu's night ski. All the skiers and boarders sure looked like they were enjoying the slopes. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to join them. I was there for a function put on by the prefecture to welcome a group of exchange students from China, Korea and Vietnam. I was invited as an official blogger / Inbound Ambassador for the prefecture's foreign language website. My role was to encourage the students to blog/tweet/facebook about their time enjoying Nagano's outdoors.

The evening included entertainment by none other than Kijima Taiko. I first saw them perform outside of Nagano Station during New Years, and have become a huge fan!

My visit to Hakuba this time didn't include skiing, so I need to make revenge and come back to ski!

長野県外国語HP Nagano's official foreign language website

長野県は本当に山の国です。人が住める平らな場所がかなり限られている。千曲川や犀川、木曽川などで作られた谷ぐらいしかない。東信の上田市の中心はそうやって千曲川の周辺ですが、その西側に珍しく平らな場所がある:塩田平。

塩田平が住宅や畑、大学、シッピングモールなどがあって、つまり、現代的な街に見える。しかし、その表面の下は長い歴史がある。

塩田平の西側に1000年以上前からあった別所温泉がある。鎌倉時代に信州の首都だった。「信州の鎌倉」と呼ばれて、そのころから国宝八角三重塔を有する安楽寺や、善光寺に向かっている北向観音等のお寺さんが特殊。

北側は戦国時代の上田が原合戦を記念する上田古戦場公園がある。

南側に806年から歴史が続いてきた生島足島神社がある。位置的に日本のおへそだと言われて、日本全体を守る神の神社である。

この寒い冬の日に塩田平を訪ねました。ある細い道をはしていたら、高さ13メーターの鳥居を見かけました。色で分かったけど、生島足島神社の鳥居です。塩田平と周辺の山々の背景とこの巨大の鳥居の写真をお送りします。塩田平のシンボルだと思った。

Nagano's geography is dominated by mountains -- lots of them. There's hardly any flat places where people can build proper place to live. The towns are mostly gathered along the few river valleys, like those of the Chikuma, Sai and Kiso rivers.

To the west of the city of Ueda, however, is a relatively wide, flat spot away from the city's center that's down by the banks of the Chikuma River. This area is called the Shioda Plain. It is filled with houses, rice fields, orchards, a couple of universities, a shopping mall.

All in all a very modern facade. If you dig a bit deeper though, you'll realize the Shioda Plain has a very, very deep history.

On the western edge is an onsen, Bessho, that's been around for over 1000 years. Back in the Kamakura era, it hosted the prefecture's capital. Several major temples were built at that time, including Anraku-ji which features a 3-story pagoda that is on the national historical registry, and Kitamuki ('north-facing') Kannon which is lined up with the south-facing Zenkoji Temple in Nagano City. These temples have earned Bessho the nickname 'Little Kamakura'.

On the north side of the Shioda Plain is a marker designating the location of the Uedagahara Gassen, one of the major regional battles during the Warring States era.

And on the south side is Ikushima Tarushima Shrine, which dates back to the year 806. The distinctly vermillion-colored shrine claims to be at the geographic center of Japan and houses the kami ('god') that protects the entire country.

I recently made another trip to the area, and came across a 13-meter tall torii gate. Judging by its color, I knew it was related to the Ikushima Tarushima Shrine. The gigantic gate with the plain spreading out in the distance surrounded by all of those mountains really seemed to symbolize the Shioda Plain.

以前の生島足島神社の記事 Earlier entry on Ikushima Tarushima Shrine

長野の温泉は色々と調査している中で、今回は下諏訪温泉。

下諏訪町観光協会によると、
「下諏訪町には２０カ所の源泉があり、毎分５１００リットルの温泉が湧き出ている...旅館やホテルなど３０軒があります。」

元々宿場町と諏訪大社の参拝関係で生まれた温泉街。兄弟の上諏訪温泉と比較したら家族経営な小さい宿が多く、住宅や商店と交われている落ち着いた雰囲気な温泉街。諏訪大社の前に揃っているようで、諏訪湖から約1.5km離れている位地。

（上諏訪温泉は逆に大手ホテル式宿が諏訪湖沿いに並んである。）

湯質はナトリウムとカルシウムの成分が入っていて、透明無臭。微妙な塩っぽい味がする。大半はかけ流しだそうです。

足湯は４つ、公衆浴場は8ヶ所があります。日帰り入浴OKの旅館は７軒があり、「ほんわかゆうゆう券」を1000円で買えば2軒に入れる。「綿の湯」という伝説によると、下諏訪温泉は女神様の化粧水から出たそうです。その伝説を記念するモニュメントもある。

今回は私がお世話になった宿「ぎん月」のお風呂にしか入らなかった。きん月さんに鯉の池のある日本庭園の隣に立派な木造の小屋で男女別な露天風呂がありました。下諏訪温泉の代表的なお風呂だそうです。建物は風情があって、気持ち良かった。
本陣関係「聴泉閣亀」や、秋宮隣の雄大な「ホテル山王閣」と3.3㎞離れている毒沢鉱泉「神乃湯」（鉄分湯の秘湯）は次回に入ってみたいと思った。

そして、一つな入ってみたい公衆浴場があった：菅野温泉。大社通りトンネル状の通路を入って、木の温もりのある昭和レトロの入口は特徴。

中仙道趣散策、下諏訪大社の参拝、時計やオルゴール博物館、明治時代からのせんべい屋さんや羊羹屋さん、いい立ち寄りのお湯。亀清旅館・戸倉上山田温泉へのお出かけの途中で寄る場所としておすすめスポットの一つ。

Next up on my research of Nagano's many onsens is Shimo-Suwa.

Shimo-Suwa Onsen started out as the only post town on the old Nakasendo Road with a natural hot spring. The town further developed as a pilgrimage destination with its Suwa Grand Shrine's Akimiya and Harumiya (Fall and Spring shrines).

According to the local tourism association, 20 onsen wells pump out 5,100 liters of hot spring mineral water per minute, supplying the approx. 30 inns, 4 footbaths and 8 public baths. There is also a 'monument' dedicated to "Wata no Yu" legend about how the onsen was discovered by a goddess as she used the water for its beautifying properties.

Shimo-Suwa's inns are nestled around the entrance to the Grand Shrine Akimiya. They are mostly smaller, family-run inns and are interspersed amongst houses and shops making for a relaxed atmosphere. The location is about 1.5km up from Lake Suwa.

Shimo-Suwa's sister onsen, Kami-Suwa on the other side of Lake Suwa, on the other hand, is made up of mostly large-scale western style hotel-type ryokans lining the lake.

7 of the inns permit day use bathing. With the 1,000 yen 'Honwaka Yuyu' pass, you can use the baths at 2 different inns.

I only got to check out the onsen baths at the inn I stayed at, Gingetsu. That inn features an outdoor bath divided mens and womens in a beautiful traditional wood building next to their Japanese garden and koi pond. It's apparently one of the more representative baths for all of Shimo-Suwa.

Next time I want to check out a few other inns and one of the public baths.
Kameya is one of the more historical inns and is related to the original 'Honjin', the main inn from the Edo post town days.
Hotel Sannokaku is adjacent to the Grand Shrine Akimiya's parking lot and is accordingly grand is size and appearance.
In nearby Dokusawa Onsen (3.3 km away) is a "Hi-tou" (secret onsen). Kami no Yu's baths apparently feature orange colored mineral waters high in iron content.
And then there's a funky public bath, Sugeno Onsen. The entrance from Taisha-dori street is actually like a tunnel, and the actual entrance to the bath features warm wooden construction from Japan's Showa-era golden years. It's apparently well known for its quaint historical charm.

With its Nakasendo townscape, venerable Suwa Grand Shrine, the watch and piano box museums, and all these great spots for an onsen bath, Shimo-Suwa would make a great to stop on the way to Kamesei Ryokan and our from our onsen town, Togura-Kamiyamada.

下諏訪温泉Shimo-Suwa Onsen

八坂刀売神、
女神様の化粧水からうまれた綿の湯、
御神渡り、
等々、信州の下諏訪は神々の伝説が数えれないぐらい多い。

その神々が泊まるまちに私は初めて泊まりました。観光では何回観光来た事があったが、イマイチ下諏訪の「文化」が分からなかった。春宮・秋宮、七年に一度の御柱、一年前ぐらいから話題になった万治の石仏など部分的に知っていたが、実際に泊まってゆっくり体験しないと身に付かないところもある。

地元の諏訪の方々に案内や説明していただいてそして自ら歩いたり、見たり、食べたり、お湯に入ったりしたら下諏訪の「文化」が何となく分かってきました。
旧甲州道中と中仙道の合流点そして今まで残る街道の面影を持つ細い道を歩いて、
中仙道沿いの唯一の温泉、神の湯と言われているその下諏訪のナトリウム成分が高くて微妙に塩っぽい温泉に体を癒して、
御柱の参加者の深い想い、死より深い想いのお話を聞いて、
諏訪湖の御神渡りの話から始めて、湖はどうやって周辺に影響するか、そして耳が痛くするほどその自然の冷蔵庫の現象を実際感じて、
下諏訪の文化はこういうところからうまれているでしょう。

しかしまだまだある。オルゴールの技術、明治時代からの和菓子屋、トンネルの中の温泉銭湯、龍の口から流れる秋宮の御神湯、まだまだ沢山の文化がある。

神々が泊まるまち、泊まってみては？

The main goddess of the Shinto Suwa-sect, Yasakatomenokami, settled here.
The goddess Megumikami used the water here as her beauty water, resulting in the creation of a mineral water hotspring.
When the gods from the Upper Shrine cross Lake Suwa, they leave a path in the frozen lake surface.

Located on the northeastern bank of Lake Suwa, Nagano's largest lake, Shimo-Suwa originated as a post town on the old Nakasendo Road connecting Kyoto and Edo (old Tokyo). The Old Koshu-Dochu highway branches off from here and passes through Kofu City (neighboring Yamanashi Prefecture's capital) on an alternate route to Edo.

Besides its importance as an intersection of major Edo-era roads, Shimo-Suwa is also the home of two of the four Grand Shrines of the afore-mentioned Suwa sect of Shintoism. The other two Grand Shrines are located on the opposite side of Lake Suwa in Kami-Suwa. ('Shimo' means 'lower', 'Kami' means 'upper', pertaining to their respective positions in relation to Edo.) Hence it is a major pilgrimage destination.

More recently, Shimo-Suwa has gained distinction as a center of clockwork engineering. That heritage is made evident today by the Lake Suwa Clockwork, Science Museum 'Gishodo' with its large scale astronomical water-driven clock, and the Suwako Orgel Museum 'Somei-kan' for music boxes.

Edo era post town, the Grand Shrines, modern engineering -- that's Shimo-Suwa as seen from the outside. And that's the Shimo-Suwa I had known from my past, brief sightseeing trips there. But I'd always sensed that there was a lot more, a side that could only be understood by staying a night. So when the Nagano Ryokan Junior Association held a meeting there, I jumped at the opportunity to go and spend a night.

Seeing the Nakasendo neighborhood by lantern light at night and walking the storehouse-lined alleys in the early morning,

Enjoying the hospitality of the family-run inn and soaking in the the slightly salty waters of the onsen baths,

Hearing stories and seeing the pride of people who participate in the once every 7 years Onbashira festival, participation so death-defyingly passionate,

I feel I attained a deeper appreciation for Shimo-Suwa. But still, more remains. A 1-day watchmaking workshop, going to the public bath in the tunnel, drinking the steamy dragon water at the Akimiya shrine, and so much more.

That means I have to come back and stay again at Shimo-Suwa. Where the gods stay.

信州の冬の楽しみの一つはアイススケートです。いろんなスケート場があるけど、このお正月に我が家族で長野市のM-Waveに行ってみました。

さすが元オリンピック施設ですのでM-Waveの楽しい所はスケート選手が随時に練習している。

普段はなかなかない見れない姿：　直ぐ側にスピードスケートの選手がすーっと滑って　楽に見えるけど実はすごい力。

転ばないようにしているだけで精いっぱい私には同じ人間だと不思議でしょうがない。

この冬はスケート選手も見れる所でアイススケートをやりたいなら、ぜひM-Waveへ行ってみてください。

亀清旅館から車で約40分。

Ice Skating is one of the joys of winter here in Nagano. Our family during this New Years holiday period went skating at Nagano City's M-Wave, home of the '98 Winter Olympic speed skating.

True to its Olympic venue origins, there are always speed skating athletes training during regular skating hours. As recreational skaters make there way around the oval, the athletes go whizzing by in their 'speed' lane. It's very exciting, especially when a line of 10 or so skaters go by in a sort of speed train.

This winter, if you want to try ice skating here in Nagano, M-Wave is a great place to watch speed skating athetes as you have enjoy a bit of skating yourself.

M-Wave is approx. 40 minutes by car from Kamesei Ryokan and our onsen town Togura-Kamiyamada. Or you take the train from Togura Station to Nagano Station and catch a bus to M-Wave.

M-Wave

北信の初詣スポットは善光寺さんが一番人気があるかもしれません。2日に子供を連れて、電車で行ってみました。雪が降っていたにかかわらず、お参りの方が多くて、うちには着物の姿も見ました。

電車で行ったので、長野駅前のデパート「MIDORI」で開催された木島平村の女子学生太鼓「鬼島太鼓」を見れました。

正直って、私は色んな太鼓を見る経験がある。
無料でシアトルのアマチュアグループから有料（かなり良い料金）で佐渡島からの世界プロレベルの鼓童まで。

今回の鬼島太鼓が今まで見た太鼓の中で一番感激。

鬼島太鼓のメンバーは女子だけで、学生だけ。高校を卒業したら引退。全国的なコンテストにも参加し、年一度は海外で演奏するらしい。

今回の演奏、MIDORIの前で、女子小学生5人で行われました。
雪の中でした。
歌は次から次へ、休まないで、凄い気合いで。
寝って打つ、飛んで打つ、踊って打つ、騒いで打つ。
男のテストステロンではなくて、小学生の女の子の生の力。
雪の中やで！

内の4歳の美咲ちゃんも感動して、興奮して、亀清に戻ってロビーにある太鼓をずっと打ちっぱなし。

木島平は悪い意味全くなくて、田舎です。田舎で女の子の「元気」を生かせるルートはあまりないかもしれない。その田舎から地元の女子に太鼓を通じて、世界を目指すと言うのは、感激。偉い！そのメンバーは大人になって、絶対に成功すると思う。

鬼島太鼓の今年の「春一コンサート」は何と戸倉上山田温泉の隣の坂城町で開催される。3月24日（土）2時から。

Here in northern Nagano, the most popular temple / shrine to visit for New Years is the esteemed Zenkoji Temple in Nagano City. On the 2nd, I took our kids to pay our respects. Despite the snowy conditions, there was a healthy throng of visitors to the temple, including a few brave ladies wearing kimonos.

We took the train to Nagano City and were treated to a taiko performance that was being held in front of the MIDORI department store next to Nagano Station.

To be honest, I've seen my fair share of taiko performances over the years. Everything from amateur groups for free in Seattle, to the world-class Kodo pro group from Sado Island (certainly not for free). But never before have I been so overwhelmingly amazed as with this group that performed, Kijima Taiko from the Kijimadaira Village, northeast of Nagano City.

Kijima Taiko is made up of only girls, and only of school age. Once the member graduate highschool, they automatically 'retire' from the group. Not only do they participate in nationwide contests, but they also perform overseas once a year.

5 girls of their elementary school division performed today.
With snow falling around, they banged away on the taiko drums while laying down, while jumping, while dancing, while shouting,
from one song to the next with absolutely no rest in between,
It wasn't a testosterone-filled show of strength, it was simply raw girl-energy.
All the while with snow falling around!

It was the most amazing thing I have ever seen. Our 4 year old Misaki was so impressed, when we got back to Kamesei she excitedly played the taiko drums in our lobby for what seemed like endlessly.

Girls growing up in the countryside likely don't have much opportunity to excel and put their energy to use in such a way that it puts them on the world stage. I applaud Kijima Taiko for giving these girls this opportunity. I am sure the members take this experience with them and put it to use succeeding in their adult lives.

Every year Kijima Taiko performs a spring concert, and this year it will take place in Sakaki, next to Togura Kamiyamada Onsen. It will be on Saturday March 24th, and I am so looking forward to seeing it!

鬼島太鼓 Kijima Taiko
MIDORI

軽井沢はグリーンシーズンでにぎやかですが、我が家族の中でクリスマスの時にも行くのが好きです。買い物はもちろん、アウトレットから旧軽銀座の専門店まで、さまざまなお店もあるし、沢山のグルメのレストランもあるし、聖パウロなどの教会でお祈りも出来るし、そして暗くなるとあちらこちらに綺麗なイルミネーションがある。

家族のお出かけで良い思い出になりました。