小谷村の2つ目の温泉：

奥小谷温泉「雨飾高原露天風呂」

小谷村の中心から県道114号を雨飾り温泉へ向かって登って、秘湯の小谷温泉を超えてされに隠れている所に雨飾荘に辿り着きます。その宿の手前に村営の露天風呂があります。

ブナの森の中露天風呂。山登りと山菜狩りの人達に人気があるようです。管理人がいないので協力金箱が置いてある。

源泉は56.3℃でナトリウム・炭酸水塩化泉です。

写真は女湯と男湯の両方です。私達が行った日は誰もいなかった。それは良かったです。なぜなら、男湯は暑すぎて（45℃？）入れなかった。女湯は適温で周りの緑を楽しみながら気持ち良く入れた。

もう一つな問題はハエでした。着替えている時にあっちこっちで食われました。

私達が行った日は雨飾荘が休館だったから残念ながらその大露天風呂の体験は出来なかった。更に奥に栃の木亭があるのでいつかはそのお風呂も入ってみたいと思う。

温泉は多いけど、時間が限られている。それは長野だね。

Our 2nd Otari Village onsen stop was Amekazari Kogen (Heights) Rotenburo (Open-air Bath).

Located near the end of Prefectural Road 114 as it climbs up from the main part of the village towards Amekazari Mountain, past the 'hidden' Otari Onsen, Amekazari-sou is a single onsen hotel deep in the mountains. Just down from the hotel is a village-operated onsen with 2 outdoor baths surrounded by a forest of beech trees. One bath is for men and one for ladies. The baths are not staffed, but there is a collection box for donations.

The onsen water is chloride hydrogen carbonate high in sodium. It comes out of the ground at 56.3 degrees celsius.

No one else was there when we went which was fortunate as the men's bath was too hot for me (45C?). The ladies bath was a bit more enjoyable temperature so I soaked away in peace as the beech trees swayed overhead.

One other problem was in between undressing and getting in the bath, we got eaten by flies. Not a pleasant sensation!

The day we went, Amekazari-sou was closed so we weren't able to experience their large outdoor bath. Further down the road is another onsen inn called Tochinoki-tei. Their bath will have to wait for another day, too.

So many onsens, so little time! That's Nagano for you.

雨飾荘 Amekazari-sou

友人のＰｅｔｅｒさんの「長野温泉トップ100」英字本の研究の手伝いで、小谷村へお出かけしました。秘湯が好きな私には大喜び。小谷村は長野県の最も西北の位置で村実体が「秘密」って書いてあるって感じ。まず、紹介したいのは：

湯原温泉「猫鼻の湯」

1軒の日帰り温泉で公式ＨＰもないし、パンフもない、看板もほとんどない。本当に「隠れ」。だからこそ（かな？）、温泉ブロガーの世界では大人気。

場所は国道148号を糸魚川へ向かって下って、新潟県に入る前に塩坂と湯原トンネルの間に姫側へ右折して、千国街道（別名「塩の道」）の猫鼻石仏群の側。歩きなら塩道でＪＲ糸魚川線の平岩と北小谷駅の間。

お湯はナトリウム・マグネシウム・カルシウム入りの炭酸水素塩・塩化物泉。鉄も気持ち入っていたように感じた。
源泉は浴場の直ぐ側ですから源泉から離れているお風呂が嫌な人に嬉しいかもしれない。お湯の量は半端じゃないので熱めですが、お水を自由に足せる露天風呂から姫川の眺めが素晴らしい。

施設はどちらかと言うと「仮説」っぽい。しかし、建物より湯質、眺めそして「隠れ」で良い勝負になる。

猫鼻の湯
北安曇郡小谷村北小谷道筋3634-2
℡ c/o　清水衣料　(0261)72-3545 or 090-2666-7455
大人400円、子供200円　10:00-19:00 変動有り
冬は雪の為に休業。

In helping my buddy Peter research for his upcoming "Nagano Onsens Top 100" book, we took an onsen-hopping trip to Otari Village. Tucked away in Nagano Prefectures most northwestern corner, this trip really appealed to my appreciation of secluded onsens.

First stop: Yuhara Onsen "Nekohana no Yu"

This day-use bathhouse has no website, no brochures, and hardly any signage. Maybe that's precisely why it is so popular with the onsen blogging community.

Located by the 'Nekohana' cluster of buddhist statues on the Chikuni Kaido (aka Japan's Salt Road), to get to there you drive down Rt. 148 towards Itoigawa and the Sea of Japan. Once you pass the center of the village and before you cross over into Niigata Prefecture, in between the Shiosaka and Yuhara tunnels you turn right down towards the Hime River. There on a ledge above the river you will find the bathhouse. If coming on foot (as in hiking the Salt Road), Nekohana is in between the Hiraiwa and Kitaotari stations on the JR Itoigawa line.

Nekohana's mineral water is a sodium hydrogen carbonate and chloride onsen high in sodium, magnesium and calcium content. I detected a bit of an iron taste as well. The massive flow of onsen water can be cooled down by adding tapwater as you please. Nekohana's onsen well is adjacent to the baths so onsen purists who like their baths as close as possible to the source should be pleased.

The 'rotenburo' outdoor bath overlooks the Hime River. The building itself has a 'temporary shack'-feel. But Nekohana's focus is on the onsen water, the view and the hidden location -- not on facilities.

Nekohana
3634-2 Michisuji, Kita-Otari, Otari Village
Tel c/o Shimizu Clothes (0261)72-3545 or 090-2666-7455.
Adults 400 yen, Children 200 yen. Hours 10am-7pm.
Closed in winter due to snow.

戸倉上山田温泉の隣の坂城町にびんぐし湯さん館と言う日帰り温泉施設がある。坂城ばら祭りのついでに、久しぶりに行きました。

びんぐしは亀清旅館・戸倉上山田温泉から約6㎞、車で15分（私達が自転車で行って、ゆっくり走りながら30分ぐらいかかった）でちょっとした高台にある。下は公園（長～い滑り台）とレストラン（当地の名物のおしぼりうどんがお勧め）がある。上は日帰り温泉と温泉水プールの湯さん館。高台ですから、お風呂に浴びながら千曲川の谷が眺めれる。

内風呂は二つと外は樽風呂を込めて5つのお風呂がある。私が一番好きなのは外の根湯です。あの景色を楽しみながら寝たままで温泉に入って、贅沢です。夜は坂城町の光がきっと綺麗。

温泉の成分は単純硫黄泉ですが、内湯1か所と外の樽風呂だけがかけ流し。後の風呂の全部は循環の為に結局温泉の感覚があまりない。

戸倉上山田温泉の周辺の野天風呂のある立ち寄り温泉をお探しであれば、びんぐし湯さん館は便利で良い。

A short 15 minute drive from our onsen town Togura-Kamiyamada is Bingushi Yusankan day-use onsen facility in neighboring Sakaki Town. We rode our bikes their after visiting Sakaki's Rose Festival the other day.

Bingushi is perched on a hill overlooking the Chikuma River Valley, and its baths take advantage of the panorama. The baths are separated men and women, and both sides have 2 indoor baths and 5 outdoor ones, including ones made out of 'taru' barrels. My favorite is the 'ne-yu', one you lay down in to soak. Laying back with the onsen water caressing your body as you enjoy the view of the river valley is quite an extravagance.

As for the onsen water, only certain baths are kake-nagashi (pure onsen). Most are circulated and inject chlorine, so you can't enjoy the sulfur content in them as much.

In addition to the onsen baths, Yusankan also has an onsen water pool. And below is a fun park for kids (with a looooong slide) and a small cafe that features the local specialty, spicy oshibori-udon.

If you are looking for another onsen bath to try in the vicinity of Togura-Kamiyamada Onsen, especially one with a fantastic view, then Bingushi Yusankan is nice and convenient.

びんぐし湯さん館 Bingushi Yusankan

松代荘に会議の為に行ったがせっかくだったからお風呂にも入らせて頂きました。松代は鉄分の強い温泉。白い手ぬぐいを入れたら、オレンジになると言う。今回は実際にやってみたので、その通りでした。

本格的なお湯。私が大好き。長野県の温泉はミルキー（濁り）の湯や緑色、硫黄泉、沢山ある。その中で、松代の鉄分のお湯が宝物の一つ。

松代温泉は主にこの松代荘と加賀井温泉「一陽館」の二つです。両方共は本格的な鉄分のお湯。松代荘は市営の温泉施設で設備が綺麗に揃っています。一陽館は比較的にしおっぽいです。混浴の露天風呂もあります。それぞれの良さがあると言うか、両方入った方がお勧め。

During a recent meeting at Matsushiro-sou, I made the best of the opportunity and had a soak in their onsen bath. Matsushiro Onsen is famous for its orange-colored water that comes from a high iron mineral content. You dip your white towel in it and it comes out orange. (I actually tried it, and it's true!)

There are 2 main bath facilities in Matsushiro Onsen. Matsushiro-sou is run by the city, and has impeccable changing room and shower facilities. Ichiyou-Kan (technically in Kagai Onsen but the two are literally a couple hundred meters apart) is relatively, well, rustic. One of its features is a mixed-gender outdoor bath.

Nagano is fortunate to have so many great types of onsens -- milky water, green water, sulfur springs, and so many more. Matsushiro's rusty onsen rates right up there with the best.

松代荘　Matsushiro-sou

一陽館　Ichiyou-Kan
非公式Unofficial site

１９９８年の長野冬五輪のメダル発表式が行われた場所「セントラルスクゥエア―」が改造されました。当時の金・銀・銅の台がずっと残されたけど、年数が経ち、大分寂びてきた。場所は未知（善光寺の参道）のそばに移されて、こんな素敵なモニュメントが出来ました。

観光客が聖火をバックにして、金・銀・銅の台で記念写真を撮れるようになりました。

この夏はロンドン五輪、２０１８年は近くの韓国に冬五輪が来るし、長野市はまたオリンピックフィーバーになってきました！

The awards ceremonies for the 1998 Nagano Winter Olympics took place at Central Square, located in between Nagano Station and the venerable Zenkoji Temple. The medal stands had been left in place after the Olympics but had gotten a bit run down over the years. Central Square has been renovated recently -- a new medal stand and Olympic Torch replica have been built closer to the main road.

Now visitors can stand on the medal podiums and have their picture taken with the torch in the background.

With the London Olympics taking place this summer, and nearby South Korea scheduled to host the Winter Olympics in 2018, Nagano is once again getting Olympic fever!

家族のドライブの帰りであぐりの湯こもろに寄りました。１９９８に出来たので割と新しい温泉。千曲川と遠くの浅間山の眺めが素晴らしい！地元の農家の直販売もあって、小諸市民と農家の交流場にもなっている。

私は温泉評論家ではないけど、勝手に評価します:

アクセス:　この時代は皆の車のナビが付いているからどうにか辿り着くでしょうけど、道は分かり易い訳ではない。バスは色々調べたが、無さそう。

設備：　建物がまだまだ新しい感じする。広くて、綺麗。「湯上り室」まである。（初めて見た！）

お風呂：　３つの内風呂、２つの打たせの湯、露天風呂。とにかく、長めが最高。浅間山と千曲川の谷、ほっとする景色。
ただ、露天風呂は屋根付き（星の光を浴びれない）事と、露天風呂の庭の周りは私が嫌いなプラスチック竹でした。

お湯：　HPに説明はないぐらいに自慢じゃない。源泉が３７℃という事は沸かしでしょう。かけ流しじゃなくて循環っぽい。

総合：　もう少し時間を下さい。近辺に沢山の温泉がある（布引温泉、望月の湯など）。そういうのに入ってから判断したいと思います。まあ、疲れが取れたと言えば取れましたから、それなりの効果は確かにあります。

On the way back from our family drive, we stopped at Agri no Yu Komoro. This onsen bathhouse was built in 1998, so it is relatively new. It features an amazing view of the Chikuma River valley and Mt. Asama in the distance. There is a farmers market on the premises, so cityfolk can mingle with the farmers.

I'm not an onsen critic, but here is my critique anyways:

Access: Nowadays, everyone has a navigation system in their cars, so just punch in the telephone number and you'll get there. Otherwise, the road is certainly out of the way, and a thorough search didn't come up with any public transportation options.

Facilities: The building still has a newly-built feel to it. Spacious and clean. And there is even a separate cooling-down room adjacent to the baths -- the first time I've ever seen one of those!

Baths: 3 indoor baths, 2 waterfall baths, and an outdoor bath with a killer view. So great variety. However, the outdoor bath had a roof over it (can't soak in the starlight that way) and its garden had way too much plastic bamboo for my tastes.

Onsen: Not even their website talks about the mineral water, so the quality of the onsen water is not the main draw here. It looks to be heated and recirculated.

Overall: Give me a bit more time. I want to check out the nearby onsens (Nunobiki, Mochizuki, etc.) before passing judement on Agri. However, I can say that the bathing experience there overall was very refreshing.

あぐりの湯こもろ Agri no Yu Komoro

標高１４００mの白樺湖の北側に白樺リゾートファミリーランドという遊園地がある。東京で知られているかどうか分かりませんが、長野県内で良く宣伝されているので割と有名。

先日は子供達の学校が休みで、家族で行ってみました。私の何ちゃった評論リポート：

アクセス　大門街道を通ったけど、のんびりした１時間４５分ドライブで田舎の景色を楽しみながら、良かった。

場所　湖と蓼科や周辺の山々は気持ちいい景色。空気は高台らしい気持ちいい。湖辺の散歩がお勧め！

遊園地　所々にペンキを塗ってあげたいけど、子供達はアドベンチャーカートやコースター、トランポリンなど、大喜び。

コーストパフォーマンス　家族５人で一万円でした。まあ、映画２本分ぐらいので、比較したらそれ以上な楽しみだったでしょう。

お客様にお勧め？　これは悩みます。私達が行ったのは平日だった。週末や連休なら割高くなるし、きっと混むでしょう。その代り、夏休みとかでもっと湖の遊びも出来るそうです。
遊園地が目的だったら、白樺のほど寂びていないのはあちらこちらにある。自然も楽しみたいなら、湖と周辺の山々の遊びがあるから良いと思います。

オプション　近辺の「世界の影絵・きり絵・ガラス・オルゴール美術館」がお勧めです。藤城清治さんの作品が素晴らしい！

On the north bank of 1400m altitude Shirakaba Lake is a small amusement park called Shirakaba Family Resort. I don't know how well-known it is in Tokyo, but here in Nagano we see their commercials all the time.

One recent weekday, our kids had a day off from school so we went for a drive to check out the park for ourselves. Here is my attempt at a review:

Access Leisurely 1 hour 45 minute drive through the Nagano countryside following the old Daimon Kaido trail from our onsen town Togura-Kamiyamada.

Amusement I kept wanting to get out a brush and help paint over some of the peeling spots, but the kids enjoyed the go-karts, coaster, trampoline and more.

Setting Picturesque Shirakaba Lake surrounded by Tateshina Mountain and other tall peaks, in fresh mountain air. Fantastic. I highly suggest taking a stroll on the boardwalk on the lake's west bank.

Cost Performance For our family of five, it cost 10,000 yen. Considering that's about what 2 movies would have cost, I'd say we got more enjoyment from the park.

Recommendable? That's a tricky question. There are plenty of amusement parks around with more attention to detail (i.e., less rust). But you can't beat the lake and mountain setting.

Optional side tour Don't miss the art museum featuring the work of light and shadow artist Seiji Fujishiro.

白樺リゾートファミリーランド Shirakaba Resort Family Land

千曲万博が２７日に戸倉創造館で行われました。千曲市と県内に住んでいる外国人が自分の国の文化を紹介する為に集まって、地元の子供達や市民が触れ合える場面となった。タイやアフガニスタンのお料理の試食や、国連旗クイズなど、沢山楽しめた。
うちの子供達がこの夏のロンドン五輪を楽しみにしているのでイギリス人とお話が出来て、喜んだ。
千曲万博は年々に大きくなっているので、来年はまた宜しくお願い石ます！

The Chikuma Expo took place on the 27th. People from over 15 countries living here in Chikuma City and Nagano Prefecture gathered to share their home country's culture, especially with the local school kids.
Besides sampling cuisine from Thailand and Afganistan, we juggled with Uncle Sam, made magnets of Australian animals, and played the United Nations flag quiz.
Our kids are looking forward to the London Olympics this summer, and really enjoyed the UK booth.
The Chikuma Expo gets bigger every year. We are looking forward to next year!

長野温泉トップ100の本の作成の手伝いで作家のPeterさんと信州高山村の松川渓谷温泉郷に行ってみました。前回は山田温泉の話でした。今回はその奥（距離は更に8.3km、標高は更に600m）の奥山田温泉。

奥山田温泉は標高1500mの高台にある。宿泊施設十数件で、お湯は濁り系で強い硫黄泉です。山田温泉から車で約15分です。（車の無い方は山田温泉までバスで、後はタクシーになってしまいます。しかし、山田温泉に普段はタクシーがないために事前に手配する必要がある。自転車で登る方もいらっしゃるようですが、初心者には無理でしょう。）

山田温泉は松川渓谷の谷間の景色ですが、そこからくねくねの道で上って上って、やっと奥山田高台にたどり着きます。冬はスキー場（グレンデの2割ぐらいしかグルーミングされていない;自然な雪で滑りたい方に喜ばれているようです）；夏は牧場。西は長野市への眺め、北東に笠ヶ岳（超えたら志賀高原）、南北は万座山（トレッキングの二日間一泊の最適なループコース）。

恐らく一番有名な宿は満山荘。日本秘湯を守る会のメンバー。奥山田温泉全体は「秘湯」な雰囲気：あまり知られていないし、場所は山奥のとんでもない所。その中の１軒はこの芸術的な手作り感のある満山荘。露天風呂から遠くの長野市盆地まで見れる。

そして、恐らく一番ユニークなお風呂はレッドウッド・インです。樹齢１６５０年の直径3.2mのあるレッドウッドの丸太がくり抜いた部分が浴槽となっている。噂は前から聞いていたけど、自分の目で見れて、感動しました。男湯から笠ヶ岳も見れて、良い雰囲気。

And the Nagano Onsen Top 100 project goes on. I am helping my buddy Peter write a book about Nagano Onsens, and we took another trip, first to Yamada Onsen (see the previous entry) and then to Oku-Yamada Onsen.

"Oku" means "further back". I had thought Yamada Onsen, situated like it is in the midst of the Matsukawa Gorge, was about as deep into the mountains as you could go. Little did I know that deeper and up into the mountains is this flat spot at 1500m altitude, that to the west, overlooks Nagano City and the Zenkoji Plain in the distance, and to the east, is towered over by Mt. Kasa-ga-dake and Mt. Manza.

In the winter, this spot becomes the Yamaboko ski area (with 70% of the runs left un-groomed for a wild, natural snow experience). And in the summer, it becomes Yamada Bokujo Ranch, with cows wandering around grazing. It's a destination for bicyclists who like lots of altitude gain, and a starting point for trekkers (apparently the 'Oku-Yamada - over Kasa-ga-dake to Shiga Kogen, cross over to Manza Onsen, then over Mt. Manza and back down to Oku-Yamada' course is the perfect 2-day loop trek.)

Oku-Yamada is 8.3km past and up from Yamada Onsen, about 15 minutes by car. If you came by bus to Yamada Onsen, the best way is to pre-arrange for a taxi to meet you there to take you the rest of the way to Oku-Yamada.

The onsen water here is of the milky-variety with a strong sulfur content. It definitely makes for a memorable onsen experience.

Perhaps the best known inn here is Manzansou. Although Manzansou itself is a member of the Japan Association of Secluded Hot Spring Inns, if you ask me, all of Oku-Yamada could qualify. Not many people know of Oku-Yamada, and its location deep and up into the mountains is certainly secluded. Anyways, Manzansou has artistic, hand-made touches throughout, giving it a special, one-of-a-kind feel. And the outdoor baths, with their views of Nagano City below in the distance, are unforgettable.

The inn with the most novel onsen bath is the Redwood Inn. Their outdoor baths are made out of hallowed-out slices cut from a 1650-year old real redwood tree. I had heard rumors of the redwood baths but it was impressive to see them in person. And the mens bath was particularly nice with the view of Mt. Kasa-ga-dake looming the background

満山荘 Manzansou
レッドウッド・イン Redwood Inn

友人Peterさんの「長野県Top100温泉」の英語の本の作成に手伝っています。今回は山田温泉。

信州高山村の松川渓谷沿いの旅館6軒がある小さな温泉。上信越道の須坂長野東ICから約40分、長野電鉄須坂駅からバスで約35分。温泉の手前の赤い橋が写真ポイント。その辺から渓谷らしくなって、どの季節でも綺麗ですけど秋は紅葉で特に有名。温泉「街」は大湯という観光客が日帰りで使えるお風呂の中心で、お土産屋さん数件とスパ・ワインセンターがある。温泉のお湯は透明でナトリウム塩化物泉で少し塩っぽい。体が良く温まるそうです。

藤井荘が割と代表的な宿です。藤沢社長に案内して頂きました。ロビーからの警告の景色が格別でした。自慢の露天風呂もその景色をたっぷり楽しめるようにできている。

次は社長が特別で道の向こう側の滝の湯を見せてくれました。普通は住んでいる方化旅館のお客さんしか入れない木造な温泉銭湯です。源泉が60℃ぐらいで湯船は水をかけても暑い！地元のおじさんが気持ち良さそう～に入っていました。

山田温泉のもう一つな有名な宿が風景館です。松川渓谷の一番狭い所で川がすごい勢いで流れている沿い「仙人風呂」。怖い階段150段ぐらい下って、とんでもない所で設置している。ワイルドで素晴らしい温泉です。長野県にこんなに刺激的な温泉があるって知らなかった！

In my efforts to help my buddy Peter write his book "Nagano's Top 100 Onsens", this time we went to Yamada Onsen.

Located in Shinshu Takayama Village's upper reaches of the Matsukawa Ravine, Yamada Onsen is a small onsen resort with 6 inns grouped around O-Yu, the main bath house. Access is via car (35 min. from Suzaka IC on the Joshin'etsu Expressway) or bus (40 min. from Suzaka Station on the Nagano Dentetsu Line). Along the way, you pass a red arched bridge which, with the stunning backdrop of the forested ravine side makes for some picturesque scenery. Welcome to the Matsukawa Ravine. Known especially for the colors of the leaves in autumn, the area is beautiful any time of year.

One of the better known inns in Yamada Onsen is Fujiiso. The owner, Fujisawa-san, showed us around. Their elegantly appointed lobby features a series of picture windows giving you a panaromic view of the trees in the ravine. Their onsen bath also takes advantage of the scenic setting where you can soak in the onsen water (clear water high in sodium chloride with a slightly salty taste) as you enjoy the serenity of the trees. The minerals in the onsen water, by the way, supposedly work to soothingly warm your body.

Next Fujisawa-san took us across the street to Taki-no-yu. Normally this classic wooden bathhouse is only open to residents and guests of the inns, but Fujisawa-san let us in as a special favor. The onsen water originates at 60C, so even with regular tap water being added to the bath it was painfully hot. But one local elderly man was soaking away as blissfully as can be.

Yamada Onsen's other famous inn is Fukeikan. Their claim to fame is the Sennin-buro (hermit's bath). Perched on a cliff 150 scary steps down from the inn, the bath precariously looks over the roaring Matsukawa River as it is squeezed through its most narrow point along the ravine. I had no idea Nagano had such a wild onsen bath!

藤井荘　Fujiiso
風景館　Fukeikan