杉並び木ハイキング@小菅神社、飯山市 Hiking Through the Cedars to Kosuge Shrine in Iiyama City

2011.10.11: 長野に来る理由 Reasons to Come to Nagano

The Cedar-lined Hike to Kosuge Inner Shrine

杉並び木を通って、奥社へのハイキング。

戸隠?

いいえ、飯山市の小菅神社。

以前にも書いたが、昔は小菅神社が戸隠と同じぐらいに修行として盛り上がったそうです。
今は戸隠との奥社・杉並び木がパワースポットブームで駐車場が溢れている状態。

小菅神社との杉並び木は比較的に知られていない。私達家族で3連休でハイキングしたが、もう2組としか通り違わなかった。

小菅の杉並び木は戸隠の程でかくないけどそれなりに感動的です。道は1.1kmで行きはほとんど上り坂。いい運動になります。それでも、4歳の美咲ちゃんペースで約1時間。途中で休憩の東屋や、「上杉謙信がこの岩で隠れたよ」など色んな歴史的な・不思議・神秘的なスポット、滝、千曲川の眺め展望台などがある。奥社の建物実態は半分山の中に入り込んで、半分柱の上で作られた立派な建物。

小菅奥社は戸隠と比較したら、すぎのパワーは少ないかもしれないけど他の面で魅力はあるし、駐車場が溢れていない。そして距離は短い(1.1km vs. 2km)だが、標高差は小菅の勝ち(登り口が540m、奥社が880m=標高差340m;戸隠は登り口が1200m、奥社が1380m=標高差180m)。汗はかけますよ!大半は石畳(?)なので、雨なくて滑りやすい。

飯山の旅(観光、食、温泉)の際、お勧めのエクスカージョン: 小菅神社のハイキング。

Iiyama City's Kosuge Shrine was historically the site of 'shugyou' ascetic training on par with Togakushi, Nagano's better known 'shugyou' spot. As with Togakushi, there is an 'okusha', or Inner Shrine. And, as with Togakushi, the path to the Inner Shrine is lined with ancient cedar trees.

However, while Togakushi's Inner Shrine is the subject of a 'power spot' boom in publicity complete with overflowing parking lots, Kosuge is shrouded in obscurity. So while Kosuge's cedar trees aren't quite as huge and awe-inspiring as Togakushi's, the hike has enough of its own quirks to make it as much if not more rewarding than it's more famous partner's.

And you won't be battling any crowds at Kosuge. Our family went to hike up to Kosuge Okusha on a 3-day holiday weekend, and only came across 2 other parties during the entire outing.

The path itself is for the most part a staircase of stepping stones lined by the aforementioned cedars. Along the way, there's an idyllic arbor for resting, historical spots ('Famed samurai Uesugi Kenshin hid behind this rock') as well as spiritual ones, trailside waterfalls, birdseye views of the Chikuma River winding its way down the valley below, and so much more. The Inner Shrine itself is a fascinating structure built halfway into the hill and half on pillars supporting it as it juts out over the hillside.

Kosuge may not provide as much 'power' as Togakushi, but is charming in its own way. At 1.1 km long, the trail is a bit over half as long as Togakushi's but is quite a bit steeper (340m elevation gain compared with 180m for Togakushi). At our little 4 year old Misaki's pace, it took 1 hour to hike. The stepping stones were pretty slippery -- I wouldn't want to do the hike in rain or snow. And public transportation to the trailhead is non-existent -- car would be a lot easier.

So if you take a trip to Iiyama City, while enjoying the sights, food and onsen, I highly suggest an excursion to Kosuge!



Trailhead


The stone path


Holy spot along the way


Mysterious rune


trailside waterfall


The Inner Shrine


Another view


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