これはジャパンだ!This is Cool Japan!

2011.03.09: 長野に来る理由 Reasons to Come to Nagano

志賀高原での会議後、渋湯田中温泉の「よろづや」と言う長野(日本?)を代表できる旅館に泊まりした。朝の露天風呂の様子です。

この湯気と言え、行燈と言え、贅沢な広さの露天風呂…これはジャパンだ!

After the recent ryokan junior association meeting at Shiga Kogen, we all spent the night in Shibu Yudanaka Onsen at Yorozuya, one of Nagano's (Japan's?) best ryokans.

This is a picture of the open air bath outside of Yorozuya's nationally renowned Momoyama bath. With the steam raising up and the andon lanterns -- this is Cool Japan!

よろづやのHPはこちら。Click here for Yorozuya's website.







志賀高原の自然保護センター + オリンピック記念館 Shiga Heights Nature Preservation Center + Olympics Memorial Hall

2011.03.08: 長野に来る理由 Reasons to Come to Nagano

Shiga Kogen Nature Center

「信州」と言えば、「自然」。

「自然」と言えば、志賀高原!

志賀高原は冬のスキーにしても、夏のハイキングにしても、その大自然を感動しながら楽しめます。長野県の中でも、立派の山と深い森、そして地獄谷のスノーモンキーを始め沢山の動物、鳥、獣が沢山います。

志賀高原の自然との触れあい方を詳しく説明するのは:
長野県・志賀高原自然保護センター志賀高原の蓮池地区にある98センターの中です。山と人の歴史、木の種類、動物情報はもちろん、ハイキングコースの紹介もある。志賀高原の自然を楽しみ始まる時に、寄ってみる価値があると思います。

同じ建物中にオリンピック記念館もあります。1998年の冬オリンピックのAlpineイベントが志賀高原で行われました。そのころからの聖火、ピンバッジなどのアイテムが沢山展示してあります。そのころからの五輪の迫力を再度感じれます。

昨日は長野県旅館青年部の理事会で行ってきましたので初めて両館を見ました。興味のある方は是非!

(ちなみに、その時に初めて雪専用の車に乗ったのでおまけにその写真も)

詳しくはHP

People come to Nagano from far and wide to enjoy its natural beauty. And within Nagano, it doesn't get much better than Shiga Kogen. With its majestic mountains and deep forests, not to mention the famous snow monkeys and other wildlife, Shiga Kogen's wilderness is sure to delight your senses and instill a sense of awe.

Whether it is skiing in the winter, or hiking in the 'green season', Shiga Kogen is full of ways to get out and enjoy nature. In fact, the highlands are so extensive, it is hard to know where to start. Luckily, inside the 98 Center at Hatsuike Pond there is the Nagano Prefecture Shiga Kogen Nature Conservation Center. Its displays show the various types of flora and fauna that can be found in Shiga, as well as descriptions of human interaction with the mountains over the years. A three dimensional map gives you an overhead view of the area and an idea of where the various areas are in relation to each other. The center also contains a wealth of information on hiking trails and how best to enjoy the mountains.

In the same building as the Nature Center is the Olympic Memorial Hall. Shiga Kogen was the host of several alpine events during the 1998 Winter Olympics. Memorabilia from the events is on display in the hall. Here you can relive the excitement of the Nagano Games.

Yesterday I attended a Nagano Ryokan Junior Association meeting at Shiga Kogen and got to see the Nature Center and Olympics Hall for the first time. I also got to ride a special snow taxi -- just one of the many ways to enjoy Shiga Kogen.



Olympic Hall


The funky snow taxi


ハッピーひな祭り + 北信雛人形情報 Happy Girls Day + Northern Nagano Hina Doll Info

2011.03.03: 長野に来る理由 Reasons to Come to Nagano

Misaki with Kamesei's Hina Dolls

女の子の皆様、ハッピーひな祭り!我が家族の姫様、美咲ちゃんと今日、お祝いしました。亀清旅館のロビーに飾ってある雛人形と一緒にポーズ!

この機会で、周辺のひな人形情報を提供したいと思います。

ぶらり北信濃ひな巡り
長野電鉄の屋代から湯田中までの中心した雛人形巡り。スタンプラリーの開催の上に、人形作家高橋真由美の新作人形リレー店が行います。会場及び真由美さんの人形店の予定は下記です:

1.松城町
3月3日ー3月9日 松代まち歩きセンター
松代焼のオリジナルひな人形も

2.須坂市
3月10日ー3月16日 蔵の町観光交流センター
田中本家博物館のひな祭りは2月18日ー4月4日まで

3.山ノ内町
3月17日ー3月21日 楓の館

4.千曲市
3月22日ー3月25日 屋代駅ウェルカムステーション
はにわねんどと言う地元の粘土で出来た創作ひな人形
開催中は「はにわびなをつくろう」と言う体験も。詳しくはウェルカムステーションへ。Tel(026)272-3223

5.小布施町
3月26日ー3月30日 栗庵風味堂

6.中野市
3月31日ー4月3日 中野陣・県庁記念館
中野ひな市は毎年3月31日と4月1日に行います。土びなを集まっている人たちは大勢で来ます。

最後はおまけに東信のひな情報:
第6回坂城古雛まつり
2011年2月19日ー3月31日
坂木宿ふるさと歴史館 Tel(0268)82-4193

Happy Girls Day to all you young (and young at heart) ladies out there. Here is our daughter Misaki posing with the Hina Dolls displayed in Kamesei's lobby. I'd like to take this opportunity to pass on some information about a few of the area's many Hina Doll related events.

'Burari' Northern Nagano Hina Tour
This is an event involving various Hina Doll displays along the Nagano Dentetsu Railway from Yashiro Station to Yudanaka Station. Besides a 'stamp rally', the event features a travelling 'relay' display of new dolls by local popular doll artist Mayumi Takahashi. Relay dates and locations are as below:

1. Matsushiro Town
3/03-3/09 Matsushiro Machi Aruki Center
Original Hina Dolls made of local Matsushiro-yaki pottery will be featured.

2. Suzaka City
3/10-3/16 Kura-no-machi Kankou Koryu Center
To be held in conjunction with the Hina Doll Festival at Tanaka Honke Museum.

3. Yamanouchi Town
3/17-3/21 Kaede no Kan

4. Chikuma City
3/22-3/25 Yashiro Station 'Welcome Station'
Also on display will be Hina Dolls made out of 'haniwa nendo', a local clay. One day during the event, participants will be able to make their own clay dolls. Contact the Welcome Station for more info: tel(026)272-3223.

5. Obuse Town
3/26-3/30 Kurian Fumido

6. Nakano City
3/31-4/03 Nakano Jinya & Kencho Memorial Hall
Don't miss the 'Hina Ichi (Market)' festival. It takes place every year on March 31st and April 1st, and features clay dolls painted by local artists in a tradition that has been handed down over hundreds of years. People come from all over the country to add to their tsuchi-bina (clay doll) collections.

Finally, one more local Hina Doll event:
6th Annual Sakaki Kobina Festival
2011 Dates: 2/19-3/19
Features historical Hina Dolls displayed in the Sakakijuku Furusato History Hall, Tel(0268)82-4193.





信濃の国の…手ぬぐい本?! Shinano no Kuni Bandana-book

2011.02.24: 長野に来る理由 Reasons to Come to Nagano

My new favorite tenugui

日本の47都道府県はそれぞれの県歌がある中、長野県の「信濃の国」が一番親しまれたと言われています。なお、その歌が本になりました。本と言うか、手ぬぐいと言うか、

手ぬぐいの本だ!

本を開けば手ぬぐいになる。

長野県民の皆が覚えている歌詞も載っているし、信州の代表するイメージもフルカラーの絵も:県獣カモシカ、県木しらかば、県花りんどう、県鳥らいちょう、そしてお蕎麦、リンゴ、雪猿、温泉

中心に雪猿がりんご風呂に入っている絵も!

スノーモンキーがあって、ポイント高いですね!

問い合わせ先:
分かりません。多分所々で売っているでしょう。取り敢えず、この戸倉上山田温泉の衣料品屋さん「べに屋」で1500円で販売しています。Tel(026)275-1249

Japan's 47 prefectures all likely have an official Prefecture Song, but Nagano's "Shinano no Kuni" is probably most loved by its people. It's sung by every school kid and danced to at every Bon Odori festival, so practically all Nagano-ites have the lyrics memorized.

Now "Shinano no Kuni" has been made into a book. Or, is it a tenugui bandana? Actually, it's a tenugui book -- a book that opens out into a tenugui.

The 'book' has the beloved lyrics to the Shinano no Kuni song, and features representative drawings of Nagano: serow (the prefectural wild animal), birch trees (the prefectural tree), gentian (prefectural flower), ptarmigan (prefectural bird) as well as soba noodles, apples, snow monkeys (high points for that!) and onsen. One of the drawings is of snow monkeys in an apple onsen bath slurping soba. Well, minus the soba.

Where to Purchase:
I don't really know. I suppose these Nagano tenugui books will be available at various stores throughout the prefecture. One place for sure is where I bought it: Togura Kamiyamada Onsen's clothing shop 'Beniya' where it's being sold for 1,500 yen. Tel(026)275-1249



Even the cute snow monkeys!


もう40年間生きる理由 A Reason to Live Another 40 years

2011.02.15: 長野に来る理由 Reasons to Come to Nagano

Ganshoin -- home to Hokusai's Phoenix Painting and Inspiration for Issa

小布施に行った時に、せっかくだったから岩松院に行ってみました。北斎の鳳凰の絵や、一茶の俳句で知られていますから、楽しみにしていました。

北斎の絵は本当に畳に寝って見るのか?
一茶はどういう所からカエル合戦を見たのか?

色々と興味津々でした。

そして、見事に受付が方は熱心だし、ものすごく詳しかったのでとっても良かった。私が聞きたかった質問をしっかり答えてくれた上で、なお詳しい事を色々と教えてくれました。

一番驚いたのは、北斎の絵はずっと見えているけど、色は薄くならないのかと心配していましたが、北斎は絵を塗った時に、色の変更現象を計算していて、書いてから200年先で一番鮮やかになる様に作ったと、受付の方が教えてくれました。

という事は、完成してから160年がたっていますので、これから40年後にこの絵が一番良いそうです。40年後という事は私が80歳… その時に又来なっきゃ!

While at Obuse the other day, I also went to see Ganshoin Temple. It is famous for a ceiling painting by ukiyo-e master Hokusai as well as being the setting for one of Issa's most well-known haiku poems.

I had heard and read so much about the temple, so I was looking forward to seeing it in person. Do you really lie down on the tatami to look at Hokusai's painting? From where did Issa watch the frog mating that inspired his poem?

I had so many questions!

And luckily, the lady behind the counter was full of answers. Not only did she cure my curiosity, but she shared a number of fascinating facets about the temple.

The thing that amazed me the most was regarding the pigments in Hokusai's painting of a pheonix on the ceiling. I inquired if the colors were fading at all after being on display constantly for so many years. The lady told me Hokusai picked the pigments, he calculated their natural evolution over time in such a way that the painting's colors would be at their most brilliant 200 years after he finished. It's been on display for 160 years, so that means in another 40 years from now, the painting will be at its peak coloration.

I'm 40 now, so that means I have to come back to see it again when I'm 80 years old!

There are so many stories in that one painting -- hidden Mt. Fuji's, depictions of age-old leaves and branches that had grown attached to the 'ancient' phoenix, the gruesome fact as to why no spiders ever make webs on the painting (some of the pigments were made from poisons), etc. etc.

And then there was the garden, and the pond that was the home to the frog mating ritual that inspired Issa to write his famous poem:

"Yase-gaeru,
Makeru na! Issa,
Kore ni ari."

Roughly translated, it means

"Skinny Frog,
Don't give up! Issa
Is here."

He apparently had taken pity on a smaller frog that was getting muscled out of the way competing with larger frogs for mating. The poem is said to have been dedicated to Issa's son who was battling an illness. Unfortunately, the son died not long after Issa wrote the haiku.

I took a quiet moment taking in the scene of the wood decked balcony overlooking the pond, home to the frolics of the battle frogs as well as to a poignant story of human drama from long, long ago.

More on Ganshoin here.



Issa's balcony


信州の冬の楽しみ:雪景色の野天風呂 夜間瀬温泉「遠見乃湯」 How to Have Fun in Nagano in the Winter: Snowy Outdoor Baths Yomase Onsen 'Tomi no Yu'

2011.02.02: 長野に来る理由 Reasons to Come to Nagano

Imagine a view

外が雪となり、寒い冬に他の国では部屋に入り込んで炬燵のなかに潜りっぱなしするかもしれないけど、
信州では逆にその雪景色を抱いて、野天風呂へ行くと言う楽しみがあります。

先日は渋湯田中温泉の上の夜間瀬温泉「遠見乃湯」に初めて行ってみました。長野の野天風呂の代表の一つです。行った日は雪が降っていて、景色があまり見えなかったのは残念でしたが、子供達はお風呂の周りの雪に飛んだりお風呂に戻ったり、大喜びでした。私はその熱めのお湯で体がぽかぽかで、雪が顔にちらちらと降っていて、幸せでした。

遠見乃湯は内湯がないし、洗い場がシンプルですが、その分、野天風呂からの眺めがすばらしいです。天気の良い日は北アルプス及び善光寺平、北信五岳が見れます。信州の温泉巡りで夜間瀬温泉「遠見乃湯」に行けば信州の山景色x温泉を楽しめます。

亀清旅館・戸倉上山田温泉から車で約50分。HPはこちら。

On a snowy, cold winter day, people in other places in Japan may stay inside and bury themselves beneath the quilts of their kotatsu. Here in Nagano, we embrace the snowy scenery and head for the hills to soak in one of the many 'notenburo' -- onsen baths with scenic views.

Last weekend, I took our kids to Yomase Onsen's famous 'Tomi no Yu' for the first time. Located above Shibu Yudanaka Onsens at the entrance of the Kita-Shiga ski area, Tomi no Yu's bath features an amazing view of the Zenkoji Plain with Nagano City down below, along with glimpses of the 5 Northern Nagano Peaks as well as the Northern Alps in the distance.

The day we went, it was snowing so unfortunately we couldn't enjoy much of a view. But the kids loved hopping out of the bath, jumping in the snow surrounding the rim, then hopping back into the onsen. I, on the other hand, simply let the piping hot onsen waters warm my body to the core as snow flakes gently fell on my face.

The experience inspired a little haiku:

Soaking in the bath
Face looking up to heaven
Snow flakes gently fall

Tomi no Yu doesn't have an indoor bath, and the washing area is rather spartan, but the outdoor bath with its spectacular view makes up for it. If you want to enjoy one of Nagano's premier onsen baths with a view, then make sure to check out Tomi no Yu.

Located 50 minutes by car from Kamesei Ryokan / Togura Kamiyamada Onsen. Also accessible by bus from Nakano Station on the Nagano Dentetsu Line, or in the winter by busses from Nagano Station going up to the ski resort in Kita-Shiga. Website is here.




From the outside


隠れ宝物: 茂田井間の宿 Hidden Treasure: Motai Post Town

2011.01.29: 長野に来る理由 Reasons to Come to Nagano

Frozen in time?

東信の中山道巡りした時に、佐久市の「茂田井間の宿」に初めて行きました。私の知識不足かもしれませんが、今まで見た長野県の観光資料の中で、茂田井は見た事がない;たまたま佐久市に住んでいるお客さんに教えて頂いて、行ってみただけです。そして、こんなに素晴らしく宿場の雰囲気を残している町でびっくりしました。

中山道の宿場と言えば、海野宿や木曽路の奈良井宿や妻籠が代表的になりますが、どちらかというと観光地になっています。もちろん、住民や職人が住んでいたり、働いたりしているけど、お土産屋さんや喫茶店、レストランなどもある。

茂田井は意外に観光臭くないです。お土産屋さんもないし、駐車場さえなかったです。土蔵造りの街並みそのままです。そして、立派な作り酒屋は2件もあります。この町はただの歴史資料館じゃなくて、一般的な人々が住んではったり、一般的な職人が働いてはって、つまり、息している、生きている町。歴史旅館じゃないのに、皆が土蔵造りの建物を大事に大事に綺麗にしています。特に、酒倉に入ったら、よだれが出そうぐらいに味のある建物でした。

私達が寄ってみた酒屋は武重本家酒造でした。「御園竹」と「牧水」レベルです。建物は格好良いなと思ったのは私達だけじゃなくて、日本の国の政府もそうらしい。というのは、建造物30棟は国の登録有形文化財です。スタッフの態度はものすごく明るくて、積極的で、「3月21日に酒蔵解放があるので、そのイベントの時にも来てね」とか。

悪いけど、長野県の観光部がこういう素晴らしい宿場、酒倉をもっともっと宣伝しないと駄目です。私みたいな、日本歴史・中山道に興味のある皆が大喜びですよ。

During a recent exploration with son Andy, I recently went to Motai, a way-station along the old Nakasendo road. Located in Saku City, it is technically an "in-between" station, catching the overflow from Mochizuki post town on one side, and Ashida post town on the other. I was happily amazed to see such an unmarred Edo-era townscape, with beautifully maintained earthen walled storehouses and not one but two operating historical sake breweries.

Here in Nagano Prefecture, usually when you mention "Nakasendo Post Town", you get images of Unnojuku in Tomi City, and the famous ones in the Kiso Valley, Narai-juku and Tsumago. While those towns have done a fantastic job of preserving their Edo-era townscapes, they tend to be a bit touristy. For example, even though some of their old buildings are actually lived in and worked in, there are plenty of souvenir shops, tea shops, eating / drinking establishments, etc.

Motai on the other hand has none of those. We couldn't even find a parking lot, let alone a t-shirt shop. Motai is not a history display -- it is a living and breathing village. Those classical dwellings aren't polished up to look nice for tourists -- they're lived in and lovingly maintened by the people that own them. And those sake breweries -- simply amazing.

The sake brewery we visited was Takeshige Shuzo, of Misonotake and Bokusui labels. Entering their compound and looking around their facilities had me drooling. And I'm not the only one that thinks their buildings are cool -- the entire collection of 30 structures are listed on Japan's National Historical Registry. And the staff was so helpful and friendly -- "Come back on March 21st for our Open Brewery event!" they said.

All I can say is, Shame on Nagano Prefecture's Tourism Department for not promoting a place like Motai. And who am I to say? Well, for one thing, I was the one who translated the entire English travel website and their was no mention of Motai. That's a true shame, because people like me who are interested in Japan's history and the Nakasendo would go crazy over a place like this.

茂田井間の宿は車で上信越道佐久ICから下仁田浅科線で30分、電車で長野新幹線佐久平駅からバスで茂田井入口まで35分。詳しくはHPへ。Click here for details on Motai. Access by car from Saku IC on the Joshin'etsu Expwy via Shimonida Asashina Road, 30 min. Or by train from Nagano Shinkansen Sakudaira Station and bus to Motai Iriguchi stop (35 min.)

武重本家酒造のHPはこちら。Click here for Takeshige Honke Sake's website.



In front of Takeshige Brewery


The sake collection


Classic scene


Don't mind the drooling


10歳の不思議: 日本という国に、どうして梵字や象さん? A 10-year old's question: Why sanskrit and elephants in a temple in Japan?

2011.01.26: 長野に来る理由 Reasons to Come to Nagano

Young Andy and a Dead Language

10歳の長男、Andy君を連れて、東信での中山道巡りしてきました。小学生には、まずは「中山道って何?」から始まった。(何でこの変な外国人が日本の学生に日本の歴史を教えないと駄目?小学校で何を教えているか?と思いながら…)

最初に寄ったのは御代田町にある小田井宿でした。宝珠院で車を止めて、そのお寺さんから町をぶらぶらし始めました。宝珠院の入口にこのでかい石がありました。Andy君に「この文字は何?」と聞いてきました。そこから仏教の1ポイントレッソンが始まりました。(何でこのクリスト教の人が日本人に仏教の事を教えないと駄目…) 

仏教はどの国からでしょうか?
ー日本?

いいえ。韓国から1600年前ぐらいから渡ってきた。
ーじゃ、この文字は韓国語?

いいえ、韓国の前は中国から。
ーじゃ、中国語?

さあ、ヒントとして、このお寺の本堂をよく見て。
ー象さんがいる。じゃ、インド?

ピンポン!この文字は「梵字」という。

まあ、そう考えれば、何で子の御代田という日本の田舎の町にインドからの死言語の文字があるって、不思議だね。だって、現代のインドさえ分かる人が少ない;日本のお坊さんの中ででもよっぽど勉強した人じゃないとおそらく読めないでしょう。そして、お寺に日本に存在のない動物がある事こそ、不思議だね。手彫りで作った匠は本物の象を見た事ないはず。

そこから中山道巡りが始まりました。宿場の本陣や脇本陣、小田井宿の特徴の問屋とか昔の人々が京都から江戸まで歩く途中でこういうところで泊まった事、少しでも息子に興味を持たせたのかな?

小田井宿の大名行列の様子を復元する「小田井宿まつり」は毎年8月16日に行われるそうです。

I took our 10-year old son Andy for a drive to explore the remains of the old Nakasendo (the medieval path between Kyoto and Edo / Tokyo). First I had to explain what the Nakasendo was to Andy. (Why does a foreigner have to teach a Japanese kid Japanese history? What do Japanese schools teach the kids?)

Our first stop was Otai-juku, one of the old post towns located in present-day Miyota Town. We parked at Houju-in and started our exploration at that temple. At the entrance was a large rock carved with interesting script.

"What kind of writing is that?" asked Andy. Uh-oh. Time for a 1-point Buddhism lesson. (Here again, why does a Christian have to teach a Japanese kid about Buddhism...)

"Do you know what country Buddhism came from?"
"Japan?"

"Nope. It crossed over to Japan from Korea 1600 years ago."
"So this writing is Korean?"

"Nope. Buddhism came to Korea from China."
"So it's Chinese?"

"Time for a hint. Look at the facade of the temple's main building."
"Hmm, a sculpture of an elephant. So, India?"

"Right! The writing is sanskrit."

When you think about it, it is really quite remarkable to find sanskrit here in a town in the Japanese countryside. I mean, there are few scholars left even in India that speak sanskrit. And only the most educated of Buddhist monks here in Japan today would be able to read this.

And the carvings of elephants -- the animal doesn't even exist in Japan. I bet the artist who carved the elephant had never seen a real one.

Anyways, that's how our explorings of the Nakasendo started. I showed Andy the Honjin (main inn for the VIP's) and the Waki-Honjin (inn for the #2 guys). and Otai-juku's trademark warehouses where goods were transferred from one carrier to another, and tried to convey a sense of what it was like in the old days to walk along the Nakasendo. Perhaps Andy started to get an interest in Japan's history, too.

Otai-juku holds a festival every year on August 16th where they recreate an Edo-era procession. The festival is aptly called the Otai-juku Festival.

御代田町のHPはこちらClick here for the website of Miyota Town.



A Japanese Elephant?


Andy and Otai-juku


One of Otai-juku's back streets


冬の生島足島神社:朱と白 Ikushima Tarushima Shrine in the Winter: Vermillion and White

2011.01.21: 長野に来る理由 Reasons to Come to Nagano

Vermillion and White

上田市の生島足島神社の独特な朱色は冬の雪と綺麗なコントラストになります。先日は上田市へ行く用事があって、帰りは久しぶりにこの「日本のおへそ」と言われている神社に寄りました。生島と足島の二つの神の神社にもなっているようだし、日本中の全ての霊魂が入っているようだし、日本全国を守っている神もなっているようです。つまり、重要な神社です。

と言いながら、正直って、神道に詳しくない私にはその朱色はとにかく印象的です。なおかつ、雪景色との合わせで更に見事な絵になります。

生島足島神社は戸倉上山田温泉・亀清旅館から車で約30分です。もしくは、上田駅経由でしなの鉄道(戸倉駅)・上田電鉄(下之郷駅;レンタサイクル有り)コンビで行けます。
詳しくは神社のHPへ。

2月3日に生島足島神社の節分祭が行います。式は14時から;15時半から豆が飛びます。

With a fresh covering of snow, Ueda City's Ikushima Tarushima Shrine's brilliant vermillion color stands out beautifully with the contrasting white of the snow. The other day, I had an errand to run in Ueda, and on the way back I stopped to see this shrine which is noted for supposedly being the geographic center of Japan (hence its nickname: Japan's belly button).

This shrine is also noted for being the home of Ikushima, the fertility god, and Tarushima, the god of fulfillment. Furthermore, it also supposedly houses all of the souls from throughout Japan. And as if that weren't enough, its god is supposedly the guardian diety of the entire country. That makes it one noteworthy shrine.

For me, someone not very initiated in Shintoism, the thing that most stands out about this shrine is the destinctive vermillion color accenting the achitecture throughout the complex. And with a touch of contrasting white from the snow, it makes for even more of a photogenic setting.

Ikushima Tarushima Shrine is about 30 minutes from Kamesei Ryokan and our onsen town, Togura Kamiyamada, via car. It is also accessible by train, using a combination of Shinano Railway (Togura Station) changing at Ueda Station to Ueda Dentetsu. 'Shimonogo' is the closest station and has rental cycles available.

This shrine is so cool it has its own website. For info in English, you can check here.

February 3rd, Ikushima Tarushima Shrine, as well at shrines and temples throughout the country, the annual Setsubun bean throwing ceremony will take place. Ceremony starts at 2pm, been throwing at 3:30pm.





湯田中のよろづや「松籟荘」: 日本旅館の素晴らしを改めて Yorozuya's Shoraiso in Yudanaka Onsen: Rediscovering the Marvel of the Japanese Ryokan

2011.01.18: 長野に来る理由 Reasons to Come to Nagano

The Start of the Kaiseki Dinner

山ノ内町へ出張中で湯田中温泉のよろづやさんにお世話になりました。日本文化財登録された松籟荘という長野県の旅館を代表できる宿に。あまりにも豪華に贅沢で、我が亀清旅館には参考にならなかったけど、今回は勉強の為よりハードな出張のリラックスの為でした。宴会の時の小野社長のしっかりした挨拶からそれこそ長野を代表できる露天風呂と立派な内湯「桃山風呂」の雪景色、とにかく忘れらない夜でした。
そして、お料理。一品一品出してくれた会席料理で次から次へ、これは美術ですか?食べ物ですか?と。早取りの旬の味を出して、そして地元の美味しい食材をたっぷり生かして、日本の旅館は素晴らしいなと改めて思いました。

まあ、その中で亀清旅館で少しまねできるヒントも頂きましたので、我が宿こそ信州を代表できる作りでこれからも努力します。

During a business trip to Yamanouchi Town in northern Nagano, I spent the night in Yorozuya Ryokan in Yudanaka Onsen. Specifically in Yorozuya's Shoraiso, a building listed on Japan's National Historical Register. The facilities were so luxurious and extravagant that I had a hard time finding ideas I could possibly use at our humble Kamesei Ryokan. But this stay wasn't for research, it was for relaxing from a very ambitious outing.

From the way Ono-san, the owner, gracefully greeted us during our dinner to the winter scene Momoyama Bath, a building also nationally recognized, and its outdoor bath that is bigger than Kamesei's inner garden koi pond, we were thoroughly happy. And then the kaiseki dinner. What a treasure. Each individual dish, brought out one at a time, each one almost more of an artistic creation than just food. And such great use of 'haya-dori' -- ingredients anticipating the upcoming season, as well as showcasing the area's bountiful food culture. We were amazed.

Hopefully our efforts to improve Kamesei Ryokan will someday result in our inn being able to represent Nagano to some extent, too.

松籟荘のHPはこちらClick here for Shoraiso's website.