杉並び木ハイキング@小菅神社、飯山市 Hiking Through the Cedars to Kosuge Shrine in Iiyama City

2011.10.11: 長野に来る理由 Reasons to Come to Nagano

The Cedar-lined Hike to Kosuge Inner Shrine

杉並び木を通って、奥社へのハイキング。

戸隠?

いいえ、飯山市の小菅神社。

以前にも書いたが、昔は小菅神社が戸隠と同じぐらいに修行として盛り上がったそうです。
今は戸隠との奥社・杉並び木がパワースポットブームで駐車場が溢れている状態。

小菅神社との杉並び木は比較的に知られていない。私達家族で3連休でハイキングしたが、もう2組としか通り違わなかった。

小菅の杉並び木は戸隠の程でかくないけどそれなりに感動的です。道は1.1kmで行きはほとんど上り坂。いい運動になります。それでも、4歳の美咲ちゃんペースで約1時間。途中で休憩の東屋や、「上杉謙信がこの岩で隠れたよ」など色んな歴史的な・不思議・神秘的なスポット、滝、千曲川の眺め展望台などがある。奥社の建物実態は半分山の中に入り込んで、半分柱の上で作られた立派な建物。

小菅奥社は戸隠と比較したら、すぎのパワーは少ないかもしれないけど他の面で魅力はあるし、駐車場が溢れていない。そして距離は短い(1.1km vs. 2km)だが、標高差は小菅の勝ち(登り口が540m、奥社が880m=標高差340m;戸隠は登り口が1200m、奥社が1380m=標高差180m)。汗はかけますよ!大半は石畳(?)なので、雨なくて滑りやすい。

飯山の旅(観光、食、温泉)の際、お勧めのエクスカージョン: 小菅神社のハイキング。

Iiyama City's Kosuge Shrine was historically the site of 'shugyou' ascetic training on par with Togakushi, Nagano's better known 'shugyou' spot. As with Togakushi, there is an 'okusha', or Inner Shrine. And, as with Togakushi, the path to the Inner Shrine is lined with ancient cedar trees.

However, while Togakushi's Inner Shrine is the subject of a 'power spot' boom in publicity complete with overflowing parking lots, Kosuge is shrouded in obscurity. So while Kosuge's cedar trees aren't quite as huge and awe-inspiring as Togakushi's, the hike has enough of its own quirks to make it as much if not more rewarding than it's more famous partner's.

And you won't be battling any crowds at Kosuge. Our family went to hike up to Kosuge Okusha on a 3-day holiday weekend, and only came across 2 other parties during the entire outing.

The path itself is for the most part a staircase of stepping stones lined by the aforementioned cedars. Along the way, there's an idyllic arbor for resting, historical spots ('Famed samurai Uesugi Kenshin hid behind this rock') as well as spiritual ones, trailside waterfalls, birdseye views of the Chikuma River winding its way down the valley below, and so much more. The Inner Shrine itself is a fascinating structure built halfway into the hill and half on pillars supporting it as it juts out over the hillside.

Kosuge may not provide as much 'power' as Togakushi, but is charming in its own way. At 1.1 km long, the trail is a bit over half as long as Togakushi's but is quite a bit steeper (340m elevation gain compared with 180m for Togakushi). At our little 4 year old Misaki's pace, it took 1 hour to hike. The stepping stones were pretty slippery -- I wouldn't want to do the hike in rain or snow. And public transportation to the trailhead is non-existent -- car would be a lot easier.

So if you take a trip to Iiyama City, while enjoying the sights, food and onsen, I highly suggest an excursion to Kosuge!



Trailhead


The stone path


Holy spot along the way


Mysterious rune


trailside waterfall


The Inner Shrine


Another view


我が家族の飯山モデルコース Our Family's Iiyama Model Course

2011.10.10: 長野に来る理由 Reasons to Come to Nagano

Nozomi no Yu Onsen

長野県の北側の飯山市の商工会は先月に私を講演の為に呼んでくれました。その時に商工会の方が飯山市を案内してくれた。(南沢さん、有難うございました!) 今回は私がうちの家族を連れて、案内して頂いたところを今度案内しました。

飯山市の皆さんの悩みは様々の魅力的な所があるけど、どうやってつなげるかと言う問題だそうです。(まあ、魅力がない町から見れば羨ましい問題だろうけど) 
寺の町や仏壇通り、
高橋まゆみ人形館や内田和紙、
菜の花やブナ森、
富倉そばや本多うなぎ、
斑尾温泉・ペンション街や戸狩温泉・民宿街、
とにかくいいパーツは沢山ある;その点をつないで観光客が喜ばれる線(コース)はどうやって作るという問題。

私が感じたのは重要なのが1.観光、2.食事、3.温泉と言う三点セットです。

ご参考に、私どもの選んだのはこのコース:
1.観光: ハイキング@小菅神社の杉並び木
2.食事: 富倉そば「かじか亭」
3.温泉: 戸狩温泉「望みの湯」

お昼ちょっと前に着いたので、まずは上杉謙信の通った道を追いかけて、富倉高原まで登って、有名な富倉そばを食べました。そばパワーを付けてから、今度は降りて、千曲川を渡って、小菅神社奥社の登り口で車を止めました。1.1kmのハイクを楽しんで、その後は登り口の側の喫茶店でおやつを食べました。(この辺の話はまた後日の記事に)
今度は温泉!どれにするか悩みました。小菅の近辺の温泉文化北竜館(ハートの形の北竜館はカップルさん達に人気だそうです)、斑尾温泉か、戸狩温泉か…
結局、もう一回降りて、また川を渡って、戸狩温泉の「望みの湯」に行ってみました。ぬるめのお湯にゆっくり入っていて、飯山の旅の言い終わり方。

最後にお月様が出てきて、見送りしてくれました。いつか飯山旅の第2ラウンドをしたいと思っています!

富倉蕎麦情報:
富倉の新そば祭りはこの2011年に11月13日(日)に開催の予定です。詳しくはかじか亭のHPへ。

戸狩温泉「望の湯」のHPはこちら 私達が行った時に露天風呂が閉じていました(残念!)なので、要チェック。

Iiyama City on Nagano Prefecture's northern tip recently invited me to give a talk. I had the privelege of being escorted around the city for a sightseeing tour. Iiyama's big challenge is how to connect the dots (temple district, doll museum, beech tree forests, soba noodles, Madarao & Togari onsen ski resorts, etc.) into a workable course for visitors.

My suggestion was to make it a 3-part course:
1. Sightseeing
2. Food
3. Onsen bath

I just took our family for a drive to Iiyama, and for consideration, here is the course we took:

1. Sightseeing: hiking at Kosuge Shrine
2. Food: soba noodles at Kajika-tei (in Tomikura)
3. Onsen: Nozomi no Yu in Togari.

We arrived right before noon, so we drove up to Tomikura highlands tracing the route samurai warlord Uesugi Kenshin used to travel. After powering up on a hearty lunch of the unique Tomikura soba noodles, we headed back down, crossed the Chikuma River, and went up to the trailhead for Kosuge Shrine's inner shrine. The 1.1 km trail is lined by impressive cedar trees, and after the hike we were delighted to find a quaint teahouse next to the entrance -- perfect for an afternoon snack. (More about that leg of the trip in a later entry.) Finally we went down and crossed the Chikuma River again to take a dip in Togari Onsen's Nozomi no Yu's bath. A fitting finish to memorable day trip.

Tomikura Soba News:
The New Soba Festival will take place at Kajika-tei this year on Sunday November 13th. More at Kajika-tei's website.

Nozomi no Yu's website is here. Make sure to check ahead of time about the availability of their outdoor bath. (It was unfortunately closed when we went.)



Nozomi no Yu's facade


Moon over Iiyama


若若女将の運動会 Li'l Misaki's Sports Day

2011.10.09: 青い目のおもてなし This American’s Omotenashi

And the winner is ... Misaki!

旅館と関係ないエピソード(と言うか、この家族的な、アットホームな旅館にとっては家族の重要なエピソード)ですが、我が娘の美咲ちゃんの保育園運動会が開催されました。4歳の美咲ちゃんが頑張って、走りのイベントで金を取りました!おめでとうございます!

This doesn't have anything to do with our ryokan (unless you consider Kamesei is a family-run, home-away-from-home type inn and this is a major episode for our family), but our daughter Misaki's preschool had their Sports Day. And our 4-year old Misaki ran her best and won the gold in her sprint competition! Congratulations!





甘酸っぱい紅玉りんご: 採りたてで美味しい! Tart Kogyoku Apples -- So Good Right Off the Tree

2011.10.08: 季節 Seasons

Tart kogyoku apples

長野に来てからの毎年の楽しみは紅玉りんごです。長野はリンゴの王国で、色んな種類がありますが、私が一番好きなのは甘酸っぱい紅玉です。そしてリンゴ畑で取り立てで食べたら、一番酸っぱくておいしいです。

紅玉はアップルパイに会うので、この時期は亀清の板長が紅玉入りのアップルパイをデザートで出しております。

10月が終わったら紅玉も終わって、今度はふじりんごが出始まります。今はその甘酸っぱい紅玉のチャンスです。

亀清旅館・上山田温泉から車で5分でりんご農園は沢山あります。私達が付き合っているのは下記です:

宮下農園 Tel (026)275-3356
クラウン農園 Tel (026)275-0929 http://www.sky.hi-ho.ne.jp/crown-farm

紅玉の気が段々と少なくなっている中で、この農家の両方ともちゃんと守っています。数量が限られているのでお早めに!

Back in the States, I grew up with granny smith apples. I always loved their tart flavor. Here in Nagano, we are fortunate to have 'kogyoku' variety of apples. They are tart, just like granny smiths. Kogyoku season is one of the things I always look forward to since moving to Nagano.

Kogyoku is sort of a heritage variety of apples, and is slowly being replaced by newer varieties that are more disease resistant and travel better. But for me, their tart taste makes kogyoku my favorite, and it doesn't get any better than picking one from a tree and eating it right then and there.

Just a quick 5 minute drive from our onsen town, Togura-Kamiyamada, are several apple orchards. At one, Crown Farm, English and German is spoken. The Tobita's still have a few kogyoku trees as well as lots of the new varieties. The kogyoku season runs through October but keep in mind, availability is limited. From November, the orchards shift to their mainstay fuji apples.

Crown Farm Tel (026)275-0929
http://www.sky.hi-ho.ne.jp/crown-farm

In honor of the apple season, our chef here at Kamesei is baking apple pies for our guests for dessert. Right now he is adding kogyoku apples into the mix -- their tartness providing just the perfect touch.








家族風呂工事: 温泉の配管 Building the Family Bath: Connecting the Onsen Pipe

2011.10.07: その他 Miscellaneous

10月末完成目標の家族風呂工事は少しずつ進んでいます。温泉のお湯の配管に繋がる作業しました。これで湯船までお湯が届きます。

上山田温泉株式会社の高井さん、ご指導を有難うございました! 

Construction on Kamsei Ryokan's new family bath is going as scheduled. We are working hard to finish the bath by the end of October.

This part of the project is branching off from the main onsen water pipe to bring the water to the new bath. Special thanks to Takai-san from the onsen company for coaching me!






期間限定: 高村商店の「棚田」味噌 Limited Time Only: Takamura's "Tanada" Miso

2011.10.06: 温泉タウン戸倉上山田 Onsen Town Togura-Kamiyamada

"Tanada" miso

この千曲市の代表味噌倉、高村商店に寄ってみたら、今年の仕込んだ味噌がちょうど出始まりました。その記念として、この地域の自慢の姨捨「田毎の月」棚田のお米を使った「棚田」味噌が登場しました。

期間と数量限定ですが、この時期にしか味えないお味噌。

Here in Chikuma City, the biggest miso maker is Takamura Shoten. I stopped by with some guests and was delighted to here that this year's batch of miso was starting to come available. To mark the occasion, they prepared a special batch using rice from the famous moon-reflecting Obasute terraced rice fields (= "tanada"). It is for sale now in "Tanada" label packages.

"Tanada" miso is only available for a limited time and in very limited amounts. But for a taste of this year's new miso, this is a great opportunity.

高村商店のHPはこちら Click here for Takamura Shoten's website.







上山田温泉のお湯も五色? Kamiyamada Onsen's Color Changing

2011.10.05: 亀清旅館 Kamesei Ryokan

Shirahone? No, Kamiyamada!

我が亀清旅館の大浴場を見たら、吃驚しました: 濁り湯になっていました。通常は透明なお湯が白骨温泉みたいにミルキーになっていました。

外の気温の急な変更で(寒くなってきたなと思いました!)、たまにお湯がこうやって曇ります。自然な現象です。

Our main onsen bath here at Kamesei Ryokan had a surprise for us today -- the onsen water had turned milky. Normally, Kamiyamada Onsen's hot sring water is clear, but today it was cloudy, like Shirahone Onsen and the other 'milky-white' onsens.

If the outside temperature changes drastically, our onsen bath sometimes becomes cloudy like this. It's a natural reaction to the atmospheric change. My body was certainly reacting to the drop in temperatures lately -- apparently the onsen does, too!




旅館の命? 畳工場見学 Tatami Mats are Indispensable for Ryokans -- Taking a Factory Tour

2011.10.04: 青い目のおもてなし This American’s Omotenashi

戸倉上山田青年部x畳工場見学

この2年間は私がこの戸倉上山田温泉の旅館組合の青年部長でございます。主の企画は「温泉塾」。月一回ぐらいなペースで我々青年部が地域連携をしながら、勉強すると言うテーマ。10月分は旅館の必須に部分について:畳。

畳は旅館にとって必須かもしれないけど、私たち青年部にはあまりにも【当たり前】ですから、逆に認識されていない部分もあります。

昨日は戸倉上山田から県の青年部のスポンサーとなっているトータル畳社の松本工場を見学しました。営業担当の小野さんと深沢社長が親切に畳の「イ・ロ・ハ」の「イ」から説明して頂いて、そして実際に作らせて頂きました。

お陰様で我々青年部が畳に関して更に深い関心を持つようになりました。本当にありがとうございました!
(手配して頂いたホテルプラトンのHideoさん、ご苦労様でした。)

For these 2 years, it is my turn to be the leader of the Togura Kamiyamada Ryokan Association's Junior Association. My main project is to hold a series of study sessions called "Onsen Jook". This month's is on a topic that is intrinsic to our ryokans: tatami mats.

While tatami mats may be an indispensable part of our inns, we often take them for granted and overlook them. So yesterday, the other junior innkeepers and I drove to Matsumoto to take a tour of Total Tatami Service's factory. Our sales rep, Ono-san and the owner graciously explained all about tatami and then even let us experience making real mats.

It certainly deepened our appreciation for tatami. I am ever so grateful for Ono-san and her boss for their kindness. And to my cohort, Hideo-san for setting everything up.





北アルプスが既に白い Snow Already on the Northern Alps

2011.10.03: 季節 Seasons

Snow-covered Hakuba and the Northern Alps, with the Sai River in the foreground.

松本への出張の帰り、
高速道路から撮った写真。
北アルプスは既に雪で白くなっていました。
寒い訳だ!
さっすが白い馬(白馬)!

On the way back from a biz trip in Matsumoto,
Picture taken from the Nagano-do freeway.
The Alps are already covered in snow!
I thought it had been getting cold at night.
'Hakuba' means "white horse". The mountain is living up to its name!





パナマ運河の作った人たちの気持ちが分かる This is what digging the Panama Canal must have been like

2011.10.02: その他 Miscellaneous

Diggin' the canal

亀清の工事中の家族風呂の為に電気や給水配管などをまず持って来なきゃ。土の中に埋めるためまず掘らんとアカン。息子を一緒にずくを出して、溝を掘りました。暑い中で大変でした。パナマ運河の作った人達の気持ちが分かる。(大げさ!)

英語の言われがあるけど: 血と汗と涙。今回の作業はまさにそう。
汗は掘る作業から、
血は蚊から、
涙は排水管につなげようと思った配管は排水じゃなくて、給水だったので、いきなりに噴水が出た時。
まあ、日本語の言われ: 失敗しながら。

10月末完成目標向かって必死です。

The construction of Kamesei's new family bath continues. For the power and water, I wanted to run the lines through the ground, necessitating a ditch. Son Andy and I went to work and powered through the hot weather and hard ground to dig the ditch. Now I know what the guys digging the Panama Canal must have felt like. (Well, maybe just a little.)

As the saying goes, 'blood, sweat and tears'.
The sweat was from doing all the digging work in the hot sun.
The blood was from all the mosquitoes.
And the tears were from when I tapped into what I thought was a drain pipe and turned out to be a live water pipe. Only part of the water streaming down my face was from the impromptu water fountain that resulted.

Needless to say I am having to call in a pro to help me connect the new bath's shower drain to the drain pipes. Japan has a saying, "Shippai shinagara", loosely translated, 'making progress while making mistakes'.

We're still trying to target a end-of-October completion date for the new family bath. Stay tuned.