作務衣でボーリング? Bowling in a samue?

2010.01.31: 青い目のおもてなし This American’s Omotenashi

What kind of idiot wears a samue bowling? At least they had 30cm shoes!

家族で遊びにお出かけして来ました。上田市でボーリングしてきました。急いで行ったから作務衣から着替える暇もなくて、最初は作務衣ののままで始まりました。あんまりにも変で、すぐに普段着に着替えました。(まあ、私の場合は普段着=作務衣・・・)

Our family went out for some fun today -- bowling in nearby Ueda City. We were in such a rush to take off, that I didn't get time to change out of my samue, the traditional Japanese working clothes that I usually wear. After bowling a frame in the samue, I realized how weird it looked and changed into street clothes. (In my case, though, most days my street clothes ARE the samue...)



本気のKenちゃん


Mari helping Misaki with her 1st Bowling


上からの戸倉上山田温泉の光り Togura Kamiyamada Onsen's Lights from Above

2010.01.31: 温泉タウン戸倉上山田 Onsen Town Togura-Kamiyamada

今回の満月が特に綺麗なので、戸倉上山田の温泉街はと月様の光でどんな感じかなと思って、お客さんを連れて町の裏の城山に連れて行きました。坂を上る価値がありました!善光寺別院のお寺からの眺めが最高でした。温泉のネオン街やそれぞれの旅館、真ん中は千曲川が流れて、お月様の光で川の向こう側の五里ヶ峰のシルエット、とにかく素敵でした。
姨捨からの善光寺平の夜景も綺麗ですが、城山から見る戸倉上山田温泉の夜景も真下のようで、また感動的です。戸倉上山田温泉にお泊りになれば、城山も上ってみて下さい。

With this month's full moon being so pretty, I wanted to see what our onsen town of Togura Kamiyamada looked like from above. So I took a couple of guests and drove up to the Zenkoji Branch Temple on Jyo-Yama, the hill behind our town. With the neon light district, the lights of the ryokan buildings, the Chikuma River running through the middle, and the hills on the far side silhouted by the moonlight, it was a spectacular scene.





大月の月見風呂 Big Moon Viewing Bath

2010.01.30: その他 Miscellaneous

Andy and Kenny enjoying our moonviewing bath

今回の満月は一年間の月と地球の最低距離だそうです。夜はちょうど晴れていて、今晩の露天風呂はただの月見風呂じゃなくて、「大月」の月見風呂でした。お客様が大喜びでした。この「百年風呂」露天風呂を作った時に、屋根を付けた方が良いかどうか悩みました。この様に温泉に入りながらお月様の光も浴びれる時に、屋根をつけなくて正解だと分かります。

This month is when the earth and the moon are their closest, so tonight's full moon was extra large and bright. Our guests were delighted to be able to soak in our outdoor bath while bathing in the moonlight.
When I built this outdoor bath, the "100-Year Bath", I debated on whether or not to build a roof for it. On nights like this, with the moonlight streaming in, I realize that I made the right decision to leave the bath open to the sky!

信州戸倉上山田温泉の亀清旅館のHPはこちらClick here for the website for Kamesei Ryokan in Nagano.





一日のインターン One-Day Intern

2010.01.29: 活動 Activities

Mr. Immersion -- Tom-san.

日本語を習っているTomさんはUKから来て、野沢温泉でスキーしたり、妻籠・馬込の間の中山道を歩いたりするために長野にお越しになりました。亀清に二泊もお泊りになった。その開いている一日にどうするか、色々なアドバイスをしながら、彼の要望を聞きながら、彼がとにかくこの一日は遠く行かないで、この町と触れ合いたいと。そこで、りんご農園をやっている英語を喋れる友人に連絡を取って、一日のインターンを手配しました。農家の飛田さんは作業に手伝ってもらえて、国際交流も出来て、嬉しかったし、Tomさんはこの日本の田舎の生活をたっぷり味わえて、嬉しかったです。夜は私抜きでお神楽の練習にも行かれて、そこでも盛り上がったようです。私は会議があって、参加が出来なかった。あとで、お神楽の会長さんに「大丈夫でしたか?」と聞いたら、皆が外国じんにもう慣れたから、楽しかったと。(それは私にとっては重要なポイントです。亀清旅館もそうだし、お神楽もそうですし、この戸倉上山田温泉のインバウンドもそうです:タイラーより大きくなって欲しいです。)

まあ、Tomさんほど熱心でこの地に入りたい人はめったにしかいないと思うからこういう一日インターンは頻繁に出来ないだろうけど、要望があれば喜んで対応は出来まっせ!

Tom came from to Nagano from the UK, to go skiing at Nozawa Onsen as well as to walk to Nakasendo road from Tsumago to Magome. In between, he spent 2 nights here at Kamesei Ryokan. For that middle day, he and I discussed various options. As I listened to him, I realized he was tired of trains and travelling, and wanted to connect with the local town here. So I called up my buddy Tobita-san who runs a local apple orchard and speaks a bit of English, and set up a 1-day internship for Tom. Tobita-san was grateful to have the help, and he enjoyed the cross-cultural sharing. Tom-san told me he thoroughly enjoyed immersing himself in the local culture. That night, the two of them even went to the okagura lion dance practice together. Due a meeting, I couldn't attend. Later I asked the troupe leader if things went okay without me, and he said everyone is used to foreigners, and that they all had a blast. (That's actually key for me. It is my desire that Kamesei Ryokan as well as the lion dance guys and Togura Kamiyamada's "Inbound" efforts are bigger than just me!)
I doubt we'll have very many guests that are as keen as Tom was for connecting with the locals, but should the occasion arise, I'll be happy to set up another 1-day Intern for anyone else in the future!





隠れ三味線 Shamisen Behind The Screen

2010.01.28: 長野に来る理由 Reasons to Come to Nagano

長野県旅館組合青年部
新年会
若旦那40人。
つまり、「和」のプロ40人。
40人ともは松本のHikariyaの和に感心しました。
和のプロを和で驚かせる秘密は?

写真を良く見て下さい。

ただの屏風。屏風の奥から三味線の音楽が流れてくる。「あっ、CDでBGMを流している」と思った。しかし、よく見たら、右側の影が動いている。着物と三味線の棒の動き。「生演奏だ!」と気付きました。

多分、私達だったら、態々人を呼んで、態々三味線を弾いてもらったら、せっかくだから舞台か何かの上で、皆が見れるようなところでやってもらう。

屏風の奥で隠すなんって、私達が感心しました。渋い!

長野県で業界で最も憧れている明神館の斉藤さん達が松本城の近くに去年にオープンしたHikariya。東館が日本食、西館がフレンチ。古き名門商家が生まれ変わって、こんなにお洒落なお店になりました。

長野県の宝物の1つ。

我々旅館若旦那の皆が納得しました。

What does it take to impress 40 ryokan proprietors? Myself and the other members of Nagano's ryokan junior association found out during our annual New Year dinner today. We are arguably professionals when it comes to "traditional Japan". However, every one of us was mesmerized by the restaurant where we gathered, Matsumoto's Hikariya.

When we walked in to the banquet room, we noticed a traditional folding screen in one corner, with the melodious sounds of shamisen coming from behind it. We initially assumed there was a CD player behind it playing background music. But upon closer inspection, on the right side we could make out a shadow moving on the wall, the shadow from a kimono sleeve and the end of a shamisen. It was a live performance, hidden behind the screen!

Man, if I were to go to the trouble of arranging for a musician to come and play shamisen live, you could bet your bottom dollar I'd have her on a stage for everyone to see. So we were so impressed by Hikariya's subtle style.

The restaurant is in a renovated merchant's house, with the east wing being Japanese cuisine, and the west French.

Hikariya is one of Nagano's treasures! Us ryokan proprietors can certainly attest!

Click here for the website of HikariyaのHPはこちら



Hikariya's tokonoma decoration


駐車場案内看板+(遊び心の)アルファ A Parking Sign + (a little fun) Alpha

2010.01.27: 亀清旅館 Kamesei Ryokan

亀清旅館の宿の前に駐車場があります。でも、なぜか、お客さんに「駐車場はどこか?」とよく聞かれます。考えたら、駐車場の案内看板が無いのはいけないのかと。そのきかけで、息子達と看板作りという工作が始まりました。
ただの駐車場案内看板だけじゃつまらないから、ちょっと遊び心を書けました。まず、亀清の前に通る道は「公園通り」ですが、その名前があまり知られていないそうです。町の道看板を真似して、「公園通り」という看板も作りました。
次は、私の地元のシアトルのFremontというご近状に面白い看板があるのでそれも真似してみました。その近状は宇宙の中心だと勝手に決めました。「Fremont Center of the Universe」って画像検索をすれば分かると思います「海は何メーター」、「パリーは何キロメーター」などの印がある。それを真似して、亀清の駐車場看板に「カラコロ足湯は200m」や「善光寺は30km」、「シアトルは7980km」も。楽しい作品が出来ました。
亀清の前を通れば、是非見てください!

Even though we park our guests cars right in front of the entrance to our inn here at Kamesei Ryokan, often guests ask "Where's the parking lot?" I realized, perhaps the problem is we don't have a "P" (Parking) sign. So the boys and I started a little craft project: a Parking sign. And not just any ol' Parking sign -- one with a bit of flair.

First of all, the road that passes in front of Kamesei is technically called Koen Dori (=Park Road). But not many people seem to know its name. So we made a "Koen Dori" street sign, patterned after the city's official ones.

Next, we took some inspiration from the Fremont neighborhood of my home town, Seattle. The people there decided they were the center of the entire universe. If you do an images search for "Fremont Center of the Universe", you'll see the sign they made, with direction arrows to Paris, Timbuktu, and so on. We copied that idea, and made arrows to such places as the Foot Bath (200m), Zenkoji Temple (30km), as well as Seattle (7,980km).
So if you pass in front of Kamesei, please see our new sign. And hopefully our guests will know where the parking is (as well as how far Seattle is!).





タイラーvs。SBCラジオの俳句番組 Me vs. SBC Radio's Haiku Program

2010.01.26: メディア Media

露天風呂
顔にちらちら
雪が降る

如何でしょうか?私の「長野」のこの「旬」の俳句作品です。

今日はSBCラジオに誘われて、俳句の番組の収録してきました。信大の工学部学生、中国生まれの王さんとブラジル生まれのYukiさんと三人で、俳句プロの東福寺先生に色々と教えていただきました。そして、俳句を通して、日・米・中・伯関係で盛り上がりました。お正月の習慣とか、男料理(アメリカの負け?)など、それぞれの国の違いってお話をしたら、かなり面白かった。

私が小学生の時に、俳句を習った事があります。もちろん、アメリカで。確かに3年生の時に。英語で5-7-5。その時からは俳句の魅力は感じました。今日、東福寺先生により深く教えて頂いて、有難うございました!放送は楽しみにしています。

In the outdoor bath
Lightly falling on my face
Snow falls from the sky

What do you think? That is my attempt at a Nagano-themed, seasonal haiku poem.

Today I went to the studios of SBC Radio to partake in a special haiku program. Oh-san, an engineering student at Shinshu U. originally from China, and Yuki-san, born in Brazil, and I were taught some of the intricacies of haiku by Tofukuji-sensei. And through haiku, we compared the traditions and cultures of Japan, China, Brazil and America.

Back when I was in grade school, I remember studying haiku once. I'm pretty sure it was in third grade. I was really drawn to the challenge of squeezing an image into the 5-7-5, and continue to be fascinated by haiku today. It was a treat to have Tofukuji-sensei explain more about the world of haiku.

I am looking forward to hearing the radio broadcast!

SBCラジオのHPはこちらClick here for SBC's website

東福寺先生の俳句HPはこちらClick here for Tofukuji-sensei's haiku website.





Winter in Nagano: Tyler's Top 10 Things to Do

2010.01.25: 長野に来る理由 Reasons to Come to Nagano

#1 About to take off skiing at Shiga Kogen

以前は信州の冬の楽しみ方、タイラーのトップ10を日本語で提供いたしました。今日は英語で(写真付き!)。

Here in Nagano, it gets so cold in the winter that you don't want to go out. So what do Nagano-ites do for fun in the winter? Well, here's Tyler's Top 10 Things to Do in Nagano in the Winter:

1. Ski
Embrace the cold, and get out and enjoy Nagano's spectacular nature. One of the best ways to do that is to go skiing in the mountains. With so many world class, Olympic level ski resorts in the prefecture, it would be a shame not to take advantage and hit the slopes. Of all the ski areas in Nagano, I personally like Shiga Kogen to the east of Nagano City, for its remote mountainous beauty. I took our sons there after New Years. We skied around for half a day, and barely scratched the surface of what Shiga has to offer.
Shiga Kogen ski info here

2.Snowshoeing
If you prefer to enjoy the snowy scenery at a slower pace than skiing, then snowshoeing is the way to go. You can go cross country skiing or snowshoeing at various places throughout Nagano, but I personally suggest Togakushi. Mirror Pond, the Forest Reserve, and the mystical path to the Inner Shrine, Okusha, which is lined by massive cedar trees. The rich hues of the cedar bark contrasts so beautifully with the snow.
Togakushi's winter info is here。 Also, don't miss Togakushi's white season English pamphlet.

3.Ice Skating
For people who want to do some winter sports activities but the weather isn't cooperating or it's too much trouble to go to the mountains, how about ice skating? During New Years, our family went skating at M-Wave in Nagano City. It was a lot of fun, and they even had skates to fit me -- 30cm!
M-Wave's website is here

4.Onsen
If Nagano's cold winter is getting to you, how about going for a soak in an onsen hot spring mineral bath? Nagano is blessed with scores of onsens throughout the prefecture. Many have outdoor baths that let you enjoy views of the mountains as you soak in the onsen. Norikura's milky white onsen, Azumaya Kogen Hotel near Mount Asama, and Maguse Onsen who's outdoor bath features views of the northern Alps are just a few. Last month, our family went to the Takayama Onsen area and enjoyed the views from one of the baths at Shichimi Onsen.
Shichimi Onsen's Koyokan website is here

5. Snow Monkeys
"Walk a half an hour through the snow to some some monkey soaking in an onsen?" Well, it wouldn't be a snow monkey if there weren't any snow! This is the best time of the year to see the monkeys of Jigokudani Wild Monkey Park in their natural environment, escaping the snow and cold by bathing in the onsen. And I promise: the blissful look of the monkeys' faces as they soak in the onsen will be worth the trip.
Jigokudani's Snow Monkey website is here

6. Strawberry Picking
I know what you're thinking -- "Strawberry picking in the winter? Isn't that done in July out at a strawberry field?" Well, here in Japan, the berries are grown in greenhouses, making winter prime picking time. It's also a way we Nagano-ites escape the cold, by going inside a heated greenhouse. And you get to eat yummy berries to boot! Note: Strawberry picking in Japan involves paying to enter the greenhouse, where they give you a bowl of sweet condensed milk for berry dipping, and you get to pick and eat to your heart's (and tummy's) content. Berries for taking home are sold separately. One such greenhouse is Agri-Park, near Yashiro Station on the Shinano Railway line.Click here for Agri-Park's website.

7. Art & History Museums
Winter also presents an opportunity to visit those museums you had always wanted to check out. You get to tweak your artistic and/or historical interests, plus its warm inside the museums! Right across the street from Agri-Park (the strawberry place mentioned in #6 above), is the Nagano Prefectural History Museum, as well as the Mori Shogunzuka Keyhole tomb. Check out more about these two underrated historical centers here.

8. "Taiken" Experiences
As in #7 above, if you want to get in from the cold and do some cultural-related activity, winter is a great time to do so. Here in Nagano, there's everything from soba noodle making to ninja lessons. Two "experiences" that I suggest are traditional silk weaving for adults (Koiwai Tsumugi in Ueda) and prehistoric Jomon era craft making for kids (Sarashina Ancient Experiences Park in Chikuma City)

9. Hot Pot Cuisine
Hot Pot meals, or "o-nabe" as they are known in Japanese, are popular throughout Asia. But hot pots are a perfect match for Nagano's cold winters, especially if the ingredients include some local favorites, such as deer meat or wild boar meat. Such only-in-Nagano o-nabe are available at Gotoku-tei restaurant near Nagano Station. Click here for Gotoku-tei's website

10. Azumino Wasabi Fields
The Daio Wasabi Farm in Azumino is pretty special. Wasabi only grows in the cleanest, clearest water. Azumino has that, in rivers fed by run-off from the Japanese Alps. On top of the pristine water, you have Azumino's quiet, natural setting. Amidst all of this, and with the backdrop of the Alps, you have the wasabi fields laid out in rows with streams running through them. The farm is rewarding to see any time of the year, but in winter, when the leaves are off the trees, the bare branches give an even stronger contrast to the green of the wasabi plants and the steel grey of the riverlets. (If you go, make sure to try the wasabi soft serve ice cream, too!). Daio's website is here.

There you have it. If you try all 10 of these winter activities and are left wanting more, let me know and I'll be glad to provide a list of runners-up! Come and experience what Nagano has to offer this winter.



#2 Togakushi starting to get snow


#3 Our Family Ice Skating at M-Wave


#4 Shichi Onsen's open air bath with snowy view


#5 Blissful Snow Monkey


#6 Strawberry picking in a warm greenhouse


7. 1600-year old Mori keyhole tomb


#8 "Experiencing" silk weaving


#9 Gotoku-tei's Nagano nabe


室賀峠を越えて、ささらの湯へ Over Muroga Pass to Sasara no Yu

2010.01.24: 長野に来る理由 Reasons to Come to Nagano

つるつるしているAndyとKenny

上田市の奥の隅に室賀温泉があります。そこの「ささらの湯」の日帰り施設で、室賀の話題の美肌のお湯の体験が出来ます。上山田温泉を含めて、あちらこちらの温泉は「美人の湯」とか言います。しかし、この室賀温泉のお湯で、肌は本当にすべすべになります。不思議ぐらいに肌にいい感じします。
今日は女将社長が留守番してくれて、家族で行ってきました。戸倉上山田から意外に近いです。隣の坂城町から上がって、室賀峠を越えて、降りて、左側に有ります。ささらの湯はお風呂以外、地元で採れた作物のの産物直売所も、手打ちそばのレストラン、地元の作家の作品展示ギャラリーもあります。
しかし、ささらの湯の一番の魅力はやはり、室賀温泉のお湯である。月毎交換になる男女別々の内湯の外は岩か樽の露天風呂。私は亀清旅館の露天風呂を作った時に、その岩風呂を参考にしました。お風呂は100%かけ流しだそうです。温泉の量はたっぷりあるようで、温泉スタンドもあります。今回にささらの湯に入った時に、一緒に入っていた人は群馬県から来たと仰いました。室賀温泉のお湯はやはり、県外から来る価値がある。「上山田のお湯とどう違うか」と聞かれました。温度は似ていますが、室賀温泉は肌に本当につるつるする。その代わり、上山田の方は硫黄の香りはします。(個人的に、その方が好きです。)
では、戸倉上山田温泉の行きか帰りの途中でもう一つな温泉に立ち寄りたいなら、室賀温泉は良いです!

Hidden away in the back of one of Ueda City's nooks and crannies is Muroga Onsen. Their theme is "Mihada no yu", or "mineral water for beautiful skin". Lots of onsens (including ours, Kamiyamada) advertise the beautifying effects of their mineral waters, but I have to say that Muroga's onsen water does leave your skin feeling slippery smooth.
Our boss offered to watch over Kamesei Ryokan for the afternoon, so our family went for a drive today to Sasara no yu, the daytrip bathing facility at Muroga. We drove over Muroga Pass, saving us the drive around. Sasara no yu, besides the baths, has a farmers market, soba restaurant, and art gallery. So guests can purchase local produce, eat hand-made soba, and enjoy the works of local artists. But the main draw is the mineral water. There are separate baths for men and women with a rock bath outside one, and a wood barrel bath outside the other. (The sides are changed once a month.) The baths are constantly flowing -- no recirculating. Muroga's onsen apparently has a healthy volume of water -- they even have an onsen stand (kind of like a gas stand but you pump onsen water instead of gas).
Today, some of our fellow bathers had come from neighboring Gunma Prefecture. Muroga's mineral water's smooth skin effects are such that it makes it worth it to come from afar. The Gunma guys asked us how Kamiyamada's mineral water differs. Both are clear (uncolored), and the temperatures are pretty much the same, but Muroga's definitely gives your skin a softer, more slippery feel. However, Kamiyamada's has a more prominent sulfur smell making it the more onsen-like in my opinion.
So if you are looking for a different onsen to try on the way to or from Togura Kamiyamada, I suggest checking out Muroga!

室賀は上田駅から車かバスで30分。(バスは平日に6便、休日に2便。)Muroga is 30 minutes by car or bus from Ueda Station. The bus runs 6 times on weekdays, 2 on holidays.
ささらの湯のHPはこちら。Click here for Sasara no Yu's website.



くるみそば@ささらの湯 うまい!


打ち立ての手打ちそば


今朝もまた雪景色を手配しました。

2010.01.23: 亀清旅館 Kamesei Ryokan

今朝に起きたら、外はまた白くなっていました。一昨日ぐらいは最高温度11度もありましたが、雪がついに戻りました。しかし、亀清の中庭は雪景色モードの時、うんと綺麗です。お客様が喜んでくれました。

This morning when I woke up and looked outside, I was surprised to see everything covered in white. We just had a high temperature of 11 deg C a couple of days ago, but the snow came back quickly. I have to say, Kamesei's naka-niwa garden sure looks pretty with its blanket of snow. Our guests were delighted with the beautiful scenery.