Chitose's famous Tsukimi no Yu bath at Matsunoyama Onsen
長野県のトップ100温泉の調査の難し所の一つは県境を少し超えたら良い温泉もあるのです。長野県はもちろん、温泉で恵まれている国だが、山の一つの違いだけで周辺に他にも、例えば群馬の草津や万座、岐阜県の奥飛騨温泉、富山県の宇奈月温泉、新潟の赤倉温泉の様な本格的な温泉があります。先日長野県の栄村を超えて、新潟県の松之山温泉に行ってみてきました。
松之山温泉は日本三大薬湯の一つです。湯質は塩っぽいで油の臭いがする、特徴的なお湯。（入ってみたら、その「三大薬湯」の事は納得しました！）そして、新潟・長野のこの辺は「雪国」と呼ばれています。今回行ったのは正に雪の世界で、途中の大雪の中の運転で「この先は何があるのだろ」と言う不安でしたが、山奥にこんなに本格的な温泉があって、嬉しかったです。
今回はこの戸倉上山田温泉の旅館青年部の2年に一度の研修会で行って、泊まったのは全国レベルで活動なされている若旦那、柳さんの宿、「ひなの宿ちとせ」に泊まった。松之山温泉を代表できる「月見の湯」のお風呂に入らせて頂きました。大雪の中の屋根付きの露天風呂。日本の温泉文化はやはりいいね！
松之山温泉は我が戸倉上山田温泉から約100㎞、車で約2時間15分です。松之山の代表のイベント、「むこ投げ・すみ塗り」奇祭は毎年1月15日です。それを見てから、長野県の冬を代表して、同じ1月15日に行う野沢温泉の火の祭りも見れます。
In researching Nagano Prefecture's Top 100 Onsens, one thing that I've realized is that several outstanding onsens are being left out because of the arbitrary line made up by the prefectural border. Literally just one mountain away from Nagano are such famous onsens areas such as Kusatsu and Manza in Gunma Prefecture, Oku-Hida in Gifu, Unazuki in Toyama, and Akakura in Niigata. The other day, I went for the first time to one other such neighboring onsen: Matsunoyama in Niigata.
Matsunoyama Onsen is known as one of Japan's Top 3 Medicinal Onsens, and it's mineral waters have a strong salt taste as well as a mild oilly aroma -- definitely unique enough to justify its Top 3 designation to me.
This area of the Niigata/ Nagano border is considered to be Snow Country, and it certainly lived up to its billing the day I went. Driving through thickly falling snow, we were a little nervous that there would be something worthwhile at the end of the road.
And we were not disappointed. I went with my fellow junior innkeepers from our onsen town Togura-Kamiyamada and we stayed at the inn of Yanagi-san, active on the national junior innkeepers association. His inn, Chitose, features "Tsukimi no Yu", an outdoor bath with a hefty roof over it. Practically embedded in deep snow, this one bath seems to represent the best of all of Matsunoyama Onsen.
Matsunoyama is approximately 100km from our onsen town, Togura-Kamiyamada and is approx. 2 hours and 15 minutes by car. Or by train, 25 minutes to Nagano Station and then almost 2 hours on the leisurely JR Iiyama Line to Tsunan Station.
Matsunoyama is also famous for its 'Muko-nage, Sumi-nuri' festival held annually every January 15th. Sons of neighboring towns who have taken local lasses away in marriage (= 'Muko') are thrown ("nage") off a hill, then everyone takes charcoal ("Sumi") and rubs ("nuri") it on everyone else. With a little bit of planning, this festival can be enjoyed in conjunction with Nagano's most famous winter-time festival, Nozawa Onsen's fire festival, held on the evening of January 15th.
